TomsGarage
Active Member
- TomsGarage Active Member
Nice looks good! I'm planning on just doing a straight pipe exhaust dump, or something like this.
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V1 BAR-AIR's build up in Buffalo N.Y.
TomsGarage
Active Member
- TomsGarage Active Member
I'm using the turbo LNF but otherwise I would use the one with the kit for sure. Do you actually need a cat? Do they sniffer test or just check for engine lights?
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
- BAR-AIR Well-Known Member
NY requires the actual catalytic converter for the year of the engine being used. But here is the interesting part they can only do a physical inspection that it is there. (They don't test it because it is no longer a Cobalt, so what would be the test parameters?) Crazy but true -they do test for a sealed gas cap though.
I'm not writing the rules I'm just trying to follow them.
I'm not writing the rules I'm just trying to follow them.
TomsGarage
Active Member
- TomsGarage Active Member
Ah, so you could basically just put in a gutted cat and have no problem passing
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
- BAR-AIR Well-Known Member
Well I think this is about the sixth revision of the exhaust/super cooler mount for "Blue". I think this one will work pretty well. It pushes the muffler a little further back which opens up a lot more area (picture doesn't show it that well) to get air flowing through the cooler and around the catalytic converter and the muffler. Still need to work on ducting.
Mufflers weight is supported with tabs and insulators. The super cooler has rubber grommets.
Just need to weld the two lower super cooler brackets to the new cross member I will most likely drill the upper members into the existing frame then run a bolt in each(wanted to get the muffler orientation right before attaching the cooler mount). Then I'll cut the exhaust stacks pretty much like the blue tape.
Justinreed7
I like anything that goes fast
- Justinreed7 I like anything that goes fast
I'm questioning the placement of your heat exchanger. Mounting it over the exhaust manifold where temps can reach 1500 degrees probably isn't the best way to dissipate heat.
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
- BAR-AIR Well-Known Member
Good Morning,
You are absolutely correct with the placement of the cooler over the exhaust. So here is my thought process, Lonny's original cooler was in the same position and it was nearly 1/3 of the size of my cooler. His cooler has worked well even after disconnecting the fan for it and providing no additional air ducting). The other thing is with the combined mount for the cooler and the exhaust I was able to move the muffler back and changed the angle of it. (Not a huge difference, but what it did for me is give me additional room to run a plenum from the drivers side of the car directly under the cooler, ducting the air through the cooler and out the top). Another thing I have been working on is moving the main fuse block from the engine compartment to the front of the car -just a matter of reducing the wiring from the BCM to the fuseblock and extending the engine harness. (There is a void on the passengers side of the car above the passengers foot well -Lonny's car has the HVAC equipment there.) If I can get it to work the main fuse block would be under the bonnet(hood) out of the elements and it would open up the engine compartment for a full set of ducting to the engine and cooler. So, short answer placement not optimal but functional PLUSes short hose runs, solid mount, larger cooler, and the ability to run cool air ducting to it. Also running the lines under the car was not an option for me. MINUSes heat from the exhaust when the car is not moving lack of air flow.
Bruce
You are absolutely correct with the placement of the cooler over the exhaust. So here is my thought process, Lonny's original cooler was in the same position and it was nearly 1/3 of the size of my cooler. His cooler has worked well even after disconnecting the fan for it and providing no additional air ducting). The other thing is with the combined mount for the cooler and the exhaust I was able to move the muffler back and changed the angle of it. (Not a huge difference, but what it did for me is give me additional room to run a plenum from the drivers side of the car directly under the cooler, ducting the air through the cooler and out the top). Another thing I have been working on is moving the main fuse block from the engine compartment to the front of the car -just a matter of reducing the wiring from the BCM to the fuseblock and extending the engine harness. (There is a void on the passengers side of the car above the passengers foot well -Lonny's car has the HVAC equipment there.) If I can get it to work the main fuse block would be under the bonnet(hood) out of the elements and it would open up the engine compartment for a full set of ducting to the engine and cooler. So, short answer placement not optimal but functional PLUSes short hose runs, solid mount, larger cooler, and the ability to run cool air ducting to it. Also running the lines under the car was not an option for me. MINUSes heat from the exhaust when the car is not moving lack of air flow.
Bruce
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
- BAR-AIR Well-Known Member
Good Evening,
Hope all had a good Thanksgiving. Here is the last mock up for the windshield and upper tubes. Went back to the straight tubes over head just didn't like the side profile with the bent tubes. Also machined out slots in the tube below the windshield so the windshield wipers could be mounted tighter (actually in) to the tube. (Using the cable style wipers). Should be able to get it all welded together later next week. Then when I get some time I'll get back into the electrical still don't have the computers talking I can run everything manually with bypass switches (pumps, throttle,starter etc...). Getting very close !!!
Hope all had a good Thanksgiving. Here is the last mock up for the windshield and upper tubes. Went back to the straight tubes over head just didn't like the side profile with the bent tubes. Also machined out slots in the tube below the windshield so the windshield wipers could be mounted tighter (actually in) to the tube. (Using the cable style wipers). Should be able to get it all welded together later next week. Then when I get some time I'll get back into the electrical still don't have the computers talking I can run everything manually with bypass switches (pumps, throttle,starter etc...). Getting very close !!!
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
- BAR-AIR Well-Known Member
Good Afternoon,
Was just doing a rework of the wiring on "BLUE". Never really liked the way it layed in the engine compartment. Then notice the lower cooling line on my supercooler was seeping (supercooler needs to come off to get to it "$&@?"). So I ended up pulling the wiring harness back to give some extra room. Royal pain with all the harnesses connected together. So torn in all out. Reworked into 4 completely separate harnesses (engine, Chassis, dash and headlight).
Engine is a separate unit already. Just don't wrap it into the other harnesses. That way if you need to drop the engine you can all in one unit without disconnecting all the plugs or removing the harness.
Chassis harness ran the 3 additional blocks in a single harness the only difference is the connection to the dash harness. Actually took an 8 plug connector and wired that into the harness. (You could use the original plug from the donor if you don't cut the wires too short). Makes life so much easier making that into two separate harnesses. Just the size and trying to work that into the car.
Dash harness same as before just with the connector to join the Chassis and Dash harness (I placed the connector right at the brake booster that keeps the dash harness pretty small). I'm not wrapping the two harnesses together. So they can be pulled separately.
Headlight harness just 8 or 9 wires not really connected anywhere except at the fuse block and the actual lights, horn, wiper washer (NY thing!). Just seamed easier to run it as a separate unit.
After reworking it is a little more work adding the connector and keeping everything separated but I think it will be well worth it in the long run.
ENGINE HARNESS - 1 black block in the fuse block 1 plug to ECU 1 plug to TCU.
Note: looped the fan wire into the fuse block with a connector to separate that from the engine harness
CHASSIS HARNESS - 2 white rectangle blocks and 1 grey block in the fuse block that runs to the BCM with the red rectangular block and 1 blue plug
Added the fan wire to this harness with an additional connector in the fuse block.
DASH HARNESS - 1 white rectangular block and 1 plug in the BCM
HEADLIGHT HARNESS - 1 white block in the fuse block
Long winded sorry...
Bruce
Was just doing a rework of the wiring on "BLUE". Never really liked the way it layed in the engine compartment. Then notice the lower cooling line on my supercooler was seeping (supercooler needs to come off to get to it "$&@?"). So I ended up pulling the wiring harness back to give some extra room. Royal pain with all the harnesses connected together. So torn in all out. Reworked into 4 completely separate harnesses (engine, Chassis, dash and headlight).
Engine is a separate unit already. Just don't wrap it into the other harnesses. That way if you need to drop the engine you can all in one unit without disconnecting all the plugs or removing the harness.
Chassis harness ran the 3 additional blocks in a single harness the only difference is the connection to the dash harness. Actually took an 8 plug connector and wired that into the harness. (You could use the original plug from the donor if you don't cut the wires too short). Makes life so much easier making that into two separate harnesses. Just the size and trying to work that into the car.
Dash harness same as before just with the connector to join the Chassis and Dash harness (I placed the connector right at the brake booster that keeps the dash harness pretty small). I'm not wrapping the two harnesses together. So they can be pulled separately.
Headlight harness just 8 or 9 wires not really connected anywhere except at the fuse block and the actual lights, horn, wiper washer (NY thing!). Just seamed easier to run it as a separate unit.
After reworking it is a little more work adding the connector and keeping everything separated but I think it will be well worth it in the long run.
ENGINE HARNESS - 1 black block in the fuse block 1 plug to ECU 1 plug to TCU.
Note: looped the fan wire into the fuse block with a connector to separate that from the engine harness
CHASSIS HARNESS - 2 white rectangle blocks and 1 grey block in the fuse block that runs to the BCM with the red rectangular block and 1 blue plug
Added the fan wire to this harness with an additional connector in the fuse block.
DASH HARNESS - 1 white rectangular block and 1 plug in the BCM
HEADLIGHT HARNESS - 1 white block in the fuse block
Long winded sorry...
Bruce
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
- BAR-AIR Well-Known Member
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
- BAR-AIR Well-Known Member
Good Morning,
The hydraulic brake lines where made up at a local hydraulics company in the Buffalo area "Ferry Hydraulic" they specialized in heavy equipment hose replacements and plow hoses this time of year. There are quite a few company's advertising custom lines on the internet for both SS and rubber lines all you are looking for is a stock Cobalt connector (M10x1 inverted) and a banjo fitting on the other end at 28" total length -makes it slightly long but 26" works but slightly short. I have used these guys in the past and they have never steered me wrong. As for the marine hoses same company suggests the marine lines for our application I never even looked at the temp ratings until you mentioned it, they didn't think it would be an issue but I guess only time will tell.
Marine lines rated -20F to 212F
Gates hoses rated -40F to 275F
You could also go silicone lines but that would be pricey plus you would lose the benefit of the semi rigidness of the marine hose (reason that we went down this road in the first place -to eliminate a bunch of clamps and have a line that's not flapping around.
Bruce
The hydraulic brake lines where made up at a local hydraulics company in the Buffalo area "Ferry Hydraulic" they specialized in heavy equipment hose replacements and plow hoses this time of year. There are quite a few company's advertising custom lines on the internet for both SS and rubber lines all you are looking for is a stock Cobalt connector (M10x1 inverted) and a banjo fitting on the other end at 28" total length -makes it slightly long but 26" works but slightly short. I have used these guys in the past and they have never steered me wrong. As for the marine hoses same company suggests the marine lines for our application I never even looked at the temp ratings until you mentioned it, they didn't think it would be an issue but I guess only time will tell.
Marine lines rated -20F to 212F
Gates hoses rated -40F to 275F
You could also go silicone lines but that would be pricey plus you would lose the benefit of the semi rigidness of the marine hose (reason that we went down this road in the first place -to eliminate a bunch of clamps and have a line that's not flapping around.
Bruce
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
- BAR-AIR Well-Known Member
Just finished a couple of productive days at "Kennedys Dynotune" in Tonawanda, NY. first if you are anywhere close to here this gentlemen is good (42 years of business in the hi performance world helps). I would guess the tire set on one of the two drag cars in the front shop were worth more then my entire car!!! Can't even amagine what's in the back or in the enclosed trailers.
So that being said, first day basically getting it wired up and set on the Dyno then couple of hours getting the car started (long story shortened.... engine getting gas has spark with compression will not fire.... total of about 10 mins on engine running actually drove it up on trailer the day before.... ended up being completely fouled plugs due to the ECM's mismanagement of fuel with the supercharger. Engine was running but very poorly that was the reason for only 10 mins. on it did not want to trash it before the reflash and tune.) End of first day, engine running with HPTuners canned reflash and tune engine running but with a noticeable miss and making about 160HP. This is where the experience comes in (and it's not mine!) Bob the owner sits down and looks at all the grafts and basically says I don't like it and he points here and there and I shake my head up and down trying not to look too confused.
Day two begins with buying 2 credits from HPTuners and Bob reworking all the grafts and parameters - too rich here too lean there knock sensor between 3600-4100 (maybe false with the headers maybe not so enriched a couple of percent knock gone)
Nearly 8 hours countless runs on the Dyno (phone actually died a couple of hours into it not that they are good but couldn't upload videos anyway). We ended up with (Bob said he could live with this tune but after I run it for a little while he wanted to fine tune it some more).
This is the numbers at the wheels.....
- 221 HP
- 190 LBS of torque
- running 10LBS of boost
I put the car back on the trailer with my donors cars tires on the rear just so that it is a little narrower easier on and off the trailer. Of coarse when I got home I just couldn't drive it back down into my basement shop. So one hit down the road even with the small bald tires it hooked up and went "Holy Crap"... I'm looking forward to getting the real rear wheels on. (Of course I'm back on the road and it's snowing in Buffalo anyway so it's going to have to wait!)
TheNuker
Goblin Guru
- TheNuker Goblin Guru
Hey Bar-Air,
Looking very good! So excited to get mine running, I need that SC noise in my life.
One question, On that marine hose you used 1" ID hose right? Then you put 1.5" ID hose around the 2 sections that coupled together? Was the 1" hose not able to splice straight into the hose pulled through the frame and to the engine side?
I might go this same way as it looks so clean, Thank you.
Nuker-
Looking very good! So excited to get mine running, I need that SC noise in my life.
One question, On that marine hose you used 1" ID hose right? Then you put 1.5" ID hose around the 2 sections that coupled together? Was the 1" hose not able to splice straight into the hose pulled through the frame and to the engine side?
I might go this same way as it looks so clean, Thank you.
Nuker-
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