Goblinfanclub1234
Goblin Guru
- Goblinfanclub1234 Goblin Guru
the smaller coolant most likely goes to the overflow tank 
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V1 Blue Man's City Goblin - 05 Base Donor
Goblinfanclub1234
Goblin Guru
- Goblinfanclub1234 Goblin Guru
that engine block heater should come out with 1 small bolt.
Blue Man
Well-Known Member
- Blue Man Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input. Our car seems to always have things just a little different. The attachments in the photos above for example (thanks for showing that, takes some effort to put that together and we appreciate it) we do not have. Ours seem to always be in different places.
For example, we just put the engine on . . . mostly. Here is our problem today, and I think it is a big one.
Only one hole on the engine mount side fits in the frame attachment. Seriously!!??
The transmission sides fits and mounts perfectly.
We run into this all the time with our car. I think it must have been one of the first ones off the line in '05 and they hadn't specialized parts and fittings to the cobalt yet.
Anyway, what should we do? I'm guessing one bolt on the engine side is not enough. Please advise . . .
For example, we just put the engine on . . . mostly. Here is our problem today, and I think it is a big one.
Only one hole on the engine mount side fits in the frame attachment. Seriously!!??
The transmission sides fits and mounts perfectly.
We run into this all the time with our car. I think it must have been one of the first ones off the line in '05 and they hadn't specialized parts and fittings to the cobalt yet.
Anyway, what should we do? I'm guessing one bolt on the engine side is not enough. Please advise . . .
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
One bolt is not enough. The passenger side engine mount is incorrect, it is far too long. You should have one the looks like this one. Here's the PN.
Blue Man
Well-Known Member
- Blue Man Well-Known Member
Okay, moment of panic and frustration over with. I went online and ordered a new engine mount. According to some of the reviews, they changed the engine mount design early on and we have the old style.
No biggie, just too bad. This was the only time for the next three weeks I had to dedicate to the car. Wanted to start it this weekend. Oh well, we can start on other things.
Are there more videos after the engine mount and start? Any guidelines for putting on the steering wheel, the seats, the suspension etc?
We could probably work on some of those this weekend if there are . . . .
No biggie, just too bad. This was the only time for the next three weeks I had to dedicate to the car. Wanted to start it this weekend. Oh well, we can start on other things.
Are there more videos after the engine mount and start? Any guidelines for putting on the steering wheel, the seats, the suspension etc?
We could probably work on some of those this weekend if there are . . . .
- snirtman Well-Known Member
I have the same problem (frame #466). The guy they have bending lines is making them an inch too long for some reason. I think I'm going to try to "zig zag" the line down the tunnel to take up the extra length. How did you end up fixing yours - did you keep it as pictured?
Blue Man
Well-Known Member
- Blue Man Well-Known Member
Okay. Got the mount and installed it. That taken care of.
Now I am trying to finish the coolant lines and gas lines.
The packaging only lists 1 1.25 coupler. The videos show us using two. There are also not enough clamps for a second coupler. Have they changed how the coolant hoses attach? We are one coupler and two clamps short of finishing that out.
Also, how do I connect the fuel lines. The video says there was a fuel hose that came in the stage 1 box but we do not have one. Am I missing something here? I have some extra length of that plastic hosing used for the brake booster. But the gas line adapters do not fit that.
Working towards that first start, but the gremlins keep popping up.
Now I am trying to finish the coolant lines and gas lines.
The packaging only lists 1 1.25 coupler. The videos show us using two. There are also not enough clamps for a second coupler. Have they changed how the coolant hoses attach? We are one coupler and two clamps short of finishing that out.
Also, how do I connect the fuel lines. The video says there was a fuel hose that came in the stage 1 box but we do not have one. Am I missing something here? I have some extra length of that plastic hosing used for the brake booster. But the gas line adapters do not fit that.
Working towards that first start, but the gremlins keep popping up.
- snirtman Well-Known Member
I got confused by a lot of that too. Here's what I did for the passenger side:
Pretty sure the video says to cut this hose and use half on the drivers side and half on the passenger side, but they don't supply enough couplers or clamps for that. I found that the supplied hose fit without cutting it. Haven't figured out what to do on the drivers side.
For fuel, I reused the stock line connected to the fuel rail and cut it where it changed to steel line. I then found a piece of nylon fuel line I had on the shelf and a Dorman 800-223 brass compression fitting (3/8 nylon to steel) to join the nylon line from the fuel filter to the steel line:
I think DF intends for you to use the two right angle fuel fittings and fuel line they supply, but I wanted to keep the stock line.
Blue Man
Well-Known Member
- Blue Man Well-Known Member
Okay. Got the coolant hose fixed. Went and bought a coupler and clamps and that is done.
Bought a fuel line and clamps and got the gas line connected. Hooked up the battery and put in the coolant and gas.
turned the key to the accessory position and the gauge lit up, the mileage popped up and the valve responded to the gas pedal. We had already primed the fuel pump.
Tried to turn on the car, but no response from the starter. There was a pop somewhere back by the engine fuse box and the gas gauge dropped to empty and the valve stopped responding to the gas pedal. We could hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds.
now I’m the acc position no response to the gas pedal and no gas gauge reading.
any ideas? Thanks!
Bought a fuel line and clamps and got the gas line connected. Hooked up the battery and put in the coolant and gas.
turned the key to the accessory position and the gauge lit up, the mileage popped up and the valve responded to the gas pedal. We had already primed the fuel pump.
Tried to turn on the car, but no response from the starter. There was a pop somewhere back by the engine fuse box and the gas gauge dropped to empty and the valve stopped responding to the gas pedal. We could hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds.
now I’m the acc position no response to the gas pedal and no gas gauge reading.
any ideas? Thanks!
Blue Man
Well-Known Member
- Blue Man Well-Known Member
Sorry, writing this on a late night layover at the airport.
there is definitely power going to the rear. The power hits the alternator and then goes to the fuse box.
a couple of thoughts, we filled the coolant from the over flow. Took nearly two gallons. Is it necessary to put some coolant in the passenger side hose at the engine like in the video? Would the engine sense a lack of coolant and not start?
there was a light that kept flashing on the display when we took the key out. It was a lock and key? Is there an anti theft issue? This was a 2005 with manual windows so I doubt it, but maybe?
with all of the items operating, I don’t think we have a grounding issue, but maybe? Maybe the starter is not grounded? Anyway to test just the
Starter?
love to hear any other ideas. Really want to see this thing running!
there is definitely power going to the rear. The power hits the alternator and then goes to the fuse box.
a couple of thoughts, we filled the coolant from the over flow. Took nearly two gallons. Is it necessary to put some coolant in the passenger side hose at the engine like in the video? Would the engine sense a lack of coolant and not start?
there was a light that kept flashing on the display when we took the key out. It was a lock and key? Is there an anti theft issue? This was a 2005 with manual windows so I doubt it, but maybe?
with all of the items operating, I don’t think we have a grounding issue, but maybe? Maybe the starter is not grounded? Anyway to test just the
Starter?
love to hear any other ideas. Really want to see this thing running!
Blue Man
Well-Known Member
- Blue Man Well-Known Member
Oh, and there were no obvious blown fuses in the rear fuse block after trying to start it. Any ideas what fuses I should look for? Any on the bcm? I had verified that there were no blown fuses in either before installing them. However, how can you tell if the big square fuses are blown? Maybe I missed one of those?
but there has to be a blown fuse now for the gas gauge and valve not to work anymore, right?
just trying to think this through…
but there has to be a blown fuse now for the gas gauge and valve not to work anymore, right?
just trying to think this through…
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Did you jumper the fuel pump relay at any point? If so, it's possible the fuse box has a bad circuit that is now open.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
It's a bit early to be fearmongering like that considering the post-pop issues are more system-wide than not getting the fuel pump to come on.
If I recall correctly, my power (and standard routing) goes from the battery to the starter, from the alternator to the starter, and from the rear fuse box to the starter. If you can probe 12v from the alternator positive to ground and from the fuse box hot to ground (with the key off, right?), then you should have continuity from the battery to the starter.
To my knowledge, the low coolant switch in the overflow tank will not cause a no-start. I ran without it hooked up for a while.
Passkey issues can be weird. I'm far from an expert on the system on an LSJ and I can't say whether your car is the same. If Passkey is the reason for your no start, I think it'll do everything but turn over, so that doesn't sound like your issue.
You can bridge the positive lead from the battery to the signal post which should just have a single small purple wire on it and the starter should engage and spin. The starter is case grounded so you can check resistance from the body to the negative post on the fuse box but you'd have a hard time introducing any meaningful resistance there with anything you could've reasonably done.
Check your all your fuses and grounds and figure out where and why you don't have power where you did before. Hopefully it's something simple like an ECM fuse and you swap it and everything works. If not, we can go from there.
