V1 Blue Man's City Goblin - 05 Base Donor

[Blue Man]

I hear what you’re saying about the maf, however, to just test run the engine, I have it plugged in and just sitting out in space. I don’t have anything running to the carburetor.

That’s what he showed in the videos. Should I not have the maf hooked up or should it be put somewhere else?

 

[ATMironov]

I hear what you’re saying about the maf, however, to just test run the engine, I have it plugged in and just sitting out in space. I don’t have anything running to the carburetor.

That’s what he showed in the videos. Should I not have the maf hooked up or should it be put somewhere else?

The MAF tells the engine how much air is coming in so it can provide the correct amount of fuel. If the MAF is not installed in the intake the car has no idea how much fuel to give the motor and will cause it the run extremely rough and die. Get the MAF installed and try again. It will probably fix your problem.
Also, just FYI, the carburetor your referring to is actually the Throttle Body. No carbs on these cars.

 

[ATMironov]

The MAF tells the engine how much air is coming in so it can provide the correct amount of fuel. If the MAF is not installed in the intake the car has no idea how much fuel to give the motor and will cause it the run extremely rough and die. Get the MAF installed and try again. It will probably fix your problem.
Also, just FYI, the carburetor your referring to is actually the Throttle Body. No carbs on these cars.

I just watched the first start video, and sure enough he doesn't have the intake or MAF installed. I'm surprised that works....
Its probably worth attaching yours and seeing if it helps

 

[Gtstorey]

Different donors will have different "MAF failed" strategies. The LNF will probably struggle to run if modified at all because you can't adjust the "Speed Density" tables. Some of the other donors may run pretty well without the MAF, depending on how well the original "Speed Density" or VE tables are set up.

 

[Blue Man]

OK. I am more than willing to use the maf sensor if it might make it work. How do I put together the air intake system? And is there a place to install the maf on it? There’s no video for this that I know of.

I replacde the spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body. But that made no difference in the way it runs. At higher RPMs. It runs Nice & Smooth, but it won’t idle. It backfires and runs rough and dies.

I also connected an OBD reader. Its new to me, so I’m probably doing it wrong, but it is only giving me four codes. Three of them involve the evap system, which is no longer there and one is for the second O2 sensor which is not plugged in.
Not getting any other readings than that. Probably something I’m doing wrong.

oh, and thanks for the heads up on the throttlebody terminology. I’m slowly learning all this stuff.

 

[Blue Man]

Also, my neighbor came over. He works on engines a little bit. He suggested that it could be an issue with the fuel injection? This car sat in a field for 18 months with a full tank of gas, and he thinks lacquer may have filled up in the injection ports? Does this sound possible to anyone? And if so, how does one fix that?

 

[Gtstorey]

I would have thought it would be throwing a MAF/MAP correlation code if the MAF isn't seeing the airflow. But maybe not on this donor. Or maybe some of the codes have been turned off.

It's possible that maybe the injectors are sticking open and leaking excess fuel in the intake during idle. Sort of hard to test for.

Have you done a basic compression test on the engine? There are a thousand things that will cause it to not run correctly and it's hard to diagnose over the internet.

I would suggest you get everything assembled that might affect how it runs and then see what happens.

 

[Ross]

If you are able to drive your goblin, you can add a small bottle of injector cleaner into your gas tank, see if that will wash out the old gas.
You can also manually clean your injectors.

 

[Blue Man]

Love the fuel injector cleaning video. Going to try that.

question…. Back in the thread we had to get a new fuel pump. We had questions about wiring it up. We finally just wired it and figured we would fix it if necessary once it was running… well…

the pump works great. No problems there. But it defaults to full and reads backwards… add gas and the gauge goes down. No problem right? Just reverse the two fuel wires. Not so.

reversing the two fuel wires (leaving ground and power, those are correct) makes no change. How does that work? Shouldn’t reversing the wires make it reverse to proper reading?

No matter which way we put those two wires, the gauge still read backwards.

Any ideas?

 

[Ross]

Do you have the correct fuel sender? Reversing the wires won't change the resistance, but flipping the sender over (in relation to the float) will.

For the standard American version sender (240-30 ohms), you will have between 232 to 252 ohms @ empty, and 28 to 36 ohms @ full. For the standard European version sender (0-180 ohms), you will have between 0 to 2 ohms @ empty, and 171 to 192 ohms @ full.

 

[Blue Man]

Forgive my ignorance, but I don’t know what a sender is. Is that some thing I can change in the pump?

 

[Ross]

Sensor is a more accurate word than sender.
The Cobalt fuel sensor is inside the gas tank, included with the fuel pump. It consists of a float attached to an arm which is attached to a potentiometer (variable resistor).

 

[Blue Man]

Okay, so a forum member sent me a message this morning saying he thought our engine idle problem (where the car would start, badly misfire and stop) was a vacuum problem and to check the brake booster hose. I told him it was open since we hadn’t connected it to anything and he suggested that we plug it up and try to start the car again.

So when I got home from work we tried the car again. We put on the air intake system and put the maf sensor in. Then we took the brake booster hose and plugged the end. We started the car, and it idled!

it idled pretty consistently at about 900-1000 RPMs for about 30 seconds and then it would dip a little bit sputter a little bit and then come back. so it wasn't perfect but it stayed running for about three minutes before we turned it off. Then we ran it for about another two minutes before turning it off again. It’s the first time that car has run in probably 27 months.

any other suggestions?

The air intake has the place for the maf sensor but also that second air intake. What is that for?

does it connect to the port coming out of the valve cover?

and here is our fancy job of plugging the brake booster hose.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Yep, the bronze fitting in the intake tube gets connected to the open port on your valve cover in the second photo. You should get the hose run to the front of the car for the brake booster if you plan to drive it at all.

 

[Blue Man]

No worries, we don’t even have tires on yet. We’ve been trying to get the engine running.

 

[Blue Man]

And that’s a pretty big size difference in the two ports. Will one hose fit both?

 

[Blue Man]

AND speaking of brake booster hose, any instructions for moving and mounting the brake reservoir?

 

[Rauq]

AND speaking of brake booster hose, any instructions for moving and mounting the brake reservoir?

Use some sort of thread sealer on the brass fittings into the aluminum block. Mine weeped until I pulled it back apart, cleaned it, and reassembled with some blue loctite. In my experience, a pressure bleeder is the easiest way to bleed Goblin brakes, especially on the first fill.

 

[Robinjo]

Use some sort of thread sealer on the brass fittings into the aluminum block. Mine wept until I pulled it back apart, cleaned it, and reassembled with some blue Loctite. In my experience, a pressure bleeder is the easiest way to bleed Goblin brakes, especially on the first fill.

I put a breather filter on the port coming off the valve cover and then 'sealed' the intake port with silver air ducting tape.

I completely agree with the pressure bleeder. That thing is the stuff! Easiest way I've ever bled brakes and clutch lines. I've even recommended it to people on other projects that were dreading doing their brakes.

AND speaking of brake booster hose, any instructions for moving and mounting the brake reservoir?

Unfortunately, not really. The photos posted got me through it all. It's not that hard to do once you get it figured out. Until you do, it's a bit tricky to visualize. I did use Red Loctite on all the brass fittings. Here is some photos I took of it all during my build, I hope they help you. If you need more, I'm sure we all can accommodate.

Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"

Day 30 8/19/2022 Hours Worked: 2.0 Total Hours: 86.5 (Assembly Hours: 24.5) In this installment we got the engine in the back of the frame. We rolled the engine into place and just lifted the rear over the engine once close. We did have a little issue with getting the bolts to line up, but that...

dfkitcar.com

And that’s a pretty big size difference in the two ports. Will one hose fit both?

It will, you just have to crank that hose clamp down uber-duber tight. I have seen some others use stepper connectors to get there. I guess you could go get some tubing at the store and run the proper diameter all the way as well, if you're super concerned with it.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

I will try my best as it has been a while. I have a 2008 NA auto so we are pretty close. See responce in green.




The below link is one of the most valuable things I found to help with the wiring. It is not exact to yours but is for a 2008 NA auto with what each wire goes to and is needd or cut. Look it over and see if it helps.

BAR-AIR's build up in Buffalo N.Y.

Yes those are 5 3/4” lenses. Just make sure they are the DOT lenses. Those were advertised as DOT lenses but when they showed up no DOT markings. Took about a month of back and forth with the manufacturer before they sent a set of DOT lenses. Nate’s car is using a set of 5 3/4” headlight shells...

dfkitcar.com

Joe

mind pointing to where its mentioned in the older video to extend the shifter wire?