V1 Chris’s 2007 SS/SC track frame build for autocross

[ccannx]

POR15 is the way I plan to go. The stuff is far tougher than powder coat, it doesn't chip or crack. Just be sure to put a top coat on it, it will not last out in the sun as UV rays will break it down over time.

Are you sticking with black or going with a another color?

I'm so indecisive sometimes pretty sure I'm going to leave the subframe black , thinking about chevy orange for the cage and valve covers. POR15 lays down so smooth its almost a shame to cover it up.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Without the UV protection in the POR15 base coat, you will need a top coat. I've used this stuff before, on rust-belt car frames and parts, and it works, lasts a long time, and is pretty impervious to everything. Their chassis coat top coat is a semi-gloss black and looks great.

 

[ccannx]

199k mile lsj

 

[ccannx]

The old belt had some cracking and was making squealing noises. Had a hard time putting on a new belt and remedied that problem with a you-tube video. Looks like the previous owner had the same problem by the looks of how marred up the pulley is. It made it a lot easier knowing where that hidden bolt was under the plastic cover on the pulley wheel itself.

 

[ccannx]

I lost my coolant bypass hose on the donor tear down today the new subject came in the mail.

 

[ccannx]

Got a chance to thin out the dash. I have a few extra things I’m not sure what to do with like the seat heater wires and the tire pressure monitor cables. I also recall reading something about leaving a few wires to do a push button start but I will need to find the thread.

I used self sticking Velcro instead of zip ties. I mess around with cable a bit at work and like being able to re-enter without snipping ties.

A nice pile of spare wires came out !

Now onto the body harness.

 

[Ross]

I was thinking of adding seat heaters, as the cab heater doesn't work with the open-air cabin.
Guess it depends if you plan on driving this kit in colder weather.

 

[ctuinstra]

Got a chance to thin out the dash. I have a few extra things I’m not sure what to do with like the seat heater wires and the tire pressure monitor cables. I also recall reading something about leaving a few wires to do a push button start but I will need to find the thread.

You won't need the wires to the seat heaters unless you want to add heaters to the new seat. Not something I can image needing. The wind is far colder than your bum. I originally thought about keeping the seat heaters since we had them but Kaleb quickly brought me to my senses.

There is no special wire you will need for the push to start system if you add it. If anything, put a wire from the switched side of the brake switch and extend it up to the key area. All the rest of the wires are there. At one point I mentioned that you needed a constant hot wire, but there is one already at the key.

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/push-button-start-system.899/

 

[ccannx]

You won't need the wires to the seat heaters unless you want to add heaters to the new seat. Not something I can image needing. The wind is far colder than your bum. I originally thought about keeping the seat heaters since we had them but Kaleb quickly brought me to my senses.

There is no special wire you will need for the push to start system if you add it. If anything, put a wire from the switched side of the brake switch and extend it up to the key area. All the rest of the wires are there. At one point I mentioned that you needed a constant hot wire, but there is one already at the key.

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/push-button-start-system.899/

I originally wanted to use the stock seats and attach the heaters but decided against it. I have a set of corbeau a4's alcantera in the c5. I would like to move over to the goblin but will have to wait until I get the frame to see if they will fit. What no-one mentions is you need to swap the drivers for the passengers or the pivot mechanism hits the seat re-tractor. Now I have the drivers seat with sub belt holes in the passenger side and the drivers side with none.... It will be a relief to move them over.

 

[ccannx]

Made a little dent in the main wiring harness today, its a lot bigger than the dash harness. Reminds me of the joys of wiring the Poorsat ! It was fun getting an auto harness to run a manual we had to lock the shift switch in park so it would start.

Got the 4x100 hubs in the mail today ordered 2 front and 2 rears. Im guessing the fronts go on the rear and the rear go on the front of the goblin. I think rotors and maybe calipers come in the kit not entirely sure yet and not sure about the pads or brake lines either. I'm not going the use the ones from my donor since they have 200k on them already.

 

[askiles]

Made a little dent in the main wiring harness today, its a lot bigger than the dash harness. Reminds me of the joys of wiring the Poorsat ! It was fun getting an auto harness to run a manual we had to lock the shift switch in park so it would start.

Got the 4x100 hubs in the mail today ordered 2 front and 2 rears. Im guessing the fronts go on the rear and the rear go on the front of the goblin. I think rotors and maybe calipers come in the kit not entirely sure yet and not sure about the pads or brake lines either. I'm not going the use the ones from my donor since they have 200k on them already.

Pads and brake lines do not come with the kit. You can buy the SS brake lines from DF as an added option. Well worth it over the rubber lines of course

 

[DCMoney]

I thought my kit came with the rubber lines. Will have to check now...

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

If you are using the rubber lines, some of the donor brake line parts are needed, if I recall correctly from the videos.

 

[Karter2026]

Buy the braided stainless option. Great quality and looks. And less connections to leak. Besides you are autocrossing you will get more consistent braking I would think you would want the better braking also. I think they were around $160 for the set of 4

 

[ccannx]

Buy the braided stainless option. Great quality and looks. And less connections to leak. Besides you are autocrossing you will get more consistent braking I would think you would want the better braking also. I think they were around $160 for the set of 4

I just need to call Adam up and get them ordered so everything comes in one sweep hopefully.

 

[ccannx]

I got a little nervous today when I couldn't find the power steering pump wire then remembered it was separated. It would be awesome to have a picture thread with all the parts with the factory part numbers associated with them.

 

[ccannx]

Soldering the smaller wires was easy that big boy though, harness will be on hold till tomorrow need to get a better iron.

 

[ccannx]

I feel like I’m missing something. I’m watching the build guide video series part 12 and first I couldn’t find the light blue parking brake wire, guess I snipped it off.

Then I can’t for the life of me find a long black defroster cable.

Now I’m looking at this plug and feel like it should be plugged into something but can’t find a proper mate for it....

 

[Dylan Stan]

That looks to be the airbag srs main plug. Not positive.

 

[Dylan Stan]

That looks to be the airbag srs main plug. Not positive.

Or the ABS system plug. In that case. Those brown and brown with black stripe wires need to be looped to continue its path. Those are the Data wires. I hava a SC too and the defroster wire wasnt long enough for me so i used another wire for the radiator fan.