• We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.

V1 Clutch and brake bleed question

Rttoys
.
IMG_3538.png
IMG_3539.png
 
A
Be aware: the actual T/O bearing feed pipe(7) is not a spiral pig's tail thinggie like this diagram shows! It is just about 6" of pipe with some purposeful but simple bends and very specific ends on it. (Actually rather boring looking.) Rock Auto has an actual pic. I guess bored artists show up in odd places like service manuals and parts lists. This is truly "an Artist's Mis-Conception". Nice drawing though!
 
ToothMagician
Ok so I got a borescope in there and the slave cylinder isn't holding pressure. It is what's leaking so I'm pulling the transmission and replacing all those parts.

I heard there's a way to pull the transmission without pulling the engine completely. Is that true?

Any input is welcome

Is it easy to pull the housing off and check the second gear syncro/block ring in the transmission?
 
Last edited:
Traé
Ok so I got a borescope in there and the slave cylinder isn't holding pressure. It is what's leaking so I'm pulling the transmission and replacing all those parts.

I heard there's a way to pull the transmission without pulling the engine completely. Is that true?

Any input is welcome

Is it easy to pull the housing off and check the second gear syncro/block ring in the transmission?
I have had this bookmarked just in case, hopefully it helps a bit.

 
ToothMagician
What else should I replace while in there? So far I got a new slave, tube and elbow. Looks like there may be a seal in there as well? Sorry I've never done anything like this before
 
Robinjo
What else should I replace while in there? So far I got a new slave, tube and elbow. Looks like there may be a seal in there as well? Sorry I've never done anything like this before
Make sure the elbow is tight. I had an issue where mine had come loose and caused a leak. It's two pieces, not one solid part. It was a pain to tighten in the vehicle. See the photo below:
51800
 
Last edited:
comegetjoe
I measured out at 3/16", just a hair over with a .250 blue spacer from zzp. According to the video, I *should be fine.

Not trying to hijack a thread, but its sort of relevant if we're talking about it.
 
G
I measured out at 3/16", just a hair over with a .250 blue spacer from zzp. According to the video, I *should be fine.

Not trying to hijack a thread, but its sort of relevant if we're talking about it.
It's hard to say exactly since it will depend on how much extension will be available on a particular brand of throw-out bearing before it overextends and leaks.
 
G
If you could come up with an estimated dimension you would see to include actually disengagement of the pressure plate, you could restrain the throw-out bearing at that dimension and see if it fails before installation in the vehicle.
 
Robinjo
I've got a blue ZZP TOB spacer laying around my house collecting dust. If you need it, let me know. Just cover shipping.

Measuring the air gap from the video that Gtstory posted is super easy to do. Of course, I did it with the engine out of the vehicle which made it super easy. If you can get the trans out without pulling the engine, it should still be pretty easy to do. I would recommend measuring the gap 2 or 3 times to ensure you get similar numbers.
 
comegetjoe
Thats leads me further to beleive it's a loose clutch pipe fitting or that stupid aluminum elbow.

Clarifying. Ive got my install completed, with the .250 spacer (biggest zzp sells) and a blown TOB was just one option that might be a problem of puddling fluid in my bellhousing, just like @ToothMagician
 
Desert Sasqwatch
Joe, you should add that your transmission is a F40 and has different dimensions to contend with than the F35 or F23. The dual mass clutch is thicker in height than the single mass clutches and the pressure plate engagement location is the variable you are trying to accommodate.
 
Back
Top