V1 Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Of course Racer X missed me! Unfortunately the drill monster spotted some other non-structurals on the frame that needed a few more speedholes - and the separation plate inside the center tunnel somehow broke off its welds and fell out?!? Another half pound of steel went to the great recycler in the sky.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

My engine and transmission are now home from a lonely year in storage too.

And yes that's a DIY cart to move it all around on. More than a few bolts and 3 inch deck screws to hold it all together, but it works well and was cheap to build.

 

[Classy]

It needs some holes drilled in it

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Bought a second LNF intake manifold and I will modify to bypass the stock PCV valve (NPT plug) and install ports for an oil separation/external PCV system that will help reduce oil vapor getting to the back of the intake valves. In case anyone wants to know what the stock PCV port looks like inside the manifold:

Additionally, I will be adding individual ports for water/meth injection for boost cooling/knock reduction and to get this to the back of the intake valves to 'wash' them and provide some cooling effect.

That pesky Evap port will also be cleaned up - read ground off - and NPT plugged.

Note: the extra intake manifold is sitting on top of the stock manifold, in case it looks funny in the photo.

 

[JBINTX]

Bought a second LNF intake manifold and I will modify to bypass the stock PCV valve (NPT plug) and install ports for an oil separation/external PCV system that will help reduce oil vapor getting to the back of the intake valves. In case anyone wants to know what the stock PCV port looks like inside the manifold:
View attachment 33870
Additionally, I will be adding individual ports for water/meth injection for boost cooling/knock reduction and to get this to the back of the intake valves to 'wash' them and provide some cooling effect.
View attachment 33872
That pesky Evap port will also be cleaned up - read ground off - and NPT plugged.

Note: the extra intake manifold is sitting on top of the stock manifold, in case it looks funny in the photo.

Tim, you decide how you will be routing your external pcv system?

oil separator

(The IM and intercooler on our engine were, btw, free of gunk.) (Proof, btw, that the stock crankcase-venting config had been doing an excellent job.) You have to remember that every engine is different the key word here is some "The LSJ DOES NOT HAVE A COKING ISSUE it’s not a DI engine, but...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Yes, I've spent a lot of time researching how the retail suppliers are doing this - and the problems that GM has experienced with the ecotec system. As has been mentioned, the intake valve coking has been an issue with the DI engines and I for one want do the preventative measures up front with my new engine.

That being said, the short explanation is: engine side port in the intake > sealed catch can > external PCV > throttle body side port in intake - this the flow path. The PCV is positioned to prohibit boost pressure flow back into the catch can (don't want one of these blowing up behind my head), but will allow intake vacuum to pull air/oil vapor from the crankcase, through the catch can, and into the intake manifold.

Please note this is only part of the crankcase ventilation. The other side is the 2 ports in the valve cover, in the rear corner by the turbo, will be pulling air through a second catch can. These ports are under constant vacuum, with air/oil vapor pulling into the turbo intake side. Keeping oil out of the turbo compressor is also very important to longevity.

The 2 catch cans must be separate from each other to keep the intake manifold side of the air flow/ambient pressure from the turbo vacuum side. Allowing these to mix could potentially screw up the pressure references for boost control or worse.

Edit: before anyone jumps all over it, the valve cover port connected to the turbo compressor will get the catch can. The other 'fresh air' intake port will be plumbed with the check valve to allow air into the engine and keep air/oil vapor from reverse flowing out.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Question I cannot locate an answer for that I had a concern about - found this while looking for a dropped bolt.

In the top of the water pump, there's a rectangular hole.

In the bottom of this hole is a shiny horizontal shaft. My concern is this hole doesn't appear to have any way to drain water and looks like a dirt collection point. I must assume the shaft is a rotating part of the water pump and would this be a point of failure if it is not capped off?

Has anyone else noticed this? Can someone with a donor motor check to see if this hole is still clear of debris or if it has collected dirt, etc. over time?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Next question, what's the best way to remove the braided stainless hose that connects the valve cover to the turbo inlet? I do not want to destroy or cut anything, it needs to be properly disconnected, please.

I've tried a removal tool on the turbo side, cannot get the inner clips to release. The valve cover side is far too close, very narrow gap, to get a tool into. Thanks for inputs.

 

[Rauq]

While annoying to clean, it doesn't look like anything atypical.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

here is a link about the braided hose check post number 65 looks like you can get creative with some zip ties to release the locking tabs.
I have had luck on other cars with the same style fuel lines that are too close to get a tool into, I bend paper clips to lift the locking tabs up.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

While annoying to clean, it doesn't look like anything atypical.
View attachment 33937

Thanks. I did find something that will work to plug this hole. I believe these are protective shipping brackets from the 50 inch light bar on my Jeep. Exact width and cut to length, fills the hole perfectly and has a handle to remove it if needed.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

here is a link about the braided hose check post number 65 looks like you can get creative with some zip ties to release the locking tabs.
I have had luck on other cars with the same style fuel lines that are too close to get a tool into, I bend paper clips to lift the locking tabs up.

Wow! That was a pain! Used the tie wrap method, I'm sure I didn't do it exactly the way someone else with better skill at doing this, but got it off. Thanks

 

[Gtstorey]

That's a different tie wrap method than the CobaltSS.net link but as long as it works.

 

[gofast]

My engine and transmission are now home from a lonely year in storage too.
View attachment 33866
And yes that's a DIY cart to move it all around on. More than a few bolts and 3 inch deck screws to hold it all together, but it works well and was cheap to build.

Like you, I bought the same engine from ATK. I'm still confused about whether it is a LNF or LDK. Have you determined that for sure? My concern is the LNF has forged connecting rods, the LDK does not.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

All of the paperwork and identification on the engine indicate it's a LNF. But the block is sand cast and not lost foam cast as the LNF is purported to be on most on-line sources. In comparison to the LNF I removed from the donor there are no external physical differences, for all of the mechanical items. Only things like the high pressure pipe from the cam pump to the injectors (no pulse can) and other ancillary small items. Cannot be 100% certain.
At some point in the future my engine will be getting upgraded - valve springs, pistons, balance shafts, so changing rods is also on the list too. Kinda too late at that point...

 

[Gtstorey]

I think they are an LDK block with LNF ancillaries bolted to it. I think GM had planned on selling them to someone in Europe for some "use", probably similar deal to selling Ecotecs to Polaris and the deal feel through.

 

[gofast]

If anyone tears into one of these engines, I'd love to know if the connecting rods are forged.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Carryover from post #402 and prior:
Spending some time re-inventoring the pieces and parts for my Goblin - I have a lot to go through (and that's not all of it in the photo ).

Dug out some of the brake parts and took a comparison photo of the old brake booster/master cylinder against the new brake booster/master cylinder (in case anyone has been (re)contemplating their touchy brakes). New is a 7 inch single diaphragm booster with a 1.125 inch master cylinder versus the 11 inch dual diaphragm booster with a 7/8 inch (I think?) master cylinder from the Cobalt.

Smaller, lighter, adjustable (for pedal travel) - should be closer to a manual setup in feel with better modulation than the Cobalt system could ever achieve (IMO). I also have an adjustable vacuum regulator and a proportioning valve to fine tune once I get to test out this setup. Yeah, it's definitely an experiment, but someone has to do it.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Spending some time re-inventoring the pieces and parts for my Goblin - I have a lot to through (and that's not all of it in the photo ).

There's a fix for that - start building and the parts pile dwindles.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I need to stop taking things apart first. The welder (and grinder) have seen a lot of use in the past week, still more to go. I'm really getting closer to finishing all the DF frame mods...I am really. But Dale keeps feeding me more ideas and...I...can't...stop...the...mods!!! The Goblin subframe is just too heavy and ugly (even with speedholes), and the Cobalt strut suspension is too clunky and lacks the correct geometry, and...