Fenix's Cobalt SS LSJ (Non goblin)

[Rauq]

At the risk of saying something you've already been told or heard previously, the seal between the elbow and the clutch pipe has to be installed on the top of the clutch pipe before the clutch elbow is installed on the top of the clutch pipe. If you put the two pieces together and then pull them back apart, there's a decent chance the seal will stay inside the elbow. It is not likely to seal again that way, so you have to pull it out of the elbow and reinstall on top of the clutch pipe. This post from an HHR forum shows the seal stuck inside the elbow. The thread doesn't make resolution clear but I'm pretty sure that was their issue.

Additionally, as you'll have new parts in the mix, make absolutely certain there's only one seal present. Remember the seal likes to stay inside of and hide in the elbow.

 

[Gtstorey]

And I don't know that a leak in this area would contaminate the clutch. At least to the point of ruining it. When I had the double seal issue, I just sprayed the inside of the bell housing with brake cleaner and let it set for a few days, and no problems since.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

At the risk of saying something you've already been told or heard previously, the seal between the elbow and the clutch pipe has to be installed on the top of the clutch pipe before the clutch elbow is installed on the top of the clutch pipe. If you put the two pieces together and then pull them back apart, there's a decent chance the seal will stay inside the elbow. It is not likely to seal again that way, so you have to pull it out of the elbow and reinstall on top of the clutch pipe. This post from an HHR forum shows the seal stuck inside the elbow. The thread doesn't make resolution clear but I'm pretty sure that was their issue.

Additionally, as you'll have new parts in the mix, make absolutely certain there's only one seal present. Remember the seal likes to stay inside of and hide in the elbow.

I've heard about this indeed and it did get stuck and I put it back on as it should, yet it continues to leak. I appreciate the information and helpful advice! I have the other F35 to test on maybe I can see what I'm doing wrong by playing with the other fitting on the pulled trans and pressurize the line

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Seal on Slave Cylinder - Cobalt SS Network

Problems/Service/Maintenance - Seal on Slave Cylinder - I did a clutch job recently and I couldn't figure out for the life of me why I couldn't keep pressure in my line when I reinstalled the elbow. I was searching through other posts throughout css.net and I found an article about a job gone...

www.cobaltss.net

im missing the O ring i think

i dont think i even screwed the thread all the way enough into the cylinder anyways, might as well see if i can drop the trans faster and quicker this time.

also any idea what this noise may be from? the grinding noise goes away when the clutch is pressed in or there is no torque load happening

this isnt the MU3 but it notes to lube the inside of the cylinder with some grease https://charm.li/Chevrolet/2005/Cobalt L4-2.0L SC VIN P/Repair and Diagnosis/Transmission and Drivetrain/Clutch/Clutch Hydraulic System/Clutch Slave Cylinder/Service and Repair/

iv been using this website to help a little here is a exploded view of the trans https://charm.li/Chevrolet/2005/Cobalt L4-2.0L SC VIN P/Repair and Diagnosis/Transmission and Drivetrain/Manual Transmission/Transaxle/Locations/MU3 Manual Transmission/Manual Transmission Component Views/ some people mention the input shaft bearing might be the noise over on other forums though im looking and cant figure out if i need to tear into the transmission itself to service that part. even with guides and such im not confident enough to take it apart like that

also looking at both drain plug magnets the donor trans has a lot more metal filings than the original

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Transmission is out again. Some pictures. Including old pressure plate. There was a lot of brake fluid.

Ever heard the definition of insanity?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The pressure plate can be cleaned. What does the clutch disc look like - both sides. If it looks wet in any place it absorbed oil and this cannot be removed.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

The pressure plate can be cleaned. What does the clutch disc look like - both sides. If it looks wet in any place it absorbed oil and this cannot be removed.

looked fine until i dropped it into a puddle of mt90 oil got about 1 to 4 o clock on the edge coated and i tried drying it off as quickly as possible, looks ok now but now i dunno what to do, the pressure plate is dry, guess i need to order another clutch disc now?

edit: i ordered a new one anyway :/

 

[Fenix Nexen]

new clutch put in but now im having a really hard time mating the transmission and engine together, maybe i should try dropping the engine to make it easier?

 

[Ross]

Have you measured the clutch free play clearance?
Are you using the spacer plate between the transmission and the engine?

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Have you measured the clutch free play clearance?
Are you using the spacer plate between the transmission and the engine?

i have not measured, what does that mean? and yes im using the spacer plate. i think the tools im using are kinda shite for this job, i got lucky i think getting it in last time

here is the clutch kit i got https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4695558&cc=1430991&pt=1993&jsn=556 and clutch disc https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11123909&cc=1430991&pt=10605&jsn=577

 

[Ross]

Here is another AI answer from my browser... not trying to upset people, but it describes the measuring better than I do.

To measure the clutch components on a Chevy Cobalt, particularly for proper clutch engagement, you need to take two specific measurements related to the slave cylinder and pressure plate.

First, measure "A," which is the distance from the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers, ensuring the clutch is torqued properly.

Second, measure "B," the distance from the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing, with the slave spring removed and the bearing fully seated at the bottom of its travel.

For proper clutch function, measurement "B" should be approximately 1/16" to 1/8" less than measurement "A".
If "B" exceeds "A" by more than 1/8", a shim may be required between the slave cylinder and transmission to correct the clearance.
Additionally, check the free play of the clutch pedal by pressing down until tension is felt; it should be within the 1/2-inch to 1-inch range.
If the rubber portion of the clutch line expands when the pedal is pressed, this indicates a potential leak or wear that may require line replacement.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Here is another AI answer from my browser... not trying to upset people, but it describes the measuring better than I do.

To measure the clutch components on a Chevy Cobalt, particularly for proper clutch engagement, you need to take two specific measurements related to the slave cylinder and pressure plate.

First, measure "A," which is the distance from the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers, ensuring the clutch is torqued properly.

Second, measure "B," the distance from the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing, with the slave spring removed and the bearing fully seated at the bottom of its travel.

For proper clutch function, measurement "B" should be approximately 1/16" to 1/8" less than measurement "A".
If "B" exceeds "A" by more than 1/8", a shim may be required between the slave cylinder and transmission to correct the clearance.
Additionally, check the free play of the clutch pedal by pressing down until tension is felt; it should be within the 1/2-inch to 1-inch range.
If the rubber portion of the clutch line expands when the pedal is pressed, this indicates a potential leak or wear that may require line replacement.

came to mind

 

[Gtstorey]

I can't see throw-out bearing spacing causing it to not mate up. I assume you used had an alignment tool to try and get the clutch disc centered? I hope you did confirm the disc would mate up to the transmission shaft?

Sometimes they can be a real B***h to get everything aligned, especially in awkward spaces.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

I havent been using one of these

. To support the engine iv been using a jack. I got the support bar today and hope it helps. The jack I am using for the transmission is one of these

. It sucks. There is no room on it to move the transmission around and if you do it will slide off and rotate in the transmission in a way that makes it impossible to line it up. In the span of a week I have had to undo the mating process over 50 times just to adjust the transmission on this jack. The strap barely helps. Im thinking of making a better platform / mount out of wood on the jack stand, I dunno though.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

You know you can tilt the platform that the transmission sits on to adjust for the contour of the housing to get the mating angle of the spline shaft correct. I've been using my HF transmission jack for more than a 2 decades to install/remove, by myself, for numerous RWD and FWD applications and it works just fine when it is adjusted correctly.

 

[Gtstorey]

I just manhandled mine into place.

 

[Robinjo]

I just manhandled mine into place.

Same

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Im not celebrating but I have successfully mated the transmission to the engine. Pulling a vacuum on the brake reservoir it holds.

Following this guide here https://charm.li/Chevrolet/2005/Cobalt L4-2.0L SC VIN P/Repair and Diagnosis/Transmission and Drivetrain/Clutch/Clutch Hydraulic System/Service and Repair/ Though doing so I noticed that there is brake fluid weeping at the brake booster seen here:

Great. Pulling the vacuum probably popped the seal, or something. Cant imagine its hard to fix in comparison to the transmission. Im thinking of properly bleeding out the clutch line to see if anything else weeps or leaks before moving forward with the assembly process, thoughts, anything I should do before moving forward? Also this is how I felt after seeing the brake booster weeping:

Also just to make sure I aint crazy I am wiping up that area and checking every so often if it actually is leaking or its just fluid dripping down from working around that area.

 

[Gtstorey]

Are you not going to relocate the brake reservoir from off the master cylinder? And if it actually the booster that is leaking and not the reservoir to master cylinder, about all you can do is replace the master cylinder (or rebuild it). The booster shouldn't have fluid in it.

 

[Fenix Nexen]

Are you not going to relocate the brake reservoir from off the master cylinder? And if it actually the booster that is leaking and not the reservoir to master cylinder, about all you can do is replace the master cylinder (or rebuild it). The booster shouldn't have fluid in it.

I'm not versed in mods you should do to this car and engine. I tried searching how to relocate the brake reservoir from off the master cylinder and couldn't find anything