V1 [GUIDE] F35 to F23 (with LSD) Transmission Swap

[devianteng]

My hope is by using the correct tools, I can pull the bearings and reuse. I do plan to reuse the bearing shim from the open diff. My Quaife LSD showed up yesterday and DF should be shipping my F23 either today or on Monday, so looking to get going on this very soon!

 

[devianteng]

So what’s the secret to removing the 8mm hex bolt from the intermediate shaft? I’ve broken 2 chrome 3/8” drive (Icon) hex sockets With a 32” breaker bar, and have broken a Pittsburgh impact rated 1/2” drive hex socket with my Kobalt 24v XTR impact. I also had my heat gun blow on it for about 5 minutes but that made no difference. I have the tool to hold the I put shaft, but I just can’t break that stupid bolt loose.

Ordered 2 Tekton 1/2” impact rated hex sockets to see how those do, but I’m at a loss here.

 

[Rttoys]

Get a micro torch to melt the loctite. A bit more direct heat.and/or a really good socket like a snap on

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YUEFGC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

 

[ah.b.normal]

Get a micro torch to melt the loctite. A bit more direct heat.and/or a really good socket like a snap on

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YUEFGC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

You may have to heat that fastener until it glows a little to melt the Loctite? I'd bet there is a chart showing how hot it needs to get to release. Closely directed heat is your friend.

 

[devianteng]

My biggest concern with heat is the bearing that the bolt goes through. Is that not something to worry about?

 

[ah.b.normal]

My biggest concern with heat is the bearing that the bolt goes through. Is that not something to worry about?

That is an obvious concern but this is NOT my area of expertise. Call out/search on this forum for folks that have done this procedure. You are installing an LSD? All I can add is that it comes apart and someone on this forum has had theirs apart, and I would bet they posted their experiences. Their experience should clear this up. Heating up stuff is always scary.

 

[Rttoys]

It shouldn’t be that much heat. More direct heat, than anything. Gets the bolt hot instead of the surrounding area.

 

[devianteng]

Heat did the trick. Got it apart, got the shim and installed bearings on the LSD, etc. I learned that the ring gear bolts are TTY, and I don't have them ordered. Did anyone re-use yours, or do you have a part number for new ones?

 

[Rauq]

I reused mine.

 

[devianteng]

I reused mine.

Well alright, say less.

 

[Grayson]

Hi everyone, I have been having issues with my clutch engagement and have reached the point where I am totally perplexed.
I have an lsj with an f23 swap and a f23 throwout bearing. The issue Im having is when the clutch pedal is fully depressed the car rolls forward, when its halfway out it doesnt move, when fully released it rolls forward. I measured the air gap per the ZZP video and my air gap is the same as the video where it doesn't call for a spacer (2 5/8 - 2 1/4 = 3/8). I have also replaced my master cylinder and rebled the system multiple times with the same result each time. I am open to any ideas or suggestions. The transmission is currently disconnected from the engine so I could measure my air gap. Thanks in advance!

 

[Gtstorey]

About the only thing left is the pressure plate but I can’t say how it would fail like that or how to test it.

 

[Rauq]

Wait so you have partial clutch engagement at full pedal travel, no clutch engagement at half pedal, and full clutch engagement at zero pedal travel? I can wrap my head around partial engagement at full pedal travel but not with zero engagement at half pedal travel.

 

[comegetjoe]

Hi everyone, I have been having issues with my clutch engagement and have reached the point where I am totally perplexed.
I have an lsj with an f23 swap and a f23 throwout bearing. The issue Im having is when the clutch pedal is fully depressed the car rolls forward, when its halfway out it doesnt move, when fully released it rolls forward. I measured the air gap per the ZZP video and my air gap is the same as the video where it doesn't call for a spacer (2 5/8 - 2 1/4 = 3/8). I have also replaced my master cylinder and rebled the system multiple times with the same result each time. I am open to any ideas or suggestions. The transmission is currently disconnected from the engine so I could measure my air gap. Thanks in advance!

Ive just confused myself. Ignore me.

 

[Markm]

Maybe a pilot bearing issue? Don’t remember what kind of car it was but I had one that the pressure plate fingers would contact the clutch disc hub causing it to move when clutch was disengaged.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Clutch disc installed backwards? It would kinda engage the motor again when the T/O bearing presses against the center of the clutch hub. Or clutch disc center is coming apart?
You may be able to see the problem through the inspection cover or with a bore scope.
BUT the good news is it sounds like the hydraulics and T/O bearing may be working right.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Maybe a pilot bearing issue? Don’t remember what kind of car it was but I had one that the pressure plate fingers would contact the clutch disc hub causing it to move when clutch was disengaged.

No pilot bushing on this application.

 

[Grayson]

Wait so you have partial clutch engagement at full pedal travel, no clutch engagement at half pedal, and full clutch engagement at zero pedal travel? I can wrap my head around partial engagement at full pedal travel but not with zero engagement at half pedal travel.

This is correct, I've tried replacing the master cylinder as I thought it was a bleed issue but its consistent unlike air in the line. It seems mechanical. The clutch isn't slipping. My first thought was that I was using a f23 throwout bearing but from what I have seen on the forum it should work just fine especially since the air gap is correct.

 

[Grayson]

Clutch disc installed backwards? It would kinda engage the motor again when the T/O bearing presses against the center of the clutch hub. Or clutch disc center is coming apart?
You may be able to see the problem through the inspection cover or with a bore scope.
BUT the good news is it sounds like the hydraulics and T/O bearing may be working right.

I didn't touch the clutch when I switched the transmission from an f35 to an f23. Its possible the previous owner would have installed it backwards but I feel like that would cause issues when it was the f35 transmission as well. I could swap my clutch. Are there any recommendations on the best clutch setup for an f35 with an f23 trans?

 

[ah.b.normal]

The air gap may be correct but if the F23 T/O bearing compresses the F35 pressure plate fingers further in it could contact the clutch hub? This is all speculation on my part as I Do Not have the pieces(even used) to compare clutch stack heights.
Are you using the bell housing spacer plate used on the F35? No "right answer", just for info.
There is also always a possibility the clutch hub/springs gave up? They can be real poop heads and not give 2 weeks notice.