V1 Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

[jirwin]

More testing today. The alternator had a noticable sticking point still, and started squeaking louder so i jusy replaced it. While replacing I sanded all contsct points for it on the block. Charged the battery to full. It started hard again so either ground issue or battery is going.

Measuring voltage after starting it slowly creeped up by the hundredth... 12.50... 12.51... Until I turned the heat exchanger pump and fan back on. Then it dropped and kept dropping. I'm so confused tbh. Am I right I'm thinking with a function alternator and a maybe bad battery it should still be reading 13-14V immediately after startup?

 

[jirwin]

Just started it again and now its measuring 13.5 and climbing even with heat exchanger stuff on. Idk what to think

 

[Gtstorey]

Check voltage drop at battery during cranking. Might help indicate a bad battery.

 

[Gtstorey]

Do you have another fully charged battery that you can compare voltage to, just at rest? This will confirm your voltage meter accuracy. Your 12.5 volts at fully charged isn’t really right, especially if not straight off a charger. A good battery should be more like 12.7 24 hours after taking it off the charger. Immediately after taking it off a charger it should be more.

Are you running the battery current sensor? If so, the variable charging voltage is normal, or at least reasonable. But the service manual doesn’t give any details on what it uses to decide what the charging voltage should be.

If it was me, I would confirm all of the main connections between battery and alternator are clean and tight. Both positive and negative side. If they prove good, the next steps will depend on what your values are on the questions I’ve asked above. But I think we are looking at a bad battery or starter, or a combination of both.

 

[Gtstorey]

And have you checked for trouble codes? The ECM has a pretty extensive diagnostic system on the charge side.

 

[jirwin]

I'll check trouble codes. Considering it's a new starter too, I'm thinking battery as well. I'll swing by after riding today and get one

 

[Gtstorey]

Unfortunately new parts doesn’t necessarily mean good anymore. But if it exhibited the same symptoms before the change, it’s probably not the starter.

 

[jirwin]

Add one to the tally boys. Likely a ground.

In my defense all the grounds I had pre-rebuild were good and where they should be. It worked then. I believe painting the engine block may have messed with a path to ground I'm not able to see (maybe engine/trans mount bolts?).

Anyway, I added an auxiliary ground after stranding myself again (with a new battery). Started better, the alternator immediately got me to 14.8V, and it seemed fine otherwise.

Its charging overnight. Tomorrow I'll add yet another auxiliary ground to another part of the system and I'll attempt another longer drive.

 

[Gtstorey]

Has your 12.5 battery voltage been measured at the battery terminals or at the B+ post at the fuse box to the block or somewhere on the car?

 

[jirwin]

Mostly the post. When I last measured the battery it was the same so I stopped measuring at the battery for convenience

 

[jirwin]

Took it for a quick ride to test the new grounds. I *think* the problem is solved, but of course I ran into a new problem. Can't test an alternator if you chuck a belt. Thankfully I was only a mile from home and I was able to limp it home on just battery. Don't exactly know what would have caused it to throw, but I'll figure it out

 

[ah.b.normal]

Add one to the tally boys. Likely a ground.

In my defense all the grounds I had pre-rebuild were good and where they should be. It worked then. I believe painting the engine block may have messed with a path to ground I'm not able to see (maybe engine/trans mount bolts?).

Anyway, I added an auxiliary ground after stranding myself again (with a new battery). Started better, the alternator immediately got me to 14.8V, and it seemed fine otherwise.

Its charging overnight. Tomorrow I'll add yet another auxiliary ground to another part of the system and I'll attempt another longer drive.

I didn’t want it to be a ground but I guess life is just that way? I guess I’ll be haunted by bad grounds until they chuck me in the ground. Oh well! Bon Route!

 

[jirwin]

Got the boost reference fuel pressure regulator installed. Was about to take it for a test drive aaaaaaaaaaand the key snapped in the ignition. I was able to fish it out thankfully, but **** if that isn't frustrating. I just want to drive the thing more than 2 miles without an issue!!

Hopefully the dealer doesn't give me crap about not having a title for the Cobalt since the state took the title to create the Goblin.

 

[Gtstorey]

You should be able to get 2(not one if you don’t have another) from a locksmith. The can probably cut it from what you have unless it broke in the middle. The relearn process might be a little harder though.

 

[jirwin]

You should be able to get 2(not one if you don’t have another) from a locksmith. The can probably cut it from what you have unless it broke in the middle. The relearn process might be a little harder though.

I only have the one key. Its broken in the middle of course. As long as I can get the dealer or whoever to cut me a new one I should be good. I think there's a backup way to program it to the car if you don't have a working key (3 x 10min of leaving it in ignition)

 

[jirwin]

Welp, I shredded 2 more belts. Idk wtf to do. It all looks fine. All I can think of is the ATI damper is causing me issues because its 8rib and allowing my 5 rib belt to walk around. I start it, shut it off immediately, and the alternator and AC pulley are shifted one rib off. I've tried different positions on the ATI (closest, 1 off closest, 2 off...) and it doesn't seem to do anything at all. Still walks off. Half tempted to return my new alternator and try to source a 6 rib LSJ setup. I think I'd just need the tensioners, pulley from ZZP, and that's it. I already have a 6 rib AC pulley. So annoying

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Is it walking on the damper, the AC pump or the alternator? One of them is not aligned correctly - is likely angled from the perpendicular to the belt track centerline. Measuring this is not an easy task. Sometimes its a matter of tweaking the alternator or AC pump position slightly - do only one at a time - and try it again. Hopefully someone else has a better way to check this.

 

[jirwin]

Thanks. I thought it was the alt so I adjusted it around a bit to no avail. It move on idler #2, the alt, the AC idler, and the damper all at the same time. As far as I can tell anyway. I can't start it and watch it at the same time

 

[jirwin]

Is the idler/tensioner on the stock LSJ ribbed?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Not sure - have LNF - which is smooth.