V1 Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

[jirwin]

Called Wiseco and I'm glad I did. They recommended between .0065 and .007 per inch for the top ring. Guess I'm taking them back out lol

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

If you're going to up the gap on the top ring closer to .070, you should probably also up the second ring too - looks like it should be .003ish wider gap. Always do the job right the first time, no matter how long it takes.

 

[Ross]

Since I don't know what your gaps currently are, I'm not sure if you need to re-gap the rings.
However I can try to help with the math.
2.2L engine has 88mm piston is 3.46457" in bore. Oops. See below... it is the 2.4L engine with the 88mm pistons.
2.2L engine has 86mm piston is 3.38583" in bore. Numbers below have been updated... now to 10 thousandth of an inch.

Mild Boost up to 15 PSI:
Top ring is .0055 multiplier, so 0.0186" total gap.
Secord ring is .0058 multiplier, so 0.0196" total gap.

Medium Boost, 15 to 30 PSI:
Top ring is .0070 multiplier, so 0.0237" total gap.
Secord ring is .0073 multiplier, so 0.0247" total gap.

 

[jirwin]

2.2 is actually 86mm and I'm running 86.5mm (3.405512"). I'm only running ~18 top ring right now so definitely too tight.

Thanks for the input guys

 

[jirwin]

One cylinder down, all I had time for tonight. Glad I decided to do this for multiple reasons though. I'm not exactly sure how, but I got oil all over the head gasket. I had a ton in the cylinders just to lube them up for install, so maybe that got in there somehow. The mating surface was oil free though.

 

[jirwin]

Rings regapped, head back on, and water pump chain installed tonight. I went to put the hydraulic lash adjusters (new) in tonight and ran into an issue. 5 of them would not "spring" when squeezed. I remember hearing somewhere to soak them in oil before install. I did that, but only for 20 minutes or so. I'm leaving them overnight now. Has anyone else ran into that?

 

[TravMac]

Ran into it on my engine maintenance a couple times. Might have to give it a swift tap with something to get it to activate. Squeezing isn't always enough

 

[OptimizePrime]

Kinda late but I (as an LNF) and Lechlis (as a high boost turbo lsj) both gapped ours to .06mm (.0236") without any issues. Calc is roughly 3.386 (bore) x.007 = .0237" as Ross mentioned.

Not sure on the lash adjusters, they should come already coated in oil - definitely let them soak and see if they'll break free with a little massaging.

I'd recommend a break-in oil like BR30 or conventional dino oil to bed these rings in for 500 miles. They're hard af and you actually need to drive the vehicle under load to get them to bed (can't just sit there and idle). Do not, under any circumstances, use synthetic oil until it's broken in - you'll wash your cylinders and never get them to bed. No boost but get to highish rpms and let it engine brake - don't be scared by a little smoke it's going to do it until they bed and you change oil.

If it's being a PITA and continues to smoke after it's fully warm and at idle after a solid engine brake, check your oil and if it smells like gas and/or it's more liquidy (you'll know what I mean) then change your oil before 500miles with the same weight/type of oil > give her some boost and pray to the engine gods.

 

[jirwin]

Thanks for the recommendations @OptimizePrime . I was wondering what I should do for a break in procedure. I have Comp Cams break in oil ready to go. What does "bedding" mean?

 

[OptimizePrime]

Getting the rings to seat / seal with the walls of your cylinders - kind of like your brake pads with the rotors. I don't know if that's the common term for it honestly, my smooth brain just went with it.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Kinda late but I (as an LNF) and Lechlis (as a high boost turbo lsj) both gapped ours to .06mm (.0236") without any issues. Calc is roughly 3.386 (bore) x.007 = .0237" as Ross mentioned.

Not sure on the lash adjusters, they should come already coated in oil - definitely let them soak and see if they'll break free with a little massaging.

I'd recommend a break-in oil like BR30 or conventional dino oil to bed these rings in for 500 miles. They're hard af and you actually need to drive the vehicle under load to get them to bed (can't just sit there and idle). Do not, under any circumstances, use synthetic oil until it's broken in - you'll wash your cylinders and never get them to bed. No boost but get to highish rpms and let it engine brake - don't be scared by a little smoke it's going to do it until they bed and you change oil.

If it's being a PITA and continues to smoke after it's fully warm and at idle after a solid engine brake, check your oil and if it smells like gas and/or it's more liquidy (you'll know what I mean) then change your oil before 500miles with the same weight/type of oil > give her some boost and pray to the engine gods.

A small sacrifice like a few 10mm sockets placed strategically into the engine compartment is often enough to curry their favor. And a dash of knuckle blood never hurt.

 

[jirwin]

ZZP said it was normal and that soaking them in oil can actually exacerbate the problem as they fill with oil. I think I'm just going to install as is and see if turning it over takes care of it.

Got all the timing done tonight. Tomorrow its on to the upgraded oil pump, timing cover, and maybe even the damper!

 

[jirwin]

Got a lot done over the weekend! The long block is completely dressed (intake, exhaust, coils/plugs, injectors). Waiting on flywheel bolts (thought I had them) and the transmission now.

I did run into an issue trying to put the damper on. I heated it in a propane oven I use for powdercoating, and started slipping it on (with anti-seize). Its going on straight, but the old crank bolt isn't long enough to thread in to pull the damper in. I hesitate to use a dead blow to knock it on any further, so I left it. I tried the Hobo Freight damper installer, but the way its designed won't work for much the same reason. I should be able to use the roller bearing press plate thing to push it on, but I'll need a longer bolt. Mid State Bolt & Screw to the rescue again! They're going to get me the same bolt (stock M14x1.5 ~115mm) but 45mm longer. I can shim with washers as needed to get the right length, but that should get me going again.

Hoping to have it in and running by the end of the week!!

 

[jirwin]

Damper and flywheel on. The damper was nerve-wracking, but it went on. The "jump" it took as I was tightening scared me a few times. Looks great though! Still waiting on the transmission and LSD. I'll bug the guy again today to see what's up. I'll do it myself if he's gunna take this long. "Have it done in a week" turned to "I'll start it (two weeks after I got it) Tuesday". Typical of shops though I guess

 

[jirwin]

In my quest to add an actual oil pressure sensor I noticed I don't have the dummy light sensor anymore. Shop must have taken it out when doing machining, because I don't have it. So I bought another one. M12x1.75 threads. I thought it would be easy to put a T right there and attach my new oil pressure sensor for the gauge in the same spot. Wrong! So hard to find an adapter! Adapters to the new sensors 1/8-27 NPT are fairly easy to find, but anything to go back is difficult. Open to suggestions there if anyone else has added an oil pressure sensor.

Related, does anyone know what the question mark pictured is? I assume its something since its shiny and not corroded like the rest of the block was.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

12x1.75mm or 12x1.5mm? 12x1.75mm is an uncommon size for fittings. 12x1.5mm is doable, Earl's Fittings has a male 12x1.5mm to AN8 fitting that could them be adapted to a Y.

 

[jirwin]

I thought the same thing, odd size:

 

[jirwin]

I wonder if it'll run without the dummy light sensor. If so I can skip it temporarily. I'd rather have oil pressure gauge for first start than the dummy light

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Found this from Autometer:
FITTING, ADAPTER, METRIC, M12X1.75 MALE TO 1/8" NPTF FEMALE, BRASS (autometer.com)

 

[Gtstorey]

Bosch SP0F000009 is an adapter kit that includes one of the fittings you need. Whole set is cheaper than buying one fitting from a lot of places/brands.