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V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

M
Just had a look at the old mount. I think the easiest is to press the rubber out and press a round piece of aluminum back in. I almost got the rubber out with some WD40 in my garage.
 
Desert Sasqwatch
If your engine is moving with solid mounts at the upper engine and transmission, then these mounts are being flexed and subject to metal fatigue over time. Because these are solid mounts it is highly recommended to have the lower front and rear mounts be solid also. Especially if you are making anything over a stock N/A 2.2.
 
Rttoys
If it’s solid on the side mounts, there shouldn‘t be much of any movement, but without other 2 mounts being solid, there could be some movement (flex). I would check bolt tightness on the side mounts and look for any cracking or fatigue. Also consider solid mounts from Df
 
M
I checked already for cracks, nothing to see. It's also hard to tell from the video how much it moved since the gopro has all kind of stabilization.

Isn't every goblin solid mounted at the upper mounting spots?
 
Markm
There was a goblin at goblinfest last year that he cracked the frame and welded it to repair it because he was using rubber mounts on the trans. I have both of the solid mounts for the f23 leftover cause I went with the tubular subframe
 
M
There was a goblin at goblinfest last year that he cracked the frame and welded it to repair it because he was using rubber mounts on the trans. I have both of the solid mounts for the f23 leftover cause I went with the tubular subframe
Ugh, really. If you think about it, I would think all mounts in a goblin, no matter which engine should be solid. I send you a message, if you want to sell the solid mounts let me know, otherwise I am building some.
 
M
you’ll feel a little vibration through the frame from it all being solid, but probably not much worse than it is now, since it’s half solid.
Ok Thanks for letting me know. I am most concerned about false knock, but since it's half solid, it might not make a difference.
 
Rttoys
Ugh, really. If you think about it, I would think all mounts in a goblin, no matter which engine should be solid. I send you a message, if you want to sell the solid mounts let me know, otherwise I am building some.
Take that with a grain of salt. The goblin in question is hammered on from the time it’s started, till it’s shut off. Something has to give. We pointed out quickly he needed solid mounts, though.
 
M
Yeah, at least I catched it before it came to any larger damage. Was planning to go AutoX this weekend, but I think it postpone it till October. Thankfully I did not put to much miles on the Goblin yet.
 
Rauq
 
M
There was a goblin at goblinfest last year that he cracked the frame and welded it to repair it because he was using rubber mounts on the trans. I have both of the solid mounts for the f23 leftover cause I went with the tubular subframe
I am having a bit anxiety at the moment and checked again all rear frame part and welds. I would think the cracks would develop close to the upper mounts. Where did the cracks develop at the frame of the guy at the goblinfest?
 
Rttoys
If I remember right it was on pass side at one of the corners, but you can look where I circled red
IMG_9543.jpeg
 
M
Ready to go for another test. Front mount is currently still a soft one, but I think 3 mounts will do it until I have build the front mount. If ever one wants to build one in a DIY way, the through hole is 2mm eccentric. There was no way that this assembly had 2mm play. That being said the force to tilt the engine like seen in the video must be enormous.

49024

49025
 
M
So frustrated. Had autoX in town today. Was ready to go, but looked at the rain forecast and decided to not go. Turned out to be a perfect day.

Continued to idle tune the car, even more frustrated. If I disable the MAF sensor it idles perfect, but as soon as I re-enable the MAF it starts funny things... :(
 
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