V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

[Rttoys]

since you are use to how your brakes are now, you will be absolutely amazed when all 4 are actually working.

It’s not hard to fab up your own lines, if that’s the way you want to go. Buy lines that already has the fittings you need, then you only need to cut and flare one end.

pro tip:
buy extra line, you’ll need it.

 

[mike_sno]

Yeah, the way I saw it yesterday: there is one line from the master cylinder to the front brass tee which has 2 different fittings on each side. I think on the Tee end it's M10x1. The other end I don't know.

My idea was

A: installing the valve at the end of the short line from the master cylinder and get a new short line both sides M10 from the autos store.

B using a M10 union and connect the short line from the master to a longer line and mount the valve reachable from the cockpit

C take the short line to the auto store, find out what the unknown fitting is, buy a longer pre-made line and cut one and to make a custom line + get a custom longer M10 line

C would be the nicest and cleanest
B I think is the way to go for me. Don't think a union makes a big hassle
A would be ok too but somehow I want the adjustment to be reachable.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Yeah, the way I saw it yesterday: there is one line from the master cylinder to the front brass tee which has 2 different fittings on each side. I think on the Tee end it's M10x1. The other end I don't know.

My idea was

A: installing the valve at the end of the short line from the master cylinder and get a new short line both sides M10 from the autos store.

B using a M10 union and connect the short line from the master to a longer line and mount the valve reachable from the cockpit

C take the short line to the auto store, find out what the unknown fitting is, buy a longer pre-made line and cut one and to make a custom line + get a custom longer M10 line

C would be the nicest and cleanest
B I think is the way to go for me. Don't think a union makes a big hassle
A would be ok too but somehow I want the adjustment to be reachable.

Be aware: I believe DF used both Bubble flare fittings(on the T junction to the front brakes) and Double flare fittings(Master cyl and brake hoses) on some units. You can get the tool that does both type of flares but the "Nut" devices (between the two types) are not the always the same angle on their compression end. Mixing them up has lead to leaks.

 

[mike_sno]

Be aware: I believe DF used both Bubble flare fittings(on the T junction to the front brakes) and Double flare fittings(Master cyl and brake hoses) on some units. You can get the tool that does both type of flares but the "Nut" devices (between the two types) are not the always the same angle on their compression end. Mixing them up has lead to leaks.

I guess there is no way to find out what they used on the T juntion of the front brakes. I think my best option is B. I use a Union to connect to the M10x1 side of the existing pipe and from there I extend it to the passenger room with 1 long pre-made brake line, connect to the valve and use one new line back.

 

[mike_sno]

I guess there is no way to find out what they used on the T juntion of the front brakes. I think my best option is B. I use a Union to connect to the M10x1 side of the existing pipe and from there I extend it to the passenger room with 1 long pre-made brake line, connect to the valve and use one new line back.

The recommended brake line from another thread is this one https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...eter-universal-fit-1-piece-cne-312/22190219-P It says bubble flare metric. Will get 2 of those in another length. I am getting this junction https://amzn.to/3ZZqRBq bubble flare and this valve https://amzn.to/4gHnEvT also bubble flare. The only unknown is the end of the DF Line to the Tee and the Tee itself. Hopefully its M10 bubble flare and I should be good to go.

 

[mike_sno]

The valve arrived today. I looked at the old fittings and it looks like there is some sort of thread lock or sealing compound on it. I thought they just seal with compression. Anyone a recommendation which one to use?

 

[Ross]

They do just seal with compression. I could understand using anti-seize lubricant on the threads, but I've never heard of a sealing compound for brake flair fittings.

 

[mike_sno]

Proportional Valve installed. I used an aluminum angle to mount the valve. I moved it all the way out to the center of the car. This way I thought I have less bending to do. Used some wire figuring out the line length. Ordered a 30 and 40 ft line. Tomorrow I won't have time, but hopefully Friday I can install and if the weather is good test it.

 

[Rttoys]

If the valve makes 10ish turns from closed to open, go about 7 turns out and test from there. You want the fronts to lock first, but it should be an instant ft/rear lock.

 

[mike_sno]

I wonder if i should test the distance needed from 50mph to 0 before and after. But I guess I'm to excited to plumb the valve in...

 

[Rttoys]

It would be cool to know the difference, but no need really. The first time you hit the brakes and the rear actually work, you’ll understand. Look at your rotors. Fronts will look bedded in nicely, the rear look “new”. Once you get the proper valve set, those rears will look like the front.

 

[mike_sno]

It would be cool to know the difference, but no need really. The first time you hit the brakes and the rear actually work, you’ll understand. Look at your rotors. Fronts will look bedded in nicely, the rear look “new”. Once you get the proper valve set, those rears will look like the front.

Reading the description of the valve, it goes from 0-57% reduction. Means I can always set it back to 0 and find out later.

 

[Rauq]

It would be cool to know the difference, but no need really. The first time you hit the brakes and the rear actually work, you’ll understand. Look at your rotors. Fronts will look bedded in nicely, the rear look “new”. Once you get the proper valve set, those rears will look like the front.

After my first season of driving, a couple thousand street miles and a handful of autocrosses, my rear pads looked like they'd barely been scuffed on the outer 1/3 of the diameter. After bias valve install and a single autocross + street miles there and back, they showed more engagement across the entire face than on the outer 1/3 previously.

 

[mike_sno]

Got everything ready. The prep made lines from the auto store looked like crap. I was expecting 2 almost prefect straight lines, but they liked all messed up. Got it all sorted out and debating if I should install tonight or tomorrow.

 

[SmsDetroit]

Plenty of time left this evening

 

[mike_sno]

The Tee is M10x1 as well as the master Cylinder. The Master Cylinder is Bubble Flare and matches the break lines I purchased. The other end of the short line from the Master Cylinder to the Tee is another ending. Had to change the plan and plumbed the new line from the Master Cylinder to the proportional valve. I noticed that the ends have 2 different length thread nuts. I put the long thread in the master cylinder and the shorter end in the proportional valve. Done! Hope that will seal.

Now the line back is making some trouble. I have to use the short original line from the Tee and extend it with the Union. However on the short line the nut is not long enough to compress the in the union.

 

[mike_sno]

The auto store picked the wrong brake line, I have to return it. They don't have M10 fittings at the end.

Anyway I might stop by at a car repair shop and let someone make me a 30in line and can avoid the union all together.

Here are the 2 ending the short line has.
Inverted/double Flare M10x1 at the Master cylinder

Bubble flare M10x1 at the Tee

 

[mike_sno]

Ugh, so it turned out that both sold lines from the autostore are wrong. Both lines are double/inverted flare. One has the right M10 nuts, the other one wrong nuts as well. Really... great job picking my order.

I removed the already installed line this morning and found out that the flares are wrong too.

So I am getting back to the store, and returning the lines.

The Tee is M10x1 Bubble Flare, the Master Cylinder M10x1 double/inverted flare. The wrench sizes are different, but the thread is the same.

 

[Rttoys]

This thread is helpful

V1 - Brake Line Fittings

Does anyone know the size and type of the brake lime fittings? Video shows 12mm for the lines, and 10/14mm for the master IIRC. Looking to install a line lock and will be needing to make some custom lines

dfkitcar.com

 

[Rttoys]

I usually ask to go in the back to their brake line section and grab what I want. Then you can sift through all the stuff they have.