V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

[mike_sno]

Two Topics:

I sprayed some more oil from outside on the shaft and made another drive. This time it was like the first time, I had boost all over. Please see attached logs.

I see a boost values up to17.27 psi at around 7000rpm. And its steady climbing, I believe more RPM would make more boost?

I also added an intercooler and but I am still missing a fan blowing over the radiator. The Intake Air Temp2 is in the 120-130F range. What do you guys have and is this dual pass ZZP Intercooler adapter worth the $199?

Last but not least, I made some 0-60runs. I created a small table and calculated the tires size,... My speedo is still not calibrated right. But I was able to pull times and rpms out of the log files and was able to even remove the time for shifting gears ( I am pretty slow, 0.9s )
The Gearbox has the ration which is in the picture below, so it's the standard F23. Ratio info from Wikipedia. 5th gear top speed at 7000 rpm with my tires 338mph So it's really a 4 speed with an additional 5th gear for cruise.

I will now increase the idle speed back to the standard and see that I get the Speedo dialed in correctly.

 

[mike_sno]

I forgot to mention! Now it's fun to drive! 1st gear wheelspin. 2nd gear at least some slip...

 

[mike_sno]

So, now you have your hoses hooked up properly, but do you have the by pass valve adjusted properly? There should be a set screw (stop/limit) for the flapper and there should be at least one mounting hole slotted for a fine tune adjustment. Also, unhook the by pass valve and operate the rod by hand. measure the travel. Then on the car place a zip tie on the shaft and as you drive it will move so you can measure the working travel of the shaft.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=SC+bypass+valve+adjustment&type=E210US370G91821#id=2&vid=869b643f45849e857b55744604ebecd9&action=click

Yes, the bypass valve is closed when it's on the set screw. However, I believe like @Rauq said, there might be another "soft" stop to limiting it of rotating more then 90deg. That's not happening with mine. It can rotate almost a full rotation. I might build me a 90 deg stop, maybe that's why it hangs sometimes.

Zip tie is a good idea! I will point my goprop on it. Like to focus on the roady while driving

 

[mike_sno]

VSS Pulses Per Rev should be 29 for any F23. The VSS Tire Revs per Mile and Pulses Per Mile may need to be updated for your tire size. Gear ratios don't matter in tune settings, the tone ring is on the outside of the differential so it's 1:1 on axle speed no matter the gear or gear ratio. Ratios are more relevant in acceleration, although there's only a 123 rpm difference between a 3.63 and 3.84 at 70 mph on a 25.5" tall tire for what it's worth.

I can't view your log (old HPT on my machine), but is that 19psi in MAP (absolute) or boost? Because 19psi MAP (absolute) is like 5psi boost.

This are my current settings:

I the VSS Tire Revs per mile should be also correct. The PCM Output Calibration, is that VSS Tire REvs per mils multiplied with VSS Pulses per Rev = 695,44*29 ? That would be 20,135

With the settings above the Speedo is around 10% to high.

 

[Chris_WNC]

Can you double check your rear tire size? Your original post has it listed as a 50 aspect ratio. You are using 60 in your calculations.

 

[mike_sno]

You are right. It's 50 not 60. Ugh... How stupid.

 

[mike_sno]

Well, then the 0-60 times are also wrong. I was wondering that I lost so much time with wheel spin in first great in compare to the LAP.

 

[jirwin]

Ratio info from Wikipedia. 5th gear top speed at 7000 rpm with my tires 338mph So it's really a 4 speed with an additional 5th gear for cruise.

Your math is wrong. Here is using the non XFE final drive:

I just didn't do the math on the tire diam, but you said 17" rim + 6" sidewall so I just took your word for it and put in 23". This looks about right though because I'm shifting out of third around 95

 

[Rauq]

Full disclaimer, I don't fully understand the difference between VSS Tire Revs per, and Pulses per... but I took my tune for 25.5" tall tires on a 3.84 F23 and used the Gear/Tire Calculator to change to a 27" tall tire (255*.5*2/25.4+17) and came up with the below.

 

[mike_sno]

Yes, aspect ratio is for sure wrong. Also 338 is kph not mph. And I see that your final drive is different. More investigations necessary.

 

[Rauq]

Just to reiterate (without suggesting that it's necessary), the final drive doesn't matter in the tune.

 

[mike_sno]

Full disclaimer, I don't fully understand the difference between VSS Tire Revs per, and Pulses per... but I took my tune for 25.5" tall tires on a 3.84 F23 and used the Gear/Tire Calculator to change to a 27" tall tire (255*.5*2/25.4+17) and came up with the below.

View attachment 44912

Yes, that looks close to what I have to put in. I corrected my calculation in my Excel with the right Aspect Ratio and also recalculated the 0-60times.

Agree, Apect Ratio is not important for the Tune, but was important for my excel to find out what gearbox I have.

Now, glad that it started raining in Florida. Will have to wait and see, but pretty confident, if i put the right numbers in the tune, the right output will be produced. Magic

I increased the idle speed as well! Now that ting is idling good!

My next issue is, that every time I flash the ECU the car is not starting and needs a few tries until it runs and maintains idle speed. Ugh, I used the TDN app on my phone, thought I would not need a laptop for logging. Now it seems like I need to buy another feature from HP Tuners

 

[Joebob]

I will start off with the statement that I am not an expert in tuning and learning the process myself but a few things stand out that you should be aware of:

• I don't think you are recording enough parameters to get an accurate picture of the engine performance. I am looking at more things such as VVT but you can see below what I am looking at.
• I would try to run with a laptop as the sampling rate is infinitely faster than self recording of the HPtuners dongle. More data points is more trust.
• You look to be running very lean in the upper power bands. Under CL, the O2 sensor compensates but once you are in PE and accelerating you are Open loop and the computer only puts out what the tune says to. It shows that you stay rich under WOT but without a wideband, you don't know how much and probably NOT the desired EQ ratio you ask for as you are lean before entering that area.
• You have a VERY large amount of Knock retard. I would look at a number of physical and tune reasons for it before too many WOT pulls. It may be true or false knock, but it is pulling tremendous amounts of timing out. See chart below.
• I would eliminate the bank 2 injector pulse width as it halves your injector duty cycle. Your showing 56% is really 112% duty cycle which might mean that you are exceeding the injector flow rates at the boost levels you are running.

Glad you are getting the boost control under control.

Logged parameter that I use with unneeded for you crossed out

Max timing reduction:

 

[Gtstorey]

Yes, use a lap top.

I would keep the throttle position, but the SAE throttle position usually doesn't work right on GM if there are other options available.

Keep the Control module voltage but you can turn the sampling rate down.

And yes, stop looking for boost until you go through a tuning guide. There is one here for the LSJ and I'm sure there is one buried on the HPT forums.

 

[mike_sno]

You guys are right. I wanted to ask if someone has a good channel set up he could email me. I changed it meanwhile a bit and removed some items my car does not even have. Logging with a cell phone or app is out of the question, since I would need to pay extra license fees.

I read somewhere in the forum that you can keep reuse the AC pressure sensor for a Widenband O2 sensor. I am looking for a wide band o2 sensor with an additional narrow band output. Any recommendation which brand/type to use? I think without wideband I don't even need to do anything...

I am still missing the complete understanding under which conditions MAF tuning, VE, Speed density,Dynamic Airflow,... is preferable. My main source is youtube and it feels like everyone has a different opinion on this topic. I am not at all a car mechanic, what I have done is way more than I ever wanted to do. However the tuning and software side is more mine, I just need to invest more time to research and do it. I think the really best source is this page http://www.hptuners.com/help/VCM-Editor/Content/vcm_editor/home.htm

The engine does not keep running after I flash the ECU. I need like 10 times until it some sort of idles. When I look at the Scanner data I see that the long term fuel trim in the 800rpm column and row 50 and 55 are active at that point and the number is -15 additional short term is adding -1. This tells me that something is wrong. I do believe it might be the best just getting back to the LSJ standard tune for the Stage 2. If I see how much better the car idles after I simply increased the idle back to standard.... From there I can still do all the stuff I want and have a safe set up for driving around. What I read so far, I am concerned that I make more damage driving with this tune than anything.

Then I can step by step gain experience and if I ever hit a hard stop, there is the opportunity to go with an after market ECU.


Anyway, Speedometer is spot on. Simply the Ratio was wrong.

 

[Ross]

I find that the Bosch wideband O2 sensor only last 4 to 6 months. I have bought 3 of them so far. So I wouldn't recommend combining it with a narrow band O2, as that seems to last a long time. I know welding in a 2nd bung is a pain, but it might be cheaper in the long run.

I tuned my MAF first, (about 20 rides & tunes), then did the VE tuning second. I followed Goat Rope Garage on YouTube, Generation 3 tuning.

 

[mike_sno]

• You have a VERY large amount of Knock retard. I would look at a number of physical and tune reasons for it before too many WOT pulls. It may be true or false knock, but it is pulling tremendous amounts of timing out.

Now a couple of questions :

1. Could it be possible that I have more knock due to the head being decked? I measured the compression of the engine last night. I have 3x120psi and 1x105psi. Autozone says on their website that 15-20% is ok and no cylinder should be below 100psi. Based on that I'm fine?!? Will do the oil test now to see if it's a piston ring or valve problem.

2. Is my compression increased in compare to the standard LSJ?

3. Is my intake Temp 2 to high? My intercooler radiator is not being active cooled at the moment. Fan is still missing.

 

[mike_sno]

Disregard the compression test results, I did it when the engine was cold. Just heard it needs to be done when at operating temperature.

 

[jirwin]

What fuel are you running and how much did you deck the head

 

[mike_sno]

I run 93. Will see if I have some higher octane fuel at a gas station somewhere around me, but until then 93.

Head was warped 0.011in. Not sure how much they took of but I wouldn't think more than necessary.