• We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.

V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

M
Do you have your wideband gauge visible from the driver's seat?

The ECU uses the stock narrowband O2 sensor like a switch, either the engine is above stoich, or below. If below stoich, say .99 lambda, then it will reduce the injectors, and then it goes above stoich, say 1.01 lambda, and it increases the injectors. Normal engine is constantly going above and below stoichiometric.
I don't have a wide band sensor yet. Have to buy one.

Understood, even if the narrow band reports an analog signal back, the ECU just has it programmed to use it as a digital signal. What voltage indicates a stoich afr? 0.5V?
 
Joebob
One thing to note as you flash changes to the ECU is to also clear the LTFT from memory so that you are not trying to start the car on the old trims with the new revised airflow/fuel parameters. They will fight each other until the car relearns and overwrites the LTFT.
 
M
One thing to note as you flash changes to the ECU is to also clear the LTFT from memory so that you are not trying to start the car on the old trims with the new revised airflow/fuel parameters. They will fight each other until the car relearns and overwrites the LTFT.
That's what I thought and which made me believe that there is something wrong with the MAF calibration.
 
A
I think I'll buy this wide band set up. It comes with a sensor, gauge and controller. It has 2x configure analog outputs one can be narrow band and one wide band. Plus serial for read out in the laptop. Guess I have to built a windows based car PC to not always have my laptop in the car.

Pawn shops have great deals on laptops! You probably need one that is not very new and you prolly will not need a million Gigs of memory. The kind of stuff that is getting dusty at a pawn shop. We are talking the $59.95 special, with bag!

Also a great place for tools that you THINK you are only going to use ONCE. Because of my limited space life I occasionally buy some tools at pawn shops and, if I don't gift them to the RV park maintenance guys, I sell them back to the pawn shop. It's cheaper than rental! Or I leave it by the dumpster with a sign that says "works".(good for my "Car"ma)
 
Joebob
I think I'll buy this wide band set up. It comes with a sensor, gauge and controller. It has 2x configure analog outputs one can be narrow band and one wide band. Plus serial for read out in the laptop. Guess I have to built a windows based car PC to not always have my laptop in the car.

Are you running a cat? Your logs show two O2 signals. If you have no cat, then use the downstream O2 sensor location for your wideband and not worry about trying to simulate a narrowband for the ECU. I wired my wideband into the A/C pressure sensor wiring and from there made math parameters to log the A/C pressure and convert it to lambda/AFR to log and tune with. Having the gage at the dash helps you see in real time if you are in or out of your target range.

Joe
 
M
Yes, currently I still have a cat. I have 2 sensor. Spend all day working on a decent HP Tuner Scanner layout. And made sure that OSB1S1 is before the cat.

I will try to calibrate the MAF sensor with my narrow band sensor. But doing it in steps. Focusing first on the RPM range 800-2500.

44961
 
Joebob
Set up your polling channels to cover your planned tables to modify such as MAF Hz. And adjust graphs with the channels and labels to match the tables in the tune such as spark with RPM vs Cylinder fill. That way you can cut and paste the errors into your tables to adjust.

44966



44965


Good luck.

Joe
 
M
Hmm, I think my MAF Sensor is damaged. I disables all the things Goat Rope and High Performance Academy on youtube said. But my MAF Sensor is only reading 0.24lb/min and no HZ output. Then I checked the old logs and same thing, it never showed a HZ and flow is constant around 0.24 or 0.25 lb/min.
 
Rauq

You can tune the MAF using the narrowband O2 but only if the computer is commanding 14.7 AFR (staying out of Power Enrichment). Theoretically you can cover a lot of the MAF curve (and the VE table) without getting into PE, but as soon as you do, tuning by fuel trims is pointless.

Sounds like there are still a few things to figure out, like making sure you're getting good MAF readings, but at this point I'd be looking at doing your own baseline tuning vs trying GMS2 vs your as-found vs anyone else's setups. Let us know if/how you want us to point you down that road.

You're going to need a wideband O2 sooner or later if you want to do your own tuning, so might as well set that up now. You can tune for cruising around town without one but you have to have one to tune for going fast.

It's generally inadvisable to use a wideband as a narrowband emulator. It's a less reliable setup and folks have run into issues with the narrowband emulator not responding quite like a real narrowband and throwing the computer for a (bad) loop.
 
M

You can tune the MAF using the narrowband O2 but only if the computer is commanding 14.7 AFR (staying out of Power Enrichment). Theoretically you can cover a lot of the MAF curve (and the VE table) without getting into PE, but as soon as you do, tuning by fuel trims is pointless.

Sounds like there are still a few things to figure out, like making sure you're getting good MAF readings, but at this point I'd be looking at doing your own baseline tuning vs trying GMS2 vs your as-found vs anyone else's setups. Let us know if/how you want us to point you down that road.

You're going to need a wideband O2 sooner or later if you want to do your own tuning, so might as well set that up now. You can tune for cruising around town without one but you have to have one to tune for going fast.

It's generally inadvisable to use a wideband as a narrowband emulator. It's a less reliable setup and folks have run into issues with the narrowband emulator not responding quite like a real narrowband and throwing the computer for a (bad) loop.
That is what I tried earlier, I deactivated pretty much everything which could command anything else than 14.7. But like I said, the car was not starting, maybe because of the damaged Fuse.

My first goal is just to have a healthy tune which does not damage the engine. I am less concerned at the moment about the last bit of power.

So, get the knock out would be my first goal. However, I don't even have an idea if some knock retard is ok,... Simply 0 experience is meeting HP Tuners.

I will get a wideband, but that thing has for sure a couple days delivery time and I have some business trips coming up. So will be a little while before I can get to it.

Besides all the engine, Now I need to figure out how to make this car stable when I get off throttle and be above 70mph. Getting pretty quick now to 70+mph.
 
Joebob
Besides all the engine, Now I need to figure out how to make this car stable when I get off throttle and be above 70mph. Getting pretty quick now to 70+mph.

Make sure your rear control arms are tight. I found you can rock the car forwards and back with the parking brake on. As you push and pull on the frame, check for the control arms moving in and out of the rear subframe. Under braking/coasting, this play adds toe out which is unstable. You can also dial a little bit more negative toe on the rear as well to help control.

Joe
 
G
I don’t see how moving the wheels out could change the stability much.

Alignment, better bushings in the rear control arms, adjustable eps, maybe rear sway bar.
 
Back
Top