V1 Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Keep in mind that the suspension setup needs to be made with an equivalent weight in the seat(s) that will be relatively the same as your normal driving load. If it is just you, then use your weight on the driver's side to get your camber and toe set properly. Not doing this will make one side more out of the optimum geometry once it is weighted and unbalance the suspension.

Chaning degrees into inches will depend upon the diameter of your tires. there was a chart on the web, but I can't find it again. Maybe try Dr. Google to see if you can locate it?

 

[mike_sno]

Keep in mind that the suspension setup needs to be made with an equivalent weight in the seat(s) that will be relatively the same as your normal driving load. If it is just you, then use your weight on the driver's side to get your camber and toe set properly. Not doing this will make one side more out of the optimum geometry once it is weighted and unbalance the suspension.

Chaning degrees into inches will depend upon the diameter of your tires. there was a chart on the web, but I can't find it again. Maybe try Dr. Google to see if you can locate it?

Yeah good point. Need to put some weight in the driver seat.

Exactly, if someone speaks about 1/8in at a 17in rim it's different to a 15in rim. Anyway, if I calculate the difference, it's like .1 degree. That is in the tolerance of my measuring tools. I will just set it to 1/8in (3.175mm) per wheel which brings it to 0.4213degree.

 

[Ross]

If you put toe plates (or a straight stick) across the rear tires, and measure the rear width, on both sides of the tire, you get the rear tow in.
Basically the 1/8" is across the 26" tire width.

 

[Dale E]

Search string method alignment. Now, first you have to have your wheels/tires squared to the chassis/frame. To do that you use the string method (or laser) -- or as Lonny does it, measure from a chassis/frame/cradle point to the tow plate or board against the tire. Make sure the tires are the same pressure or your measurements might be off by a bit due to deflection. I think Lonny uses (on the rear) a long level and measures to the chassis/frame at the roll bar point or the center tunnel side. Ask the designer his technique.

Say you measure from the cradle to the toe plate 20 inches. the other side should be 20 inches to square the tires to the chassis. Otherwise you can set the toe but you will still possibly have some crab walk steering built in.

After you have the tires squared, then you can set the toe. 1/8th inch is total so 1/16th each tire. ?? You don't need weight in the seat for toe measurements (take it to an alignment shop do they set in it, put weight in it - nope!) To corner balance you need drivers weight in car.

Your Goblin may have the same track width as the Cobalt +- 58.7 inches. This is tire center to tire center. Mark the center of the tires and measure the toe there. Example: On my Stalker V6 the track is 53.5 inches. I set and check my toe in/out with a 1x2 board with gutter spikes at 53.5 inches. Setting that at the center of my front tires my toe is 0. If I move it to an 1/8th either way it is toe in or out. The back of the tire will also move in relation to the front. So measure front and back of tires. Yeah - old school way versus alignment shop stick the mirror on and watch the laser dot.

Stand at the back of you car. Look down the rear tires to the front ones. You can visualize if they are fairly squared and if your camber is off. Old school for camber is a carpenters square set on a level floor/surface and against the tire. Measure the gap at the top of the tire each side. A quarter taped to the disc rotor will be about .5 tilt (camber) if you bolted the wheel and tire on.

Suspension stuff is fun!! A lot of different variables to consider if your serious about handling.

But, then again I might be wrong. Seek professional help!

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Because the rear suspension has a tie rod for toe alignment, changes to the suspension height will impart changes to the toe during travel. Setting toe and then loading the chassis with (driver's) weight on only one side will cause the toe (mostly on that side) to be different under normal driving conditions. Acceleration, braking, and steering forces also load the suspension causing changes in toe. Mike's problem is occurring under deceleration and braking, unloading the rear suspension, which is likely causing toe changes - and different for each side since the driver's side is weighted (and the neutral alignment was not made with this weight in the car). 200 lbs in an 1800 lb car is a high percentage (11%) and it can make a difference when making suspension alignment for go-fast 'feel'.

 

[Robinjo]

On mine, i did everything in mm with equivalent weight in the driver's seat. When doing the toe adjustment in the front, I have to get my wife to hold the wheel as it'll try to move. I do all my measuring with a string, as below. This is where I've found mine to be the most stable (so far). At some point I'd like to get it on an alignment rack, but this has worked thus far well. This is for a 95% street driven vehicle, if it was an autocross vehicle it would need to be very different.

Front
-0.3 degree camber
0mm toe

Rear
Camber is just what it is.
0.5mm toe in

 

[Gtstorey]

If by the "hold the wheel as it'll try to move" you mean the steering wheel, tie down straps can be used to lock it in place.

 

[Robinjo]

If by the "hold the wheel as it'll try to move" you mean the steering wheel, tie down straps can be used to lock it in place.

This is true as well. My wife is just the easier option.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Plus having his wife in the driver's seat adds a tiny, little, itty-bitty amount of weight for the balance. (Did I make it clear that I would in no way indicate that anyone's wife - or any woman for that matter - would be used for ballast to make up for the actual weight needed to make the alignment accurate)...

 

[ah.b.normal]

Plus having his wife in the driver's seat adds a tiny, little, itty-bitty amount of weight for the balance. (Did I make it clear that I would in no way indicate that anyone's wife - or any woman for that matter - would be used for ballast to make up for the actual weight needed to make the alignment accurate)...

"a tiny, little, itty-bitty amount" said the very frightened man.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Papa sqwatch knows enough not to provoke any mama sqwatch - any.

 

[mike_sno]

On mine, i did everything in mm with equivalent weight in the driver's seat. When doing the toe adjustment in the front, I have to get my wife to hold the wheel as it'll try to move. I do all my measuring with a string, as below. This is where I've found mine to be the most stable (so far). At some point I'd like to get it on an alignment rack, but this has worked thus far well. This is for a 95% street driven vehicle, if it was an autocross vehicle it would need to be very different.

Front
-0.3 degree camber
0mm toe

Rear
Camber is just what it is.
0.5mm toe in

Great video! I watched a similar one, but the one you posted is quite a bit better. And thanks for the alignment data. I have quite a bit more toe, hope that will solve my issue.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Papa sqwatch knows enough not to provoke any mama sqwatch - any.

Fear of death is an excellent motivator!

 

[Robinjo]

Great video! I watched a similar one, but the one you posted is quite a bit better. And thanks for the alignment data. I have quite a bit more toe, hope that will solve my issue.

It may and it may not. It's just something to try out and hopefully gets a good result. The front splitter helped my higher speed stability a lot, too. The alignment is a big part also.

 

[mike_sno]

From what I can read, an NGK 6 and Denso 20 heat range are comparable and are hotter than NGK 7 and Denso 22. I can't say whether it will solve anything, but ZZP, Intense, OTTP, and others use a plug with a heat range one step colder (NGK 7/Denso 22) than stock with their LSJ Stage kits.

Can you share the exact Number of the NGK 7 or Denso 22? Just want to make sure I order the right ones. I could not really find a NGK 7, Just this one NGK 7092 https://www.ngk.com/ngk-7092-bkr6egp-g-power-platinum-spark-plug

 

[mike_sno]

Found it. https://www.ngk.com/heat-range-conversion-chart-2 and https://www.ngk.com/ngk-spark-plug-numbering-systems explains everything

 

[Rauq]

NGK 4644 BKR7E is the NGK heat range 7 plug for an Ecotec. Denso says K22PR-U is its equivalent.

 

[mike_sno]

I read about the heat range of a sparce plug and its influence. https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/spark-plug-basics explains it well. I think it makes sense, cooler sparce plugs pull more heat out of the engine, keeps the air gas mixture cooler and less likely to knock. I'll get me a set of them.

If I set the car filter on the ngk website to the cobalt Ss it says, if doesn't fit. I guess that's because the heat range is not standard, but physically it'll fit?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Almost all automotive spark plugs fall into one of these categories:

If the thread size is the same the other factors - reach, tip, etc. - needs to be the same or close to be applicable.

 

[Rauq]

The part numbers for the 2.2L and 2.0L Fuel pumps are different, at least on Rockauto. So let me know what you have.

The upgraded pump that I thought I needed has a separate second outlet to feed a venturi pump. My old stock pump does not have that. If you're going to upgrade your pump and want to make sure you get the right one, pull the bucket and take a look at the bottom. If it just has a screen filter, then the LSJ pump should be a drop-in replacement. If not, your upgrade would be this new Racetronix pump I have and didn't use. Let me know if you want one or the other.

Venturi:

Non-venturi: