V1 ncgoblin's Build Thread - 2005 SS/SC North Carolina

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Permanent marker fix - make the 'E' an 'F' and the 'F' an 'E'?!?

 

[ncgoblin]

Permanent marker fix - make the 'E' an 'F' and the 'F' an 'E'?!?

I’m almost at that point. So I think I found the problem the tune that was loaded on my car was probably newer then 05 and this is one of the common issues.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/fuel-gauge-reading-backwards-282984/

 

[Ross]

What is your reference low voltage reading?
It is 5V instead of 0V it would reverse the gauge reading, like you are experiencing.

 

[ncgoblin]

The re-tune from 06 back to 05 fixed all issues of fuel gauge showing empty when full and limp mode when low fuel warning comes up.

 

[ncgoblin]

Hey all last year I was driving down the road and was losing power then a huge puff of black smoke came out the rear and the engine cut off. I ran a leak down test and cylinder #2 and #3 would leak. I removed the head last night and noticed this engine has been sleeved from the previous owner. I also noticed some gaps in the head gasket let me know if you see something that stands out. My ultimate goal with this engine is 300whp.

If you have seen my previous posts I have had some headaches with these used engines lately. I have some options please correct me if I am wrong.

1. I could install all the upgrades in the photo below and exclude the block to save money but I have no idea what pistons were installed and how reliable the sleeves are. Obviously this would save $1700 I would replace the bearings at minimum.
2. Purchase block, disregard the upgraded cams and balance shafts and keep 2.9 pulley.
3. Purchase all parts in photo. Have an experienced engine builder assemble everything.
4. Purchase all parts in photo. Machine the head and assemble myself. I have already purchased all the tools and engine assembly lube.

What do you guys think? Also should I stick with 2.9 pulley or 2.7 with e85? I already have the #60 injectors and I primarily auto cross so gas options is not a problem.

 

[JSATX]

I’m sure someone else can chime in but those def look like the factory cylinder bores to me.

 

[ncgoblin]

I’m sure someone else can chime in but those def look like the factory cylinder bores to me.

With a feeler gauge they measure 85.4mm

 

[Karter2026]

I’m sure someone else can chime in but those def look like the factory cylinder bores to me.

Look like factory to me also . Here some pics of my stock bores.

 

[ncgoblin]

I have finished the LDK block with LSJ head and currently running Comp break in oil for roughly 200-300 miles. The LDK block has only a few galley holes pre drilled for an oil pressure sender so I used the one right below the exhaust header and it works great with a brass crush washer. The engine is idling after warm around 32psi. Driving it’s about 55 to 80 psi with the break in oil. Better then faulty bearings and worn crank at 18-22 psi idling.

I swapped the LDK pistons and rods out of the new block to Diamond 9.5:1 compression with factory LSJ rods. I do not plan to run over 400HP so the stock rods are fine. Jeffrey who I purchased the block from also cut the neutral balance shafts and built a custom dual bypass. I do plan to purchase the ZZP #82 springs/retainers shortly. At this point though I am enjoying the 2.8 pulley and reliability. Next up is wiring the serial of the AEM wideband to USB for HP tuners so I can gather some better tuning data. My goal this summer is optimization of the goblin and next year a bit more power gains up to the 300HP mark that I feel is a good reliability mark.

 

[ncgoblin]

Does anyone know the size of the supplied black rivets for the side panels? I cannot seem to find any locally. Looks like amazon is my best bet.
Thanks

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

0.125 inch or 1/8.

Edit: Sorry, I grabbed the wrong bag. Thanks Lonny for not letting me steer him in the wrong direction.

 

[Lonny]

Side panels are 3/16, we can sell you some.
Pack of 30 is $2.50 plus shipping.

 

[ncgoblin]

Side panels are 3/16, we can sell you some.
Pack of 30 is $2.50 plus shipping.

Lonny I’ll pm you my info that’s awesome deal I appreciate it.

 

[ncgoblin]

This week I had the opportunity to test out my new heat exchanger setup that @ctuinstra has a write-up on. This setup is great I have seen 20-30F drop in IAT2 temps while cruising compared to the DF Supplied heat exchanger. Yesterday the temp was average 92-95 ambient and the engine was averaging 125-140 with multiple boost pulls on e85. On 25MPH cruising the temps rise to about 150-160F but dip fast on acceleration or while stopping.

I am contemplating purchasing a ZZP Intake Spacer to seperate the heat transfer wondering what you all think of this option?

LSJ Phenolic Intake Spacer

A hot engine heats up the air that is flowing through your intake. The engine is aluminum, as is the intake and they conduct heat very well. Your 180 deg engine adds unwanted heat to the LIM which houses the intercooler. That is why you need to upgrade with our ZZP LSJ phenolic spacer. A cooler...

zzperformance.com

 

[ncgoblin]

I just purchased a TVS1320 supercharger and am estimating with the existing modifications the engine will output roughly 350hp. With initial research it seems others have went with the GMPP clutch with similar output. I would like to hear your all opinions on the GMPP?

I am also contemplating the LS4 throttle body but with the goblin already being highly sensitive in first gear am leaning towards remaining on the LSJ throttle body.

I will be purchasing the ZZP Aluminum Flywheel mostly because the friction surface can be replaced. This will add to the sensitivity of the throttle.

Regarding my tune up to this point I have had ZZP adjust the tune for the e85 and 870cc injectors does anyone have knowledge of the effort it is to adjust for this new charger? I have HP Tuners and it would be great if I could save a bit of $$ on a revision tune.

Any opinions welcome thanks all!

 

[Ross]

I had to retune my engine, after my summer tune was working well, and winter provided me with extra dense air, and the engine was able to intake more air than I had tuned for. (Almost the same as an oversize supercharger, at least as far as tuning goes.)

Your current tune will work fine, up until you use your TVS1320 at new pressure levels, then you will be into the area of the tune that is un-tested.
Usually the tune will go beyond the current pressure levels, so you might not need any tuning... but then you might be at way higher pressures and need tuning. Won't take too long to add to the MAF and VE tune... well, at least if you know what your doing. You have done 20+ tunes with ZZP, so I know you have the test runs/data collection down. Not sure if you have added the data into the tune, but I have, and can walk you thru that process.

Jermey (JERMzSS) had heat soak with his TVS... kind of overwhelmed the stock intercooler.

I've heard the LS4 barely adds any more capacity to the intake, and can be more work tuning than it is worth.

 

[ncgoblin]

I had to retune my engine, after my summer tune was working well, and winter provided me with extra dense air, and the engine was able to intake more air than I had tuned for. (Almost the same as an oversize supercharger, at least as far as tuning goes.)

Your current tune will work fine, up until you use your TVS1320 at new pressure levels, then you will be into the area of the tune that is un-tested.
Usually the tune will go beyond the current pressure levels, so you might not need any tuning... but then you might be at way higher pressures and need tuning. Won't take too long to add to the MAF and VE tune... well, at least if you know what your doing. You have done 20+ tunes with ZZP, so I know you have the test runs/data collection down. Not sure if you have added the data into the tune, but I have, and can walk you thru that process.

Jermey (JERMzSS) had heat soak with his TVS... kind of overwhelmed the stock intercooler.

I've heard the LS4 barely adds any more capacity to the intake, and can be more work tuning than it is worth.

Thanks @Ross your the first person ill reach out to when I finish the TVS install and phenolic spacer to gather some good data. I have upgraded the intercooler to a larger one take a look at my last post its great as long as I am moving. What are your thoughts on installing fans worth it? Since the clutch is still reliable I will start tuning with this clutch while I wait for the GMPP setup what can it hurt

 

[Ross]

I see you upgraded the heat exchanger... but the Cobalt intercooler is in the intake, under the supercharger.
That thing with ZZP dual pass and 4 laminova tubes in it.

Hopefully your heat exchanger upgrade is enough to keep intake temps under control.

I have never run the heat exchanger with the fan, I hung it on the roll bar, where it is up in the fresh air, like you did. Watch your IAT temperatures, and you know if any fan installs are needed.