V1 Nuker's City Goblin build - 2007 SS SC Donor - Completed/Licensed

[TheNuker]

How are you guys removing the AC compressor and rerouting the belt?

Thanks!
Jordan

 

[AleX1/9]

How are you guys removing the AC compressor and rerouting the belt?

Thanks!
Jordan

I have the same question!

I did some research a while back and came to the conclusion (from what I could find on the web) that there isn't a good way of routing a new belt without that pulley there (at least on the supercharged cars i hear the turbo cars are easy). I found some references to an AC delete pulley that looks like a gutted compressor:



I'm thinking about just making a custom pulley/mount that would take up less real estate.

Does anyone have access to a belt routing diagram so we can be sure? or better yet, a supercharged motor, with AC compressor removed, and some rope?!

 

[BAR-AIR]

Here are a couple photos of the mount before I cleaned it up (surfaced the front) and drilled. In the end, the two alternator bolts go through this side of the mount the one going through the block of aluminum the other going through the aluminum angle the actual pulley is bolted into the front face (left side in picture). Only images I took before finishing and mounting (not the greatest). Was not able to get a better in the car.

Here is the routing I used on a 2.2 with the ZZPerformance supercharger. The pulley between the alternator and the supercharger is a 2.5" with a custom mount attaching to the upper two alternator bolts (NOTE: those bolts are NOT parallel to the plain of that pulley). I believe Adam made up a similar mount on his. Seeing that both GM and ZZPerformance are stopping production of new superchargers I think Adam and crew are going to be more focused on the turbo ecotec in the future.

 

[AleX1/9]

The lsj has a different tensioner and pulley setup than the 2.2 / 2.4 motors.



You could make a similar custom mount / pulley to replace the AC pump, or try to convert to the 2.2 style tensioner. I Really don't like either of those options and will be gutting and trimming the AC pump for 75% of the weight savings at maybe 1/10 the effort. and there's no worries about parts or reliability with OE setup

 

[DanPerryy]

Here are a couple photos of the mount before I cleaned it up (surfaced the front) and drilled. In the end, the two alternator bolts go through this side of the mount the one going through the block of aluminum the other going through the aluminum angle the actual pulley is bolted into the front face (left side in picture). Only images I took before finishing and mounting (not the greatest). Was not able to get a better in the car.View attachment 385 View attachment 384 View attachment 383 Here is the routing I used on a 2.2 with the ZZPerformance supercharger. The pulley between the alternator and the supercharger is a 2.5" with a custom mount attaching to the upper two alternator bolts (NOTE: those bolts are NOT parallel to the plain of that pulley). I believe Adam made up a similar mount on his. Seeing that both GM and ZZPerformance are stopping production of new superchargers I think Adam and crew are going to be more focused on the turbo ecotec.

Do you worry about belt slippage and squeal for the alternator when the battery is hard charging? The small pulley on the alternator. The stock engines have tons of wrap.

 

[AleX1/9]

Dan it looks like you wrote your comment inside BAR-AIR's quote. Took me a minute to see your comment on the amount of alternator pulley belt wrap. I had the same reaction, but ZZP's supercharger kit for the 2.2 uses the same configuration and I'm sure it's been OK considering they still sell it (minus the m62 blower)





Plus the electrical load will be far less on a goblin vs. the cobalt.

Note to Nuker! Sorry about the thread jack this info doesn't apply to your LSJ. Let us know what you end up doing with the AC pump.

 

[TheNuker]

Going to start tackling the electrical next weekend. NOT looking forward to that....

But tonight my brother and I are starting to clean the sub frame so that we can paint it tomorrow gloss black + a clear coat.

After the sub frame is done we are going to wire brush the whole engine/tranny and paint and clear coat it in a high temp paint.

Getting excited, Just hope I have the funds to get this done by next spring!

Nuker-

 

[TheNuker]

Has anyone put an adtermarket exhaust manifold on their lsj SC? I was wanting to replace mine as it is rusted to h lol lol.

Nuker

 

[Adam]

I'd recommend this header: ZZP Shorty Header. ZZP also has a mid length header but it might be too long and stick out of the back of the Goblin.

We've purchased two shorty headers from BadMab Industries and they were both cracked. Buy at your own risk.

 

[TheNuker]

Thanks, Adam! Hopefully the zzp shorty will be back in stock soon. Working on cleaning and replacing parts as needed on the engine. Hoping to get GMPP clutch kit and Aluminum flywheel in the next couple weeks.

Nuker-

 

[Johvans]

I'd recommend this header: ZZP Shorty Header. ZZP also has a mid length header but it might be too long and stick out of the back of the Goblin.

We've purchased two shorty headers from BadMab Industries and they were both cracked. Buy at your own risk.

Talking with the guys at ZZP the mid length header stops before the edge of the sub frame. Not sure if this would allow you to do anything with it like turn into a 90 or something and back up, but it may be worth the call.

 

[TheNuker]

I'm going to replace the front (rear on goblin) shocks/struts. Does anyone have any suggestions for a brand to replace with? I was looking at these http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...88969&ef_id=V8ctbgAAACsFZVZu:20161003202209:s

Thanks!
Nuker-

 

[AleX1/9]

I'm going to replace the front (rear on goblin) shocks/struts. Does anyone have any suggestions for a brand to replace with? I was looking at these http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?gclid=

Nuker-

When I was looking around it seemed all the OE type struts came from KYB, Gabriel/Monroe, and General Motors.... I've had good experiences with all those brands. They will all likely perform about the same and have a similar level of quality.

If you're looking to upgrade as well as replace the only ones I found available were the Koni yellows. They are more expensive and require extra work to install, but are far superior to the OE-type options.

 

[BAR-AIR]

I'm not sure of the differences in the struts. But with the OE style struts you are going to have to cut one of the coils off each of the springs. The goblin is way too light compared to the Cobalt (as per Adam). Even with the reduced springs the suspension is real stiff. With that said, the struts you are looking at are about $300.00 that is nearly half of the way to a set over coilovers and you would have adjustability with them. I went with a cheaper set of OE struts and cut the donor cars springs. That way I can play with the spring lengths and if I don't like the ride I still have the original springs that came with the struts or go to coilovers and I'm still not out a lot of money in the struts.

THX, Bruce

 

[TheNuker]

Finally got the sub-frame all stripped and repainted.

 

[BAR-AIR]

Looks good!!
Just a heads up the donor's car radiator brackets will need to come off. And initially Adam was not recommending running the sway bar. (That has been my only complaint with Adam and the guys is the lack of instructions. There is nothing more frustrating then having to redo or mess something up just because of the lack of knowledge being shared and they are the only ones that have complete a complete kit).
THX, Bruce

 

[TheNuker]

Can you point out which are the radiator brackets are at on the sub-frame? Thankfully I have not clear coated the paint yet so I can still touch it up after taking bolts out. What is the current recommendation on the sway bar? the stock shocks that you run in the back had a sway bar connection rod if you remove the sway bar you just don't need that bar connection?

Thanks BAR-AIR!

Nuker-

 

[Johvans]

Can you point out which are the radiator brackets are at on the sub-frame? Thankfully I have not clear coated the paint yet so I can still touch it up after taking bolts out. What is the current recommendation on the sway bar? the stock shocks that you run in the back had a sway bar connection rod if you remove the sway bar you just don't need that bar connection?

Thanks BAR-AIR!

Nuker-

Last I spoke to Adam they recommended running the sway bars for racing (autocross/track) as it helps the car rotate.

I believe they were just disconnecting one end when they were on the road. Hopefully Adam can chime in.

John

 

[BAR-AIR]

Good Morning,

I didn't have any good photos of the support in the car. But hopefully this one will help. I am home tonight I will try to get a couple of photos of it up in the car. As for the sway bars, I am keeping all the hardware and the two that I have (original donors support was scuffed up so I replaced with a support from an SS -so a 3/4" dia. and a 1" dia. Sway bar). They can easily be installed at a latter time if necessary. I don't think any of the running kits have them installed yet.

Bruce

 

[Adam]

The rear anti-roll bar can be useful for really tight autocrosses to help the car rotate but on road courses or the street, it will make the car more tail happy/loose. The car is more balanced running without the rear bar.