V1 ToothMagician's Full Cage Country Goblin #493 - '06 SS LSJ Turbo donor

[mike_sno]

Wrapping up the last parts of the goblin, but I've got some roadblocks I need help with:
4. Brake lights are always in, thinking maybe bad pedal switch?

Does it go off, when you pull the plug from the brake pedal?

PS: Just saw it on your pictures. Several forum members have flipped the damper. Makes them easier to adjust later on.

 

[Rttoys]

Adjust the brake switch. They are easy to move when doing all the transferring and such.

 

[Traé]

Wrapping up the last parts of the goblin, but I've got some roadblocks I need help with:

1. How many turns for the front control arm spherical rod ends. Is it 4 turns for all 12, then align from there? Also looks super toe out on 8–12 threads from the steering tie rod. Is that normal?
2. Installing corbeau seats, brackets, and harnesses. Can someone give me a detailed run-down of this because I had the brackets in first in the widest location, and they weren't even close to fitting. I think they all face the tunnel? I know the nut in the tunnel doesn't fit the provided bolts from corbeau either. What's an easy solution for this? Are the seatbelts installed first, then brackets, then seats?
3. I have a long blue wire that I don't know what it goes to, hanging out where the tail light wires are
4. Brake lights are always in, thinking maybe bad pedal switch?

Long blue wire is the 3rd Brake Light wire, this is saved and used to allow cruise control to function.

 

[Markm]

I did four turns out on the inner rods ends and one turn on the outers.

 

[ToothMagician]

Long blue wire is the 3rd Brake Light wire, this is saved and used to allow cruise control to function.

Could you expand a little, I spliced into the other brake lights for the third? Should I use the blue wire for the 3rd? Or does it splice into the cruise control somewhere?

I did four turns out on the inner rods ends and one turn on the outers.

I ended up doing 4 all around. Interested to know what others have. I've seen a few variations in pictures around the forum.

 

[Traé]

Could you expand a little, I spliced into the other brake lights for the third? Should I use the blue wire for the 3rd? Or does it splice into the cruise control somewhere?



I ended up doing 4 all around. Interested to know what others have. I've seen a few variations in pictures around the forum.

The computer needs to see resistance on the 3rd brake light to allow the cruise to function. Here is a post discussing it. You dont need to install a brake light but do need a resistor.

 

[Joebob]

I ended up doing 4 all around. Interested to know what others have. I've seen a few variations in pictures around the forum.
[/QUOTE]

The tie rods thread engagement and the helm joint thread engagement are connected. For every turn out of inner and outer control arm threads is less thread engagement on the tie rods that affect your steering stability. You need to make sure you have enough thread engagement to take the steering forces. Rule of thumb is to have at least the bolt diameter engagement if threaded into equal strength materials. As you cannot see the engagement and we almost always add toe in, we reduce the thread engagement even more. The best way to mitigate the risk of too low of thread engagement is to start with the near maximum amount available. Start with all the helm joints threaded in all the way and then only thread out to get alignment parameters. You can see with your outer joints you lost 1/4"-3/8" of tie rod engagement without any affect of camber alignment.

For me a good place to start is to have the blue circled joints threaded all the way in. The red circled joints can be 4 turns out. this will get you close to the caster on the inner joints and the camber on the outer joints. I would also use non-nylock nuts on the joints or replacement after all the adjustments are made to leave the anti-vibration properties intact as you will be adding and removing the nuts several times as you make changes.

I also confirm the other suggestions of rotating or flipping the shock and the lower bracket.

Adjust caster first (inner control arm joints), then camber (outer control arm joints), then finally toe (outer tie rod).

Good luck.

 

[ToothMagician]

I ended up doing 4 all around. Interested to know what others have. I've seen a few variations in pictures around the forum.

The tie rods thread engagement and the helm joint thread engagement are connected. For every turn out of inner and outer control arm threads is less thread engagement on the tie rods that affect your steering stability. You need to make sure you have enough thread engagement to take the steering forces. Rule of thumb is to have at least the bolt diameter engagement if threaded into equal strength materials. As you cannot see the engagement and we almost always add toe in, we reduce the thread engagement even more. The best way to mitigate the risk of too low of thread engagement is to start with the near maximum amount available. Start with all the helm joints threaded in all the way and then only thread out to get alignment parameters. You can see with your outer joints you lost 1/4"-3/8" of tie rod engagement without any affect of camber alignment.

For me a good place to start is to have the blue circled joints threaded all the way in. The red circled joints can be 4 turns out. this will get you close to the caster on the inner joints and the camber on the outer joints. I would also use non-nylock nuts on the joints or replacement after all the adjustments are made to leave the anti-vibration properties intact as you will be adding and removing the nuts several times as you make changes.

I also confirm the other suggestions of rotating or flipping the shock and the lower bracket.

Adjust caster first (inner control arm joints), then camber (outer control arm joints), then finally toe (outer tie rod).

Good luck.

View attachment 50487
[/QUOTE]
Hey, thanks for the detailed write up on that. Clarifies a ton. I know I should rotate the damper control around, but it was such a PITA to get in the first time...I have an allen key that's a flat head on the short side...thinking I'm gonna use that to adjust.

 

[ToothMagician]

New video. part 21:

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Great progress! May help someone with their build to visually see how these parts go together. Keep up the good work!

 

[ToothMagician]

New Video. Part 22: getting close to driving!

 

[Robinjo]

You’re almost to the finish line jefe. Stay the corse and you’ll be there in no time. Well, completed and ‘driving’, you’ll spend a bit of time chasing down the fine tuning of suspension and (hopefully not) miscellaneous issues. Then comes the endless possibilities of upgrades you want.

 

[ToothMagician]

So today's problem is that the clutch pedal is dead, the lines have no fluid. I'm pulling negative pressure to try and get it filled up. Anyone got experience with this? Is there another way cause this sucks. this is what I got rigged up. Lemme know. Thanks in advance.

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[Rttoys]

Make sure the pedal is completely retracted or fluid won’t be able to flow through. Plus, open the bleeder in the back to see if it is flowing.

 

[ToothMagician]

Bleeder in the back? You're talking about the rear most brake bleeder? Or is there one on the transmission? And retracted = depressed as in NOT to the floor? I worried I have an air leak and I'm just pulling air through the system

 

[Mahkoi]

The bleeder for the clutch is on the hydraulic clutch elbow on the top of the trans.

 

[Rttoys]

You are using a pressure bleeder? Should be sending fluid everywhere, so open the one at the trans as Mahkoi showed. Vacuum bleeder then it goes on that fitting to suck the fluid.

 

[ToothMagician]

Found and bled the zerk on the trans, pedal feels hard. Thanks for the help!

 

[ToothMagician]

Part 23 of the build:

The car is ready to drive! No leaks, and seems like everything works at idle. Unfortunately, we got a foot and a half of snow and there's forecast for half a foot more in the next few days. So, I reckon it'll be a while before I can actually take it out. Guess I'll just have to start adding the other stuff like the boost gauge, hood, and front splitter.

 

[comegetjoe]

Part 23 of the build:

The car is ready to drive! No leaks, and seems like everything works at idle. Unfortunately, we got a foot and a half of snow and there's forecast for half a foot more in the next few days. So, I reckon it'll be a while before I can actually take it out. Guess I'll just have to start adding the other stuff like the boost gauge, hood, and front splitter.

Check the brakes while using power brakes applied first. I had all of mine mighty tight and then had the car up on jackstands to test out the trans/axle etc and when I stopped the drivetrain, I had drips that were squeezed out, but had nothing under full pedal while bleeding.