V1 Spherical upper strut mount group buy

[duthehustle93]

Thanks for the update, looks great!

Just curious, I see a "machined" chamfer desiged in on the perimeter of the lower side of the plate and not the top. I guess that could have just been on purpose while you were printing prototypes.

Will the perimeter of the top surface also be chamfered or at least edge broken as well?

Thank you!

The top side perimeter will have an edge break, but not a chamfer. The chamfer on the top side of the thru bore is designed to be back chamfered, but adding a chamfer around the perimeter would require another operation. I was debating calling out an oversized edge break on the top, but realized that a standard edge break will blend really nicely with the frame mounting plate and dust cap.

 

[95Blitz]

Is there anyway I could get the STL(If it is 3D printed that is_ for the cap so I can print a different color?

 

[duthehustle93]

Yeah absolutely! I may make a couple changes to the dust cap (potential two piece, need to verify fit on my gasket, etc) so the dust cap isn't stable enough to post up yet but I can once it's finalized.

 

[SmsDetroit]

I adjust mine often. Between street driving and Autocross set up. I would prefer a 2 piece design. Now I know everyone has an opinion and there is no pleasing everyone. I would like to see less of a dome cover for aesthetic reasons. I’ll go with whatever design you settle on but that my 2 cents. I appreciate all your hard work on this. Thank you

 

[duthehustle93]

I adjust mine often. Between street driving and Autocross set up. I would prefer a 2 piece design. Now I know everyone has an opinion and there is no pleasing everyone. I would like to see less of a dome cover for aesthetic reasons. I’ll go with whatever design you settle on but that my 2 cents. I appreciate all your hard work on this. Thank you

Thanks for the feedback, I'm printing a prototype 2 piece design as I type this... I'll have some updates on that soon! The domed top is so it can be printed without supports. With a two piece, it'd allow me to print the top part top face down, so I could run a flat top w/ a chamfer. I spent quite a bit of time iterating the plate, but I don't think it'd be worthwhile iterating cosmetic variations of the dust cap because everyone has difference preferences aesthetically, so I'll probably stop once I've got a 2 piece design. I'll keep it in mind though if I've got some extra time to play with that. Yeah absolutely! Happy to help make a handful of Goblins safer.

 

[duthehustle93]

I think I can put these into production ahead of schedule: Thank you everyone whose paid early (I've already received 13 out of 18!). With that said, I'm ahead of schedule on my end, and the only thing I'm missing to send RFQ's to the machine shops I work with is the lot size. For those who haven't paid, it's okay, I said I'd keep the window open until the 21st (I genuinely didn't expect so many people to pay this early)... just please let me know what your status is. Whether it's waiting on funds, or if you're no longer interested, that's totally fine... I just need to know what lot size to communicate to the machine shop.

Timeline (updated May 11th):

• 3rd week of March: Start production: turn spacers, mill + anodize spherical plates
• April 24th: Receive first lot of finished/anodized parts from machine shop
• May 9-10th: Testing (track day): I would like to run a track weekend on these before sending it out to everyone*
• May 12th: Disassemble the kit tested on my car, and inspect for any damage
• May 12-17: (first lot): Print dust caps, assemble, package
• May 18th: ship first lot of parts (in order of payment received)
• May 21st: Receive second lot of finished/anodized parts from machine shop
• May 25-31: (second lot): Print dust caps, assemble, package
• June 1st: Ship all remaining kits

Status/updates:
-Bearings and Mcmaster hardware is in! The bearings are really nice; they’ve got a nice tight fit, just what you need for cyclic axial loading.
-the 2 piece dust cap design is done. I’m all for change if it’s better, and tool-less access to the adjusting knob is better even if you rarely touch it. The only downside is the cap is no longer submersion-proof (just rain and dirt proof), but last I checked nobodies Goblin is amphibious. I’m assuming most of us would prefer the 2pc cap, so I’ll be switching to that as the default. However, if you prefer the 1pc cap (might be better for an AT goblin?) let me know and I can definitely ship you a 1pc cap. I’ll post both designs once everything ships, so if you have a printer at home you can print both and/or change to a different color and/or modify the design for aesthetic preferences.
-A printed test kit is on it's way to @Rttoys for testing. He was nice enough to offer his time to verify fitment on his newer chassis.

 

[Markm]

I like the two piece cap. Good idea

 

[KSLunsfo]

Yeah I kind of like the thread on cap. Hopefully it prints such that there's a little resistance/friction between the two halves so it won't free spin. I can see it working loose and flying off going down the highway . This is my kind of luck anyway

 

[duthehustle93]

Thanks all for the feedback!

Already ahead of you, my luck is the same haha. Typically for 3D printed threads you add quite a bit of clearance between male/female because the thread effectively grows from layer height, overhang, and the threads are always a bit "messy" (you can see this clearance if you zoom into the cross section picture). With that said, I'm tightening that a bit more than I typically would so the threads have some drag.

 

[gofast]

My car isn't done yet and I'm wondering if I should get in on this. I don't plan to the track my car. I saw the picture of the breakage. Is this happening on street driven cars or is it more of a track car issue? If this is a worthwhile upgrade to a street driven car, I should probably get in.

 

[95Blitz]

Yeah I kind of like the thread on cap. Hopefully it prints such that there's a little resistance/friction between the two halves so it won't free spin. I can see it working loose and flying off going down the highway . This is my kind of luck anyway

Mine too.

 

[duthehustle93]

My car isn't done yet and I'm wondering if I should get in on this. I don't plan to the track my car. I saw the picture of the breakage. Is this happening on street driven cars or is it more of a track car issue? If this is a worthwhile upgrade to a street driven car, I should probably get in.

From what I've seen it's about 50/50... but that stat is significantly skewed by who actually went out of their way to publish their failure. Logically, this makes sense since this failure is caused by suspension travel (more articulation = more induced pivot through the damper = more damper shaft bending). You still use the entirety of your damper stroke on the street .... droop from cutting driveways, bump from speed bumps, a droop->bump from potholes, etc.

I think the the other thing to consider is if/when this happens, is the street a safe environment for mechanical failure that could cause loss of control? In my opinion, it's probably the worst place for mechanical failure. You are still traveling very fast on public roads... which are consistently cluttered with walls, barriers, paralleled with ditches, hill sides, other cars, and by far the most important consideration is pedestrians. In addition, I'm assuming most of us aren't wearing the same level of safety gear on the street as we are on track, and are usually in auto pilot on the street/less ready to correct.

My use is primarily track, but my motive for this project was to make all Goblins safer.

 

[gofast]

From what I've seen it's about 50/50... but that stat is significantly skewed by who actually went out of their way to publish their failure. Logically, this makes sense since this failure is caused by suspension travel (more articulation = more induced pivot through the damper = more damper shaft bending). You still use the entirety of your damper stroke on the street .... droop from cutting driveways, bump from speed bumps, a droop->bump from potholes, etc.

I think the the other thing to consider is if/when this happens, is the street a safe environment for mechanical failure that could cause loss of control? In my opinion, it's probably the worst place for mechanical failure. You are still traveling very fast on public roads... which are consistently cluttered with walls, barriers, paralleled with ditches, hill sides, other cars, and by far the most important consideration is pedestrians. In addition, I'm assuming most of us aren't wearing the same level of safety gear on the street as we are on track, and are usually in auto pilot on the street/less ready to correct.

My use is primarily track, but my motive for this project was to make all Goblins safer regardless of their use and application.

 

[gofast]

I'd like to get in on this if I still can. I have the BC coil overs. Please let me know what other info you need and payment details. I might be challenged getting payment to you, I haven't used my paypal account in years. If a check in the mail works, we're in business.

 

[Rttoys]

My car isn't done yet and I'm wondering if I should get in on this. I don't plan to the track my car. I saw the picture of the breakage. Is this happening on street driven cars or is it more of a track car issue? If this is a worthwhile upgrade to a street driven car, I should probably get in.

It’s like the brake proportioning valve. You don’t “need“ it, till you do. Street or track.

 

[Robinjo]

It’s like the brake proportioning valve. You don’t “need“ it, till you do. Street or track.

I need my prop valve immediately upon starting to drive out of the neighborhood. The front end locked up way too easy without it. Like the front splitter or wing, that is almost mandatory if driving above 50 mph.

 

[Gtstorey]

I don’t have one on mine and not a problem that l can identify. Depends a lot on tire set up, maybe chassis length, sway bar or not, brake pad combo, etc. I’m sure on a race track it’s very much useful.

 

[duthehustle93]

I'd like to get in on this if I still can. I have the BC coil overs. Please let me know what other info you need and payment details. I might be challenged getting payment to you, I haven't used my paypal account in years. If a check in the mail works, we're in business.

Going old school! Yeah a check is fine; I'll shoot you a PM with my info.

 

[duthehustle93]

Kicking into production early! Thanks everyone for your early payment! I'll be kicking these into production on Monday. If you are seeing this and would like to add in, there's still time. The machine shop I typically work with is usually willing to add quantities as long as they're still running that active job (they're just against removing quantities obviously). My guess is I'll be able to add quantities up until the 3rd week of March, and potentially up to the very end of March. There's still no harm in asking if you are late to the party, it might just be a no if the machine shop is already done.

Torrington bearings: This is semi-related, and I don't want to turn this into a torrington bearing discussion thread, but if you are interested in torrington bearings while you are installing this kit, as a "while I'm in there" upgrade, I found a really inexpensive source. I came across these 2 1/2" ID torrington bearings for less than half of the price of what I'm used to paying for them through motorsports parts distributors Update: it looks like we bought out the rest of the inventory. There's a couple postings from other vendors with low quantities, but the brand/PN I ordered is Uxcell NTA4052 2 1/2" ID bearings. I ordered them for fun, assuming they'd go straight in the trash at this price, but they seem identical to what I'm used to seeing so I'm assuming they're just white labelled. I have no affiliation and I still haven't installed or tested them, but the nice thing about torrington bearings is they're incredibly low risk if they seize... the worst that can happen is you are back to where you started before you installed them.
-What are they? They're a type of thrust bearing that you can place at the end of your spring. Springs exhibit a slightly twisting motion as they're compressed axially, and these allow the spring to twist without binding. The result should be a more linear and consistent spring.
-What are the downsides? More maintenance... most people don't, but you should keep these bearings clean and lubricated. I recommend spraying some IPA on them, blowing them out with shop air, and then spraying them with dry film lube. I also recommend coilover covers, even if you aren't running these. I only need to clean/lubricate torrington bearings every 2-3 years with coilover covers.
-Do I need them? No, not really, but for $5/corner, I'm going to run them. They have no relation to the performance of this spherical kit group buy, but I figured I'd post in here for the 18 people who might want to consider dropping in torrington bearings while they have their rear springs out.

 

[David]

Kicking into production early! Thanks everyone for your early payment! I'll be kicking these into production on Monday. If you are seeing this and would like to add in, there's still time. The machine shop I typically work with is usually willing to add quantities as long as they're still running that active job (they're just against removing quantities obviously). My guess is I'll be able to add quantities up until the 3rd week of March, and potentially up to the very end of March. There's still no harm in asking if you are late to the party, it might just be a no if the machine shop is already done.

Torrington bearings: This is semi-related, and I don't want to turn this into a torrington bearing discussion thread, but if you are interested in torrington bearings while you are installing this kit, as a "while I'm in there" upgrade, I found a really inexpensive source. I came across these 2 1/2" ID torrington bearings for less than half of the price of what I'm used to paying for them through motorsports parts distributors. I ordered them for fun, assuming they'd go straight in the trash at this price, but they seem identical to what I'm used to seeing so I'm assuming they're just white labelled. I have no affiliation and I still haven't installed or tested them, but the nice thing about torrington bearings is they're incredibly low risk if they seize... the worst that can happen is you are back to where you started before you installed them.
-What are they? They're a type of thrust bearing that you can place at the end of your spring. Springs exhibit a slightly twisting motion as they're compressed axially, and these allow the spring to twist without binding. The result should be a more linear and consistent spring.
-What are the downsides? More maintenance... most people don't, but you should keep these bearings clean and lubricated. I recommend spraying some IPA on them, blowing them out with shop air, and then spraying them with dry film lube. I also recommend coilover covers, even if you aren't running these. I only need to clean/lubricate torrington bearings every 2-3 years with coilover covers.
-Do I need them? No, not really, but for $5/corner, I'm going to run them. They have no relation to the performance of this spherical kit group buy, but I figured I'd post in here for the 18 people who might want to consider dropping in torrington bearings while they have their rear springs out.

Dont know if it will give a performance upgrade but a placed an order for the kit. Before they run out.