V1 SS/SC cooling mods

[Mattc3366]

Hey guys , I’ve been doing some cooling mods recently after my first track day. Felt some power loss after a few laps and after replacing a piston not long ago I’m maybe being overly attentive on cooling this thing down.

first up was this frozen boost heat exchanger that has also been used by other members as well. This alone dropped my IAT2 15 degrees.

Secondly has been this ice box reservoir. Made a bracket for it with 1x1 angle steel and some 1/8 flat stock. Maybe not the best solution from a visual standpoint but this adds 2.5 gallons of coolant capacity and allows me to add ice for track days to help cool it down. So far I’ve only drove a few hours with it but it’s made temps a lot more consistent and doesnt heat soak as bad. Will report temp differences when I collect more data.
Just ordered ZZP spacer and DEI reflective heat tape.
The larger rear heat exchanger is in series right now with the front. I’m going to try bypassing the front and log temps and see what happens

 

[Mattc3366]

I also attached some string line to the rear to see how much air flow I had going across the heat exchanger. At around 60mph the string actually sucked forward. Granted this is with an extended windshield on. Maybe a smaller one for track days would increase airflow. Throwing a couple 7” fans seems to be an easy fix for this if needed

 

[devianteng]

Very curious how things go without the front h/e in the loop. I’m expecting to plumb all mine up today, but looking to go stock setup with an added reservoir. Dual pass endplate, phenolic spacer…standard stuff. Stock m62 setup, for now.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Matt, you can never have too much cooling out here in the desert. Good to see you are trying some different things to help remedy this - allin anticipation of another hot summer!

Adding volume to the cooling system is one way, since it takes a while for the boost heat to warm more coolant. But this higher volume also needs a much larger capacity heat exchanger - the DF HE is definitely not up to the task. The very large frozen boost HE is up to the task, but it also needs lots of airflow too. Adding fans to the HE is a good idea and moving the air through it in the best direction is crucial - it may seem that the air should flow from front to back, but due the way air curls around the cockpit area (windshield, seats, passengers) air tend to move from back to front. This cooler air than the air 'floating' above the engine, so recommend setting up the fans to pull through the HE towards the engine. PM me if you want to discuss.

 

[Mattc3366]

That was actually my plan with the fans. This also keeps them out of sight as well

 

[devianteng]

Adding volume to the cooling system is one way, since it takes a while for the boost heat to warm more coolant. But this higher volume also needs a much larger capacity heat exchanger - the DF HE is definitely not up to the task. The very large frozen boost HE is up to the task, but it also needs lots of airflow too. Adding fans to the HE is a good idea and moving the air through it in the best direction is crucial - it may seem that the air should flow from front to back, but due the way air curls around the cockpit area (windshield, seats, passengers) air tend to move from back to front. This cooler air than the air 'floating' above the engine, so recommend setting up the fans to pull through the HE towards the engine. PM me if you want to discuss.

Ugh, I'm supposed to be plumbing my h/e loop this week, but you're giving me things to think about. I really don't care for the idea of running the h/e upfront, and I was thinking about adding a second above the engine (like Matt did). Maybe I don't deal with that upfront h/e, or the hoses in the tunnel and instead do just a rear larger h/e, like what Matt has. I have a 1L tank I plan to add, isn't much but it's better than the factory SS/SC fill neck. What I'm wondering is if eliminating the front h/e and just doing a rear mount, like what Matt has, along with a 1L tank will it provide better cooling than what the standard DF loop and h/e will do.

 

[Mattc3366]

This week I will try and get the front bypassed and compare data and see if there’s any loss/gain from doing so

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Ugh, I'm supposed to be plumbing my h/e loop this week, but you're giving me things to think about. I really don't care for the idea of running the h/e upfront, and I was thinking about adding a second above the engine (like Matt did). Maybe I don't deal with that upfront h/e, or the hoses in the tunnel and instead do just a rear larger h/e, like what Matt has. I have a 1L tank I plan to add, isn't much but it's better than the factory SS/SC fill neck. What I'm wondering is if eliminating the front h/e and just doing a rear mount, like what Matt has, along with a 1L tank will it provide better cooling than what the standard DF loop and h/e will do.

Since you're not a desert dweller like Matt and myself, installing a large HE in the rear with cooling fans should handle the cooling needs of your LSJ in almost any driving condition. Our concern here in the desert is the ambient temperatures are so high that the intake air is already hot and putting boost heat into it taxes any A2W system - then trying to cool with 105+ degree airflow is a real challenge to even achieve ambient temperatures going into the cylinders.

 

[devianteng]

@Mattc3366 Is that the FrozenBoost 26x7x3.5 that you got?

Air to Water Heat Exchanger

Full Air to Water Heat Exchanger Kits Here!

www.frozenboost.com

 

[Mattc3366]

@devianteng yea that’s it

 

[Mattc3366]

Got the supercharger and intake manifold off after school tonight. Getting ready for the parts to show up this week.

Trick for that hidden 15mm bolt under the intake. Removal of alternator not needed

 

[Mattc3366]

So , I just wrapped the intake manifold , one side of the ice box closest to the motor and the line going from the pump to the intake manifold. I’m debating on just bypassing the front H/E now while everything is apart. Do I just leave it and try it later on for the sake of collecting the info on what works best or just do it now?

 

[devianteng]

So , I just wrapped the intake manifold , one side of the ice box closest to the motor and the line going from the pump to the intake manifold. I’m debating on just bypassing the front H/E now while everything is apart. Do I just leave it and try it later on for the sake of collecting the info on what works best or just do it now?

I mean, I really want to know which works better. H/E plumbing and seats are all that’s left to do on my build basically, and I’m still debating ditching the front h/e. But, so what makes the most sense for you!

 

[Mattc3366]

I’ll wait to bypass it. It’s not like it’s much work to swap around later anyway. Intake spacer shows up Friday I believe. Hopefully this weekend I’ll have all the answers on setup / temps

 

[Tinkles]

I'd keep the stock DF H/E plumped into the system. Like said before, the more coolant in the system, the longer it takes to heat that coolant up. It is also another H/E in the system. Getting good airflow to the H/E will help a bunch too, which is why I had side pods made to mount mine in. Also a Harrop HTV1320-LSJ supercharger will also help to decrease IATs and add more power and make it easier to change the oil filter.

 

[Mattc3366]

Fans mounted up tonight and also used JB weld to epoxy a filter setup in front of the outlet of the ice box going to the pump so half melted ice cubes don’t fit through the hose and jamb up the pump. I also tested the fans out. Wired them in parallel and series to see the difference. Series would be a lot better street driven for sure. Not that I think the fans are even needed for day to day crusing. Both fans getting the full 12v is quite a bit louder but for a track day I’m sure the difference in airflow would be great to have and noise wouldn’t be much of a concern on track

 

[devianteng]

I'd keep the stock DF H/E plumped into the system. Like said before, the more coolant in the system, the longer it takes to heat that coolant up. It is also another H/E in the system. Getting good airflow to the H/E will help a bunch too, which is why I had side pods made to mount mine in. Also a Harrop HTV1320-LSJ supercharger will also help to decrease IATs and add more power and make it easier to change the oil filter.

How does a TVS decrease IATs? It was always my understanding that the TVS does the opposite and puts more stress on IATs and the need for good cooling, and really should run E85 to make good power from it.

 

[devianteng]

Fans mounted up tonight and also used JB weld to epoxy a filter setup in front of the outlet of the ice box going to the pump so half melted ice cubes don’t fit through the hose and jamb up the pump. I also tested the fans out. Wired them in parallel and series to see the difference. Series would be a lot better street driven for sure. Not that I think the fans are even needed for day to day crusing. Both fans getting the full 12v is quite a bit louder but for a track day I’m sure the difference in airflow would be great to have and noise wouldn’t be much of a concern on track View attachment 39664View attachment 39665

Do you have the fans set to pull air through the h/e, and blow down on the engine?

 

[Mattc3366]

@devianteng yea they pull air down to the motor. And regarding the TVS the only way I think it would maybe lower IAT is that it’s more efficient and not needing such a small pulley to hit a desired HP lvl

 

[Tinkles]

How does a TVS decrease IATs? It was always my understanding that the TVS does the opposite and puts more stress on IATs and the need for good cooling, and really should run E85 to make good power from it.

The rotors are a 4 lobe 180* twist vs 3 lobe 60* twist(i think) with the M62. Also it having a 1.3L displacement vs the 1L M62 means that it pushing more air more efficiently and at lower rotor speeds. I saw ~14psi with a 2.9" pulley on a M62 and am currently at ~17psi with a larger 3.15" pulley on my TVS. Looking back at my TVS vs M62 data, both superchargers reached around the same max IATs(~150*F) in a 2-3-4 gear pull but the TVS recovered quicker. Still a worthwhile upgrade for anyone with a supercharged Ecotec.

Also just putting this out there... Nitrous will help cool the charged air. Just saying...