V1 Subframe Fitment

[Adam in CLE]

I wasn't sure where to post this so sorry if there is another thread already started on this. I am using the rigid engine mounts from DF and have the subframe in but I am off on the front engine mount (needs to come back) and 1 of the 3 bolts on the rear mount doesn't fit it needs to come forward toward front of the car. The 2 carriage bolts are in and 1 of the 2 bolts that goes through the rear control arms are in. The other doesn't line up. Does any one have any tricks they used to get everything square? Am thinking about using a ratchet strap but didn't want to reinvent the wheel if others have figured out a good safe way to do this.

Thanks - Adam

 

[Rttoys]

Yep. Keep everything loose, including engine and trans mounts. You need wiggle room to get everything aligned……and maybe some force.

 

[Ross]

I loosened all the engine mounting bolts, then lifted the engine, until the bolt holes line up on the DF engine solid mounts.

 

[Gtstorey]

I used a ratchet strap to pull mine into place. Things warp when welded and then you have a lot of handling of the drama after assembly that can move things some.

I made my own rigid mounts so I didn’t have to fight that. Made to match where the motor/trans sat in the frame

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

I used a parked truck as an anchor and ratchet straps to persuade some of the frame bits to line up

 

[Jareth]

I don’t recall it being too difficult, I rolled the engine in between the back end of the frame and then used an engine hoist to lift it up to meet the mounting locations and loosely connected all the bolts. I can only hope it will be as easy with Goblin 2.0?

.

 

[Adam in CLE]

Thanks all. I took the front engine mount off the engine and bolted it to the subframe loosely. Got the front 2 subframe bolts in, let the engine torqued and in place. Then got the back out most bolts in as well as 3 in the back. Did use the ratchet strap to persuade 1 side on the back to line up and boom, all torqued down and in place.

As a follow up on the rear suspension, what is the torque spec for the top coilover bracket? The 3 bolts in the pic?

 

[Adam in CLE]

Also couldn't find any torque settings for the shock nut. Anyone know?

 

[Ross]

I would find a torque table based on the bolt threads, and bolt grade.

 

[Adam in CLE]

Thanks Ross. Didn't even know that was a thing. I was hoping others out there including Lonny would chime in based on their design and vendors spec.

 

[Adam in CLE]

Spoke with Adam at DF. The 3 grade 8 bolts on the rear shock purch are torqued to 33 ft lbs. They are the ones that are to the aluminum plate supplied in your kit as pictured above.

 

[k.rollin]

Spoke with Adam at DF. The 3 grade 8 bolts on the rear shock purch are torqued to 33 ft lbs. They are the ones that are to the aluminum plate supplied in your kit as pictured above.

That is consistent with the hardware of that diameter used in the assembly of the front uprights, which were my reference for torquing the bolts in the rear.

 

[Adam in CLE]

Gotcha. Didn't get the reference. Appreciate the input.

 

[k.rollin]

Yeah, basically if I don't know/can't find the torque spec for something on this car, just look for the same diameter fastener going into the same material (e.g., nylock nut, tapped aluminum hole, etc.) and use the same torque setting.