ASkiles' 918GBLN Street Build - 06 SS/SC

askiles

Goblin Guru
Looks great Andy! Curious how you approached keeping the stock wheels. Seems like a lot of people change those for one reason or another. Anything need to be clearanced or spaced out?
I am most definitely not keeping the stock wheels. They are just good rolling around wheels for now until I have the other wheels and tires. These are super beat up.

I am actually going with American Racing Torq Thrust wheels in black with a polished lip. Still not positive in 16” or 17”, probably 16” though. The offset on the 16” wheels is a little better.
 

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TravMac

Well-Known Member
I am most definitely not keeping the stock wheels. They are just good rolling around wheels for now until I have the other wheels and tires. These are super beat up.

I am actually going with American Racing Torq Thrust wheels in black with a polished lip. Still not positive in 16” or 17”, probably 16” though. The offset on the 16” wheels is a little better.
Fair enough. Those do look pretty awesome! Even so though, does anything rub or touch just having them bolted up as rollers? I thought I'd read that they would be hitting suspension if bolted up without spacers or other changes... but can't find that thread again for the life of me... ha!
 

askiles

Goblin Guru
Fair enough. Those do look pretty awesome! Even so though, does anything rub or touch just having them bolted up as rollers? I thought I'd read that they would be hitting suspension if bolted up without spacers or other changes... but can't find that thread again for the life of me... ha!
For the most part, they are the stock wheels going on the mostly stock suspension, so they fit perfectly. No modifications needed at all. The rear coilovers are even smaller than the stock struts, so there is more room to run a wider wheel and tire than stock. With no fenders and a much simpler suspension, tons of room with the stock 18” wheels.
 

askiles

Goblin Guru
I am having an issue getting the shifter adjusted correctly to get the transmission into reverse. The shifter seems to be centered in neutral, and it will go into all other gears with no issues. What’s the secret here?? Help! Fluids are in, brakes and clutch are bled, I am ready to drive this beast! Thanks.
 

askiles

Goblin Guru
So I am also having an issue with the idle surging. I am not sure it is air in the fuel line any more, as it continues to do it. If it is air, what could the issue be?? I did pull codes...IAC error of some sort.

 

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
So I am also having an issue with the idle surging. I am not sure it is air in the fuel line any more, as it continues to do it. If it is air, what could the issue be?? I did pull codes...IAC error of some sort.

I mentioned this on facebook but essentially there are two ports on the throttle, one that goes to your brake booster, then one that goes to the valve cover. Ensure those ports are connected or covered. when its doing it start listening around the engine its prob sucking air somewhere causing it to do this...You may also have your MAF in backwards
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
I am having an issue getting the shifter adjusted correctly to get the transmission into reverse. The shifter seems to be centered in neutral, and it will go into all other gears with no issues. What’s the secret here?? Help! Fluids are in, brakes and clutch are bled, I am ready to drive this beast! Thanks.
Stock shifter has a collar that you have to pull up on to go into reverse. Sorry if I'm pointing out the obvious, but that's the only thing I can think of.
 

askiles

Goblin Guru
I mentioned this on facebook but essentially there are two ports on the throttle, one that goes to your brake booster, then one that goes to the valve cover. Ensure those ports are connected or covered. when its doing it start listening around the engine its prob sucking air somewhere causing it to do this...You may also have your MAF in backwards
I pulled the line on the one going to my brake booster and capped it thinking that may have been the leak. Engine ran the same. The other used to go to the evap solenoid, so it is called off. You have this capped off as well, correct?
 

askiles

Goblin Guru
Stock shifter has a collar that you have to pull up on to go into reverse. Sorry if I'm pointing out the obvious, but that's the only thing I can think of.
You are correct...it’s still not going into gear. I am over in that area with the shifter, just no gear. Yet!!
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
It's more than likely an adjustment issue. With your shifter in neutral, unhook the ball link that controls left/right movement. Move the shifter over to the left a little bit then adjust the ball link so that snaps back on without moving the shifter position. You probably only need to move it a 1/16 of an inch or so. If you go too far over to the left, you won't be able to get it into first gear.
 

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
I pulled the line on the one going to my brake booster and capped it thinking that may have been the leak. Engine ran the same. The other used to go to the evap solenoid, so it is called off. You have this capped off as well, correct?
8839

Again, if your MAF is backwards (or the intake itself is just sitting backwards) then its going to do the same thing,

Mine did the same thing before I fixed these items...
 

askiles

Goblin Guru
It's more than likely an adjustment issue. With your shifter in neutral, unhook the ball link that controls left/right movement. Move the shifter over to the left a little bit then adjust the ball link so that snaps back on without moving the shifter position. You probably only need to move it a 1/16 of an inch or so. If you go too far over to the left, you won't be able to get it into first gear.
I got it!!! I just adjusted the shifter cable back at the transmission ever so slightly, and now I have all gears! One issue down...check! Lol
 

askiles

Goblin Guru
View attachment 8839
Again, if your MAF is backwards (or the intake itself is just sitting backwards) then its going to do the same thing,

Mine did the same thing before I fixed these items...

I just checked those 2 vacuum ports, and the one that used to go to the evap is definitely capped off, and the one going to the brake booster should be good. I made sure the line was on there snug. Last night I even took it off and capped it, and it made no difference. I did also pull my intake apart, and the arrow is pointing towards the engine on the MAF.
 

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Torchandregdoc

Goblin Guru
I just checked those 2 vacuum ports, and the one that used to go to the evap is definitely capped off, and the one going to the brake booster should be good. I made sure the line was on there snug. Last night I even took it off and capped it, and it made no difference. I did also pull my intake apart, and the arrow is pointing towards the engine on the MAF.
Not sure if you said you had done this or not , but you need to test by isolating the brake booster. You may want to cap that line also to know positively that it's not the booster. . The booster could have a leak internally.
 

askiles

Goblin Guru
Not sure if you said you had done this or not , but you need to test by isolating the brake booster. You may want to cap that line also to know positively that it's not the booster. . The booster could have a leak internally.
Yeah I capped the booster vacuum line off as well to test it. I’ll try it again.
 

George

Goblin Guru
I had the same problem with mine. With the change to intake ,exhaust, and crankcase vent system the scaling of the air mas meter had to be changed (with HP Tuners software) it is at hit or miss adjustment. Currently on surges on cold start up for a very short time.

Brad
 
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