Fenix's Goblin #461 - 2010 Base Auto

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Can confirm that the four fuses after the run/crk relay becomes 12v when the key is switched on. The fuse labeled INJ is also getting 12v. This is good news I suppose?
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
The first step I would take in troubleshooting this would be to trace every wire on the wiring diagram and check continuity from one end to the other. It will take a few hours but that will confirm you have a good base. I would start at the key and work from there. Might not find the problem but got to start somewhere.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Can confirm that the four fuses after the run/crk relay becomes 12v when the key is switched on. The fuse labeled INJ is also getting 12v. This is good news I suppose?
'''
Yes, good news. I am having difficulties on where to start on this issue too. Makes me want to go back to the OBDii codes.

Codes are..
P0102 MAF sensor circuit low frequency
P0113 IAT sensor circuit high voltage
P0443 EVAP purge solenoid valve control circuit
P0449 EVAP Vent solenoid valve control circuit

P0452 fuel tank pressure sensor circuit low voltage

P0443, P0449 The evap codes are because we eliminated the evap system. The other 3 codes cause me concern.

P0102 MAF sensor... could be the The 10amp EXH fuse. MAF is facing the correct direction? Anks329 flipped it (the MAF) around and cleared this code and the P0113 code.

P0113 IAT sensor... The MAF also contains the intake air temp sensor. Maybe the P0102 and this are related.
The MAF sensor is the same electrical connector as the fuel injectors... It is easy to mix up these swappable electrical connectors.

P0452 Well, this code didn't stop my engine from running.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
Do all those share the same ground on the engine block above the starter and below the intake manifold?

Some cobalt owners have grounded the case of the ECU and the TCU to the frame as a patch for the corroded engine block ground.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Do all those share the same ground on the engine block above the starter and below the intake manifold?

Some cobalt owners have grounded the case of the ECU and the TCU to the frame as a patch for the corroded engine block ground.
All what share the same ground? The IAT sensor is grounded through the ECM.
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
I grounded the TCU and ECU and nothing changed and the EXH fuse is getting 12v


 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I grounded the TCU and ECU and nothing changed and the EXH fuse is getting 12v


Guess we will have to keep looking. The MAF reversal doesn't apply to your engine, and the electrical plug isn't it either.
You did find an electrical plug that wasn't plugged in! Clear the OBDii codes, and try starting it again? I'm not sure what that plug does, but it had to do something. Pull the OBDii codes again, and see if anything has changed.

Check for more missing plugs... that is what got my LSJ to start the first time... a missing plug on a sensor.
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Guess we will have to keep looking. The MAF reversal doesn't apply to your engine, and the electrical plug isn't it either.
You did find an electrical plug that wasn't plugged in! Clear the OBDii codes, and try starting it again? I'm not sure what that plug does, but it had to do something. Pull the OBDii codes again, and see if anything has changed.

Check for more missing plugs... that is what got my LSJ to start the first time... a missing plug on a sensor.

No change sadly, also confirmed that I am indeed in park and pressing down the brake doesnt change anything.

Also IAT reading 104 degrees, i have a new maf installed too, testing wiring tomorrow i guess
40785
 

Attachments

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member

I hooked up a button switch to jump the relay, this time with the relay still in and...

It starts! but then putters out after a moment as to be expected

Where do I go from here?

edit: sticking this connector view here for later

40786
 
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I can't see the video at work, and typically wont watch them anyway as I don't think they are good way to handle technical discussions.

If the jumping the relay got it to actually run, you need to use the wiring diagram to work your way up the chain to figure out where the power or signal is lost, depending on how you jumped the relay.
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
I just noticed that all the dials on the gauge drop and twitch downwards when the engine starts

I will get to work on some diagrams
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
What do these plugs go to? The ingnition switch? I would make sure all plugs are installed as a lot of systems are related. (i.e cruise control tied to 3rd brake light circuit)

40792


Looks like you are very close.
 

TravMac

Well-Known Member
What do these plugs go to? The ingnition switch? I would make sure all plugs are installed as a lot of systems are related. (i.e cruise control tied to 3rd brake light circuit)

View attachment 40792

Looks like you are very close.
I'm pretty sure they are turn signal wires (just went to my car and realized it was all taped up for "water proofing", so 90% confident).

Have you tried to swap relays? It seems like key wants to try if your gauge is also dropping as if there's a voltage change. There are more unique issues I've come across in cars, but got to start simple first. With lots of the electrical testing, may be a good idea for a trickle charger too if you don't already have one on there.

The running issue when you do jump it might be MAF too. It starts, doesn't see airflow, can't figure out what to do, and dies. I'm just thinking out loud. Sounds like you may not have the part to test that yet anyways, so getting the key up should be the main focus still.

This one is a real interesting puzzle!
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
I think the start stubble is the air in the fuel line on your first starts. Should do that for about a dozen times. You can help purge the air out by venting the fuel rail pressure through the valve o the rail by covering with a towel.
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
Is it too late to end the harness to df? Heh..

I ran it a few dozen times and nothing changed. It got really hot outside so I didn't get any wire testing done :confused:
 

Fenix Nexen

Well-Known Member
40817

Yellow wire from bcm to run/crnk.. with one probe on x1 15 and the other on x5 b4... tested for continuity and it beeps... It also beeps when moving the probe from x1 15 to the nearest ground post??? Is that to be expected? Or maybe I tested it incorrectly
 
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