Tony's City Goblin - 2010 SS/TC

Tony

Well-Known Member
I guess it's not too much effort to get it back out and measure it. The damage didn't seem to extend that far back when I was tearing down - the lower radiator mount tabs weren't bent.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Got out and checked the level yesterday - as far as I can tell the engine and frame are at the same angle. I did notice, however, that the strut brace bar is slightly bowed - lower in the middle, curved up at the outsides... is that normal?
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
I'm not at home at the moment to verify, but I'm pretty sure that tube should be straight.

Did you lay a straight edge on that tube to verify what your seeing? With all the tubes around there, sometimes it can cause an optical illusion.

Not saying your not seeing it bowed, just hoping that it's not.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
I'm not at home at the moment to verify, but I'm pretty sure that tube should be straight.

Did you lay a straight edge on that tube to verify what your seeing? With all the tubes around there, sometimes it can cause an optical illusion.

Not saying your not seeing it bowed, just hoping that it's not.
I had a digital angle finder, which I put at each end and at the middle, and the ends were about 1.5 degrees off from the center.
 

RichRich

Well-Known Member
I went and looked at mine, it looks perfectly straight. I wouldn't think that it would throw off your subframe engine alignment though, even if it was just slightly curved

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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
On page 7 you mentioned having issues with the engine mounts and spacers. Are you sure everything is correct with that?
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
I went and looked at mine, it looks perfectly straight. I wouldn't think that it would throw off your subframe engine alignment though, even if it was just slightly curved

View attachment 2718
I had the same thought, I don't think it'll make too much of a difference. Unrelated, is that the stock turbo for your engine? The compressor outlet is different than mine. Also, it looks like you have a lot more clearance between the engine and the strut bar than I do.

I would say you need to use a straight edge. If the angle gauge was turned slightly it will read an angle.
I did that yesterday. I didn't get a picture, but it was about 1/8" difference between ends and center. Again, though, I don't think it matters too much.

On page 7 you mentioned having issues with the engine mounts and spacers. Are you sure everything is correct with that?
I'm still not 100% sure. Like I mentioned above, it seems like the valve cover and frame are at the same angle, so if that is how it's supposed to be, then I guess it's right.

I did get the subframe out yesterday and measured it, and it's definitely square. So unless the trans mount brackets are bent, I don't think that's the issue.

 
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RichRich

Well-Known Member
It is the stock turbo, Borg Warner K04 I think is what it is. I have the adapter removed from the compressor side right now so that may be why it looks a little different. The angle makes it look like there is more room than there really is.
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
It is the stock turbo, Borg Warner K04 I think is what it is. I have the adapter removed from the compressor side right now so that may be why it looks a little different. The angle makes it look like there is more room than there really is.
Yeah, I see that now, looking back at my pics. I just didn't remember there being a flange on the compressor outlet, had it in my head that it was one piece. :rolleyes:
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Good news, I reinstalled the subframe last night and got everything to bolt up. At least with the factory rear trans mount - solid one is still way off. I installed everything in a different order that made it possible to use a little persuasion to line up the last couple bolts. Instead of installing the subframe completely first, I just put in one rear bolt, then installed the front trans mount, the other rear bolt, the rear trans mount, and finished with the two front carriage bolts. By the time I got to the last bolt, it was about 1/2" off, but the angle was fine, so I was able to ratchet strap into alignment. I'm glad that's done, just in time for the next (and hopefully last) shipment from DF today... according to UPS...
 

RichRich

Well-Known Member
I was talking to the guys at DF the other day, did you know that the solid mounts for the T/C SS were off and have to be re-fabbed? Mine don't fit either, not without a bit of persuasion ....okay, maybe alot
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
I was talking to the guys at DF the other day, did you know that the solid mounts for the T/C SS were off and have to be re-fabbed? Mine don't fit either, not without a bit of persuasion ....okay, maybe alot
I hadn't talked to them about it, but they definitely seemed off. Like I said, I got the front one to work, though it could certainly have been easier, but the rear was nowhere close.
 

RichRich

Well-Known Member
You may wanna get ahold of them and make sure the correct ones are being sent. I kept my factory ones in case I don't get the new ones in time
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
I've got a package arriving today from them, I'll wait and see what's in it first :cool:
 

Tony

Well-Known Member
Been a while since I updated, it's been a whirlwind couple months. I did replace the trans mounts with the new ones and they fit fine. Got the rear axles, brakes, and suspension mostly buttoned up. I don't have a mount for the parking brake cable made up yet and I need to put on the tie rods, but I got interrupted by my Volvo DD blowing out an exhaust valve. 2 weeks later, it's fixed, but I've also retrieved a bunch more stuff from my old house finally, so I need to spend time organizing all that too. Unfortunately, my motivation is stifled by the continued wait for the rest of my kit parts. I've been waiting on exhaust, intercooler bracket, and a few other intake pieces for quite a while. I think once I get all the wiring finished up, it'll be a big hurdle and I'll be a lot more encouraged though.
 
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