Tony's City Goblin - 2010 SS/TC

Discussion in 'Build Logs' started by Tony, Feb 2, 2017.

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  1. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    Long overdue update - finally getting back to work in the new location. The last thing I accomplished in the old garage was assembling/masking the struts and knuckle/hubs, so I put the two together and sprayed some black. Blurry picture because I couldn't be bothered to stop them swinging after bringing the ladder in from outside haha.
    [​IMG]

    Also got the front uprights/hubs assembled. I redrilled the upright to match the new steering arm design per Adam's instructions (thanks Adam) and cut the ABS plug off with a sawzall. I was worried about what I'd find, but it actually turned out better than expected. By cutting just flush with the rest of the plastic, I didn't break through to the inside of the reluctor/sensor mechanism - it just leaves solid plastic with 2 leads embedded, so no worries. If anyone is curious, I'll try to get better pics of that before I paint.
    [​IMG]

    I didn't spray the front uprights because I didn't bring my painting supplies (tape, safety wire, mineral spirits, etc) and my brother somehow didn't have any masking tape. I'm making another trip back up to the house today to move some more things, so not too big a worry.
     
  2. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    FINALLY almost done with paint. All I have left is the axles, wastegate (maybe), and a couple small parts like the brake reservoir relo adapter. I failed pretty hard in not priming the machined aluminum front assemblies, so the paint didn't turn out perfect, but 3 coats managed to get it pretty decent. If it doesn't hold up, I'll strip them back down and PC those pieces. A friend and I struggled mightily and got the springs back onto the struts without a spring compressor (new garage is not really close to any AZ, OReilly, etc) only to realize we forgot the mounting plate. Guess I'll have to go get a spring compressor after all. Oh well. Besides that, just need to put the studs back in and assemble the brakes, and all four will be ready to go on (as soon as the engine/subframe is in, in the rears' case).
    [​IMG]

    Decided to paint the calipers silver. Gold would have looked silly since the wheels are gold, black would have blended in too much, and I didn't really feel like spending the money to get them PC'd purple (plus that would have looked silly too probably). I figured silver would be a good contrast, plus it will match the front springs - and the rears, eventually... probably. Picture is of the rears, but fronts are the same. Also painted the rear caliper brackets black.
    [​IMG]

    On a separate note, I sent my turbo center housing off to Midwest Turbo to be balanced/reassembled. I got a phone call yesterday, and apparently it's pretty boned. Damage to the turbine wheel, bent turbine shaft, end clearances out of spec, etc. So that combined with the cracked housing/manifold.... I'm going to wait and see what they quote me for an all new center housing, but it may be worth it at this point to just upgrade. We shall see.
     
  3. Drtye

    Drtye Member

    That much damage, I would definitely compare the cost of a new unit vs an upgrade, it cant be that much more to throw an old journal bearing turbo on there and let it rip.
     
    Waterdriver likes this.
  4. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    Yeah, I paid 55 for the balance, which they'd credit toward a new CHRA, so another 300 or so. Or I wait for the Z54 to come back in stock for 1100 or so... Or get a t3 manifold and a somewhat cheap turbo + WG + BOV and piece that together.
     
  5. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    Not a huge amount of progress, but a big milestone... (front) wheels are on the ground! Steering arms aren't connected because it had about 20 degrees of toe in, and I haven't been able to get the tie rods loose to adjust them. As I expected, the brake caliper color doesn't really show through much, but I think it looks good. I wanted to get the front wheels on now because that'll allow me to put the engine in myself if I need to - I can lift the back and roll the whole frame back over the engine.
    [​IMG]

    I ended up going ahead and just getting a new CHRA for the K04 turbo. A little frustrating because I can't get it coated, and since the only reason it was taken apart and needing balanced in the first place was because I got it coated... I kinda went in a circle. Oh well, live and learn.
     
  6. Johvans

    Johvans Well-Known Member

    Looks good!! I'm in pretty much the same spot. Can you take some more pictures of your turbo setup once its installed?

    Thanks,
    John
     
  7. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    Yes I can! :D
    Ended up buying a new center housing for the turbo - figured 260hp ought to be plenty for now, especially since I'm saving for a new house. So once that came in, I reassembled the turbo and got it hung. The camera flash is pretty harsh on the cleanliness of the engine... it doesn't look that bad, I promise.
    [​IMG]

    As is inevitable, got a couple scuffs and scrapes on the painted oil/coolant lines. However, I wasn't expecting to see scuffs so easily on the ceramic coated parts. That is a bit frustrating.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

    Looking good Tony. Is the turbo plumbing still in the design phase or have you already received that?
     
  9. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    I haven't received it yet. Last I heard from Adam, all of the plumbing and pump/heat exchanger/fan/etc was ready to go, they were just finalizing the design of the intercooler mounting bracket. I asked him to send me an invoice when that is ready to go (along with solid engine mounts, parking brake brackets, and the modified trans mount). Still trying to decide on color for the turbo plumbing :D
     
  10. Briann1177

    Briann1177 Well-Known Member

    I'd keep with the theme and go with the purple.

    And when you get it, please post pics. I'm curious to see how the MAF, IAT sensor, and vacuum line are integrated.
     
  11. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    In an attempt to not clutter Nuker's thread, I'll move discussion here.
    I did some more research, and got a little bit of data from a couple sources.
    https://goo.gl/PFcFyB
    https://goo.gl/oWtg2t (in Celsius I assume)
    From this, I'm estimating a max temp that the surrounding components will see of around 200F. Glass transition temps (where deformation would likely begin) of common printing materials are 149F for PLA and 221F for ABS. I'll probably try with ABS and see if it works. If not, I'll likely get some PC-ABS, which has a GTT of 257F, and a Vicat softening temp of 234F (~205-210F for ABS). The measured bowl temp in the first link's data didn't exceed ~230F, and my parts won't be in contact, so I'm hoping I can make this work.
    upload_2017-11-17_11-25-29.png upload_2017-11-17_11-25-29.png
     
  12. JSATX

    JSATX Well-Known Member

    I don’t buy the argument PLA is easier to use. I’ve used ABS since day one and don’t see any reason to switch.
     
  13. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    Yeah, there's a sample of PLA included with the printer I'm looking at, but I don't intend to buy any above that. ABS is the same price, tougher, and better with heat... just stinky haha
     
  14. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    The main issue is with ABS tends to lift off of the build plate if you don't have a heated enclosure and a warm enough build plate. Otherwise it's a very good material.
     
  15. ctuinstra

    ctuinstra Well-Known Member

    Which one are you looking at out of curiosity?
     
  16. TheNuker

    TheNuker Well-Known Member

    I’m going to run custom Cree chips in mine and so milling aluminum pieces will help dissipate heat. I’m looking at 9k Lumen chips 5200k I have laying around lol.... I want to see the deer.

    Nuker
     
  17. theeulogy

    theeulogy Member

    Do you have the CAD file for the headlight assembly? I would like to have one printed and start specing a projector for it.
     
  18. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    Maker Select V2, plus some mods. Relay board for the heated plate, all-metal hotend, enclosure, etc. For the price ($255 with coupon), it's hard to beat, plus there is a huge community support base.

    It's designed around a standard Mini H1 projector. I'm not quite finished with refining the design, but this is something I'd like to develop further and possibly sell in the future. I'm happy to share the model with you, but please keep that in mind if people ask you where you got them ;)
     
  19. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

    That sounds wicked, I can't wait to see what you come up with.
     
  20. George

    George Member

    Question, what about print it in PLA and use it in a lost wax aluminum casting for the part that must handle heat.

    Brad
     

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