AleX1/9
Well-Known Member
I had my frame powder coated at Kitsap Powdercoating in Poulsbo (closer to Kingston actually). They did the illusion for $1100. Super happy with the results!
Depending on what part of Washington you're in, it might be worth the trip, the shop is really close to the Kingston ferry terminal that runs to Edmonds
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
I'm located in the North end Tacoma. Going to get a few other quotes from some local area shops.
I talked with a friend of mine who used to work for PPG paint. He was recommending a 2 part epoxy paint. As durable if not more so, less expensive and easy to do touch up's if welding on brackets after the fact.
Considering going this route, similar to JSATX.
I talked with a friend of mine who used to work for PPG paint. He was recommending a 2 part epoxy paint. As durable if not more so, less expensive and easy to do touch up's if welding on brackets after the fact.
Considering going this route, similar to JSATX.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Two part paints are completely different from "normal" enamel type paints like rustoleum.
My biggest mistake of the entire process was using rustoleum. I used the paint that comes in the quart can and sprayed through a nice spray gun (only used aerosol cans to touch up small areas) and am totally disappointed in the paint, after only 400 miles it is completely covered in rock chips and has no durability.
A two step automotive paint or powder coat is the only way to go.
I didn't want to spend the money on powder coat and regret that. However if you wanted to go a cheaper route I would just take the frame to a cheap chain paint place like Maaco. While I'd never trust them with an actual car painting job the bare frame would be almost impossible to screw up and would probably cost about 1/2 a powder coat job.
Tony
Well-Known Member
I guess I'll (tentatively, as I haven't seen the results) count myself lucky for the price I got on powder. I don't plan to limit myself to well-paved roads and racetracks because, here in Indiana, that would mean not driving at all, so hopefully the coating holds up well.
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Hey Guys,
I was having trouble finding a place to get Nathan's frame powder coated. Just sandblasting the frame was going to be $600 (our small sandblaster wasn't going to cut it). A friend hooked me up with an option. The local wrought iron works (custom railings) doesn't advertise powder coating but they actually have the largest oven in my area. $800-$1000 for sandblasting and powder coating the entire frame, control arms, and a dozen misc. parts including the sheet metal. We are going with black the price would be a bit more for a color.
Just an idea...
I was having trouble finding a place to get Nathan's frame powder coated. Just sandblasting the frame was going to be $600 (our small sandblaster wasn't going to cut it). A friend hooked me up with an option. The local wrought iron works (custom railings) doesn't advertise powder coating but they actually have the largest oven in my area. $800-$1000 for sandblasting and powder coating the entire frame, control arms, and a dozen misc. parts including the sheet metal. We are going with black the price would be a bit more for a color.
Just an idea...
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
Thanks BAR-AIR for that idea. Sounds like a pretty good deal for all that getting powder coated.
I think there's a wrought iron shop a block away from where I work that I'll have to check out.
I do really like JSATX's red on black. The photos don't seem to show the chipping. Is it chipping on the side chassis bars behind the front tires, as when you turn?
Wondering if a clear coating like the invisible car bra's would help protect those areas.
I think there's a wrought iron shop a block away from where I work that I'll have to check out.
I do really like JSATX's red on black. The photos don't seem to show the chipping. Is it chipping on the side chassis bars behind the front tires, as when you turn?
Wondering if a clear coating like the invisible car bra's would help protect those areas.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
I'm sure the bras would help. Application would be a ***** though. And why cover it when you can just do it right the first time by not using cheap hardware store paint.
Tony
Well-Known Member
Might be getting a bit carried away with the engine cleanup... note the pile of grime already on the floor, and that's just from simple green and scrubbing with a soft brush.
I learned about a process called soda blasting (media blasting with baking soda), which is great for engines because if any soda sneaks into the crevices, it dissolves in either water or oil and doesn't cause problems. I'm gonna pick up a cheap siphon blaster ($25) and a 50lb bag of soda ($40) from Harbor Freight today. I think between that and the mineral spirit blast, I should be able to get it looking nearly new before I paint.
I learned about a process called soda blasting (media blasting with baking soda), which is great for engines because if any soda sneaks into the crevices, it dissolves in either water or oil and doesn't cause problems. I'm gonna pick up a cheap siphon blaster ($25) and a 50lb bag of soda ($40) from Harbor Freight today. I think between that and the mineral spirit blast, I should be able to get it looking nearly new before I paint.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Please give an update on the soda gun when ya get it. I've been strongly considering getting one but only just now have an air compressor that can run one.Might be getting a bit carried away with the engine cleanup... note the pile of grime already on the floor, and that's just from simple green and scrubbing with a soft brush.
I learned about a process called soda blasting (media blasting with baking soda), which is great for engines because if any soda sneaks into the crevices, it dissolves in either water or oil and doesn't cause problems. I'm gonna pick up a cheap siphon blaster ($25) and a 50lb bag of soda ($40) from Harbor Freight today. I think between that and the mineral spirit blast, I should be able to get it looking nearly new before I paint.
You will need a lot of air. And very dry air so be sure and put a water separator in line.
PG5
Well-Known Member
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Tony
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm just trying to find a decent cheap dryer that will work with higher pressure. Most of the cheap ones are 90psi max, and I'd rather not spend $60.
Oh don't worry, I've got that bookmarked
TheNuker
Goblin Guru
I have and used this one https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html
It worked super good for a bunch of part cleanup. Takes pretty much everything off at 100psi I was using the medium grit soda.
Nuker-
I have this compressor http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-30-Gal-175-psi-High-Performance-Quiet-Portable-Electric-Air-Compressor-C303H/206532808
You can get about 20 minutes of continuous spraying with the compressor running. It works very good on everything. I just used it to refinish a wood dresser also.
The water thing has not caused me any issues at all. The gun drips like crazy at the joints but the soda does not clog or have any issues.
It worked super good for a bunch of part cleanup. Takes pretty much everything off at 100psi I was using the medium grit soda.
Nuker-
I have this compressor http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-30-Gal-175-psi-High-Performance-Quiet-Portable-Electric-Air-Compressor-C303H/206532808
You can get about 20 minutes of continuous spraying with the compressor running. It works very good on everything. I just used it to refinish a wood dresser also.
The water thing has not caused me any issues at all. The gun drips like crazy at the joints but the soda does not clog or have any issues.
Tony
Well-Known Member
Tore down the hot side of the engine to prep for more cleaning, and was really pleased to see a broken exhaust stud (lower right). I'm praying that I can get it out without too much difficulty, but it'll be after paint.
Got everything soda blasted, then mineral spirits blasted, then air blasted to dry. Masked everything I don't want painted, so I'll be about ready for paint today. I may go ahead and give it one last rinse with simple green, then distilled water, since there's still a sort of "dustiness" to it after blasting that the mineral spirits didn't seem to help.
As far as the soda blaster, it seemed to work pretty well. I went with https://www.harborfreight.com/1-liter-abrasive-blast-gun-92857.html since it had the best reviews and was cheap. I wish I'd gone with Nuker's suggestion, as the complaints that I had were that it went through the media really fast (I had to refill every couple minutes) and the container made it harder to get into some tight places, neither of which would have been an issue with the 50lb unit. Regardless, it made a huge mess, but seemed to clean things well, and it was nice to not have to worry about damaging rubber/plastic parts (or deal with masking/removing them).
Got everything soda blasted, then mineral spirits blasted, then air blasted to dry. Masked everything I don't want painted, so I'll be about ready for paint today. I may go ahead and give it one last rinse with simple green, then distilled water, since there's still a sort of "dustiness" to it after blasting that the mineral spirits didn't seem to help.
As far as the soda blaster, it seemed to work pretty well. I went with https://www.harborfreight.com/1-liter-abrasive-blast-gun-92857.html since it had the best reviews and was cheap. I wish I'd gone with Nuker's suggestion, as the complaints that I had were that it went through the media really fast (I had to refill every couple minutes) and the container made it harder to get into some tight places, neither of which would have been an issue with the 50lb unit. Regardless, it made a huge mess, but seemed to clean things well, and it was nice to not have to worry about damaging rubber/plastic parts (or deal with masking/removing them).
Tony
Well-Known Member
I thought about it, but after some reading, the stock LNF clutch is almost identical to the GMPP, both of which are stronger than the stock LSJ. The donor had just over 100k IIRC, so I'll probably leave it for now for budget reasons. If it seems shot after driving, I may upgrade to an OTTP stage 2 or something.
Tony
Well-Known Member
A quick final rinse with simple green and distilled water, followed by a blow dry, and the primer went on. If it looks this good in primer, I can't wait to see the black...
This one got a little blurry, probably because I was so excited (or maybe because my hands were shaking from squeezing the rattle can).
A little clearer on this one... looks good.
Rustoleum "Metallic Burnished Brass" matched pretty good to the Konigs, so the valve cover got a coat.
Not a perfect match, but pretty close. The photo makes it look more different than it is, but the wheels are a little lighter/more yellow.
Need to touch up around the valve cover flange where I overmasked so there's primer showing, but I'm super pumped with the way it looks.
Does anyone have any tips for painting the alternator? I assume it's ok to spray since all the wire windings are coated, but can't hurt to ask. Also, stopped by the coat shop this morning on my way to work, apparently my frame just got taken to sandblast yesterday... frustrating, but NBD since I'll be leaving town today for the holiday weekend.
This one got a little blurry, probably because I was so excited (or maybe because my hands were shaking from squeezing the rattle can).
A little clearer on this one... looks good.
Rustoleum "Metallic Burnished Brass" matched pretty good to the Konigs, so the valve cover got a coat.
Not a perfect match, but pretty close. The photo makes it look more different than it is, but the wheels are a little lighter/more yellow.
Need to touch up around the valve cover flange where I overmasked so there's primer showing, but I'm super pumped with the way it looks.
Does anyone have any tips for painting the alternator? I assume it's ok to spray since all the wire windings are coated, but can't hurt to ask. Also, stopped by the coat shop this morning on my way to work, apparently my frame just got taken to sandblast yesterday... frustrating, but NBD since I'll be leaving town today for the holiday weekend.