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Fenix's Cobalt SS LSJ (Non goblin)

Fenix Nexen
DF video and there are adapter pieces in your kit.
There are other brake videos in this same location.
Im confused now. I should clarify that the engine and everything is staying in the cobalt? I'm not getting or working with a kit, I'm trying to get a stock cobalt ss road worthy again. Which is why I put this thread in other builds. I appreciate the help though!
 
G
The part about there should not be any fluid in the booster stands. If there is, the master cylinder is leaking into it. Clean everything real well and determine exactly where the leak is.
 
Fenix Nexen
master cylinder and its reservoir replaced. The old one had a good amount of sediment in its tank so I'd say it was about time to replace it anyway. The brake booster looked dry to me. I think what was leaking was the o-ring closest to the firewall for the reservoir, but I really have no idea. I bench bled the cylinder per instructions then installed it. I am now bench bleeding the system at -10 psi, the pressure is holding and bubbles are slowly moving out. I will just leave it like this probably overnight and then proceed with checking for more leaks followed by reassembly if there are none. If the leak happens again it will be going to a shop. I am not dropping the trans a 3rd time... at least not for a long while. I just need everything to last long enough to get back to work and pay off the cost of fixing this. Then I can go from there. Right now I don't have a car to drive.
 
Fenix Nexen
I have everything bolted on and now the car cranks and does not run. It got lucky once and happily idled for a while but now its angry at me with 7 new codes I have not seen before on this car:
P0443 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Valve Control Circuit
P0341 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Performance
P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit
P0230 Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit <- new relay ordered
P0033 Supercharger Bypass Valve Solenoid Control Circuit <- this isnt new

I am guessing the CMP and fuel pump relay is preventing the car from turning over? Any ideas?
 
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G
Check your wiring connections for those items and then trouble shoot per the service manual starting with the P0230. Typically, GM will crank with Camshaft Position errors although it can lead to extended crank times or requiring a second start attempt as the ECM will make assumptions about which stroke the cylinders are on. But I'm not 100% sure about that for these motors.

Assuming by "no start" you mean "crank but not run".
 
Robinjo
Sounds like two plugs are swapped.
On the LSJ there are a few connectors plugs or sensors can accidentally be swapped. Like MAF sensor and another sensor, Injector harness and another Harness, etc.
 
G
Is it possible that brake fluid got on the CMP wires and creeped up into the connector and ruined it? I'll have to check later
Might be possible but not likely. CMP sensor is pretty high up on the motor. And I doubt it has ruined the wiring connector. If you don't want to start with the diagnostic for the codes, then you need to start with the basic no run diagnostic of does it have fuel (to the cylinder) and does it have spark.
 
Fenix Nexen
Back with more information. While waiting for the replacement relay to arrive I grabbed a relay from the kitcar and now it cranks and starts. At first it was very unhappy but after a few cycles of turning over the engine it makes less fuss. After clearing codes a new batch of trouble codes arrived for my enjoyment:

P0443 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Valve Control Circuit
P0036 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor
P0102 Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency
P0017 Crankshaft Position (CKP) - Exhaust Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation
P0033 Supercharger Bypass Valve Solenoid Control Circuit
P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit
P0341 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Performance

I checked the plug for the camshaft sensor and the clip that holds it in is broken, the wires are damp with brake fluid however the plug internally looks dry and is rust free.

I have a new camshaft sensor and plug arriving soon and a replacement fuel relay. After posting this I will check the fuses. Could the timing have jumped a tooth?

Edit: The 10A fuse for emisn was blown, I replaced it and it quickly popped again. So I guess a short to ground somewhere?
 
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Fenix Nexen
Just sticking this here as a reference for myself. After visually inspecting for any pinched wiring and if I dont find anything I'll have to follow the emission fuse path on these diagrams. The fuse pops right when the key is turned but not crank.

941941765

942373484
 
Fenix Nexen
That definitely could be your problem.

It was. Now the brake pedal refuses to work with no resistance and the clutch pedal still has some play in it. I imagine air has gotten everywhere in the system. So after bench bleeding a few times I am getting no better results. I went to start bleeding the brakes and stopped right after taking a wheel off. I think I am done. Very likely going to call up a shop and have them deal with it.
 
Rttoys
D-oh! Where's your blower, Russell?
We're just doing the water pump/thermostat/pcv triplets this up coming weekend on our Q7.
It’s the wifey‘s daily. It has a turbo, but no blower. That’s a lot of extra money for something she will never use. Hell, she doesn’t use the turbo :rolleyes: I do though :cool:

we really wanted a red Porsche McMann with black wheel, but couldn’t justify the extra $25k for a glorified SQ5.
 
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