Stage 2 questions

[Robf]

I'm in the process of installing stage 2 components and I'm stumbling some.

Are all 4 stainless braided brake lines supposed to be the same size?
My rear lines are long enough but the front ones are no where close. Probably need to be a foot longer.

Next up is the axle. There is a 1/4 inch gap between the axle and the transmission on both sides. On the cobalt that wasn't the case.

Stock shocks are rubbing against my tires.
Rims are konig 8inch 45 offset with 245 45 17 tires. I'm guessing my offsets causing that issue and I need spacers?

Last thing which it may be my eyes playing tricks on me but it seems like the passenger front wheel is on the outside of the passenger rear where as the drivers front is on the inside of the driver rear.

 

[Dsteinhorst]

It looks like you got the wrong front brake lines. Contact DF and they should sort it out.

Did your axles make a heavy click when pushing them in? It looks like they need to be snapped in. It can be a pain, but you'll know when they're in.

Wheels definitely have too much offset. Spacers or different wheels are your options. BC coilovers may clear those wheels too.

Don't every trust your eyes. I did that constantly too. An alignment will sort it out.

 

[Robf]

It looks like you got the wrong front brake lines. Contact DF and they should sort it out.

Did your axles make a heavy click when pushing them in? It looks like they need to be snapped in. It can be a pain, but you'll know when they're in.

Wheels definitely have too much offset. Spacers or different wheels are your options. BC coilovers may clear those wheels too.

Don't every trust your eyes. I did that constantly too. An alignment will sort it out.

I figured I probably got the wrong front lines or I was missing a part I should have kept from the cobalt.

The axles initially made a "click" noise but when I tightened the axle nut it kind of pulled it out a little.

How big of spacers would I need?

 

[Sluggonaut]

I figured I probably got the wrong front lines or I was missing a part I should have kept from the cobalt.

The axles initially made a "click" noise but when I tightened the axle nut it kind of pulled it out a little.

How big of spacers would I need?

Mine clicked when I first installed them but the driver side came out on my 3rd test drive. I had to play with it a little bit and got a second click and haven't had an issue since.

 

[Dsteinhorst]

I have some 1" spacers for 4x100. Can send them to you for cost of shipping. I used them for a year without issue until I changed my brakes.

 

[Joebob]

You probably need spacers for the rear but it looks like you gain some clearance by adjusting for less negative camber in the rear.

I would also thread in the large front Helm joints as you have both top and bottom threaded out a lot. The videos of 4 turns each gives too much negative camber and every turn out on those joints is a turn out on the tie rods and it is already near minimum thread engagement. I have my bottoms all the way in and the top are like 3 turns out. I should have about -.5 degrees but each car will be a little different, especially after adding caster.

Joe

 

[Rttoys]

Yep. A 1” spacer in the rear will fix that and square up the car better. It won’t “look right” until you align it though. I would get the BC struts though.

need a solid snap for those axles. It takes some muscling. Use some lube to help the c clip slide and do it’s thing.

 

[Robinjo]

Yep. A 1” spacer in the rear will fix that and square up the car better.

I went with 1.5 inch spacers to make the rear wider than the fronts. It helped a lot with the rear trying to come around as easily

 

[Rttoys]

Yep. Plus it makes it look better or more correct.

 

[Robf]

I have some 1" spacers for 4x100. Can send them to you for cost of shipping. I used them for a year without issue until I changed my brakes.

Are they hubcentric with nuts or is it just a flash spacer.

 

[Robf]

Yep. A 1” spacer in the rear will fix that and square up the car better. It won’t “look right” until you align it though. I would get the BC struts though.

need a solid snap for those axles. It takes some muscling. Use some lube to help the c clip slide and do it’s thing.

This is after adding half an inch wort

Yep. A 1” spacer in the rear will fix that and square up the car better. It won’t “look right” until you align it though. I would get the BC struts though.

need a solid snap for those axles. It takes some muscling. Use some lube to help the c clip slide and do it’s thing.

I added a half inch of washers to the studs and it sits pretty good here. That would give me a 33 offset which It seems like most are around the 35 mark

 

[Robf]

You probably need spacers for the rear but it looks like you gain some clearance by adjusting for less negative camber in the rear.

I would also thread in the large front Helm joints as you have both top and bottom threaded out a lot. The videos of 4 turns each gives too much negative camber and every turn out on those joints is a turn out on the tie rods and it is already near minimum thread engagement. I have my bottoms all the way in and the top are like 3 turns out. I should have about -.5 degrees but each car will be a little different, especially after adding caster.

Joe

So you're saying white needs to be three full turns out and blacks all the way in? I did 4 out on all like the videos suggest.

 

[Joebob]

Black and white all the way in is a great place to start with white having to be threaded out to get the camber you want after setting caster.

 

[Robf]

Ok ill thread them all in and see how it looks.

 

[Robinjo]

Yep. Plus it makes it look better or more correct.

Oh, anything under 1.5" spacer and you *may* need to cut down your wheel studs. For an quick and easy alignment, try the video below. It's super easy to do..... now if you have access to a alignment rack, that is the best way. For Camber I just used my iPhones leveling function to get it decently close. If you want precise, then you need better equipment. I'm happy with close camber (for now).

 

[Robf]

Stage 2 update

I worked on the brakes some today and ran into some issues.

First off the rear caliper mount wasn't entirely rounded so I had to grind off some material. (Look at circled area in pic) I had to do that to both rear caliper brackets and now it fits fine.

I had to order some half inch spacers which should be here for install next weekend.

I'm missing the rear metal pad guides and I was sent two R front calipers and missing the front brake lines. I'll have to call df about that tomorrow.

I was really hoping to get wheels on the ground this weekend but it's starting to look like next weekend.

Also does anyone have pictures or share a Link in the forums of installing the manual shifter for the f23?

 

[Matt3458]

How long is the front brake line supposed to be? Mine's about 23 inches and there's no slack even with the wheel straight. Rear lines are shorter so I know they're not swapped.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Remove the tie wraps first. On the passenger's side, turn the wheel full right and tie wrap again to see what length you have to work with and keep the line away from the spring coils. Do the same on the driver's side, but turn the wheel full left. Turn the wheel in the opposite direction to ensure no interference with anything when the brake line flexes inward.

You may need to make a brake line mount that is forward of the a-arm bar to keep the brake line straighter, rather than following the contour of the a-arm? Have you check other builders logs to see if they had this same problem or if they did something different. I recall a few builders who used 3D printed brake line mounts that held the brake line more forward - giving more leeway on length? Or you can purchase longer brake lines?

 

[Matt3458]

With the wheel turned full right the brake line can't touch the A-arm. I seems like the line is ~6 inches too short. Other's builds and the new install video look like they have way more line to work with.

 

[Robf]

Yours are too short. Contact DF.