Towerdog's Indiana Street Goblin Build (#250) 07 SS/SC Donor

R

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
4" of air gaps is a ton of air in the system. It has to be pulling in through somewhere. How large are the areas of fluid between those large air gaps? My guess would be a hose clamp somewhere (master to reservoir or something).

My other suggestion would be to use an a pneumatic brake bleeder like this from HF:
www.harborfreight.com

Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder with Auto-Refill Kit

Amazing deals on this Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

I used it to pull all the brake fluid out of my lines during disassembly and it went pretty quick. Put a bottle on the master side, attach that to bleeder valve at the transmission, leave it cracked, and just keep a large bottle of brake fluid at the reservoir for it to pull through. I'd assume a large bottle like what you have would be enough to fill the entire system, plus the extra that you have in there currently so you should get all bubbles out then. Remember to start the air bleeder, then crack the valve; when stopping close the valve before you stop the air bleeder.

But again, I feel the 4" air gaps between fluid seems excessive and it's bleeding in from somewhere else.
 
Towerdog

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Ok so I pumped about another quart through it with the same air problem but towards the end I got a little vigorous with the pedal and was able to get a leak from the elbow to clutch pipe seal. Took it apart reseated the seal and this time I shoved the elbow on the pipe before inserting the clip. Gave the pedal a few pumps and only tiny bubbles!! Going to let it sit awhile with the bleeder cracked pump some more then, pressure bleed the slave when I can get my wife away from work for a few minutes.. (she actually worked from home today to help me!)
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I know everyone is likely getting tired of my recommendation to use a pressure bleeder, but one of the advantages is it makes it a one person job. And it will help find leaks by being able to apply and hold pressure for extended periods.
 
Rauq

Rauq

Goblin Guru
Gtstorey said:
I know everyone is likely getting tired of my recommendation to use a pressure bleeder, but one of the advantages is it makes it a one person job. And it will help find leaks by being able to apply and hold pressure for extended periods.
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No offense, but part of the reason we keep talking about other bleeding methods is that I think we've pretty well established that it doesn't do much for bleeding the slave cylinder itself. I inadvertently left my pressure bleeder hooked up overnight with 10 psi in the bottle; it held pressure for 24 hours but didn't get me any closer to having a functional clutch.
 
Towerdog

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
If there was a bleed screw past the slave it would work like a champ. I vac bleeded all my brakes and they are solid.... But the bleeder is the last thing in line and at the top.
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I would expect the air to rise to the top which in this case is the bleeder. I guess we all have different experiences, but it worked great on mine. I'll bow out of this one now.
 
Towerdog

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Gtstorey said:
I would expect the air to rise to the top which in this case is the bleeder. I guess we all have different experiences, but it worked great on mine. I'll bow out of this one now.
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No, Any input is better to me than none. According to GM you suck the air out of the slave via the reservoir.
 
Towerdog

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Well that sucks..... But hopefully it is a good sign. I left the bleeder open all night with no issue..... Now im hoping it is besause I found the problem in the elbow but I went to lunch and came back to find all the fluid that was in the bottle in the back had siphoned through the system and was all over the floor in the front!

I am so sick of brake fluid on my floor!!
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Towerdog said:
No, Any input is better to me than none. According to GM you suck the air out of the slave via the reservoir.
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I had seen the GM vac procedure before I did mine and had planned on doing it that way. But the handle broke on my 25 yr old mityvac the first squeeze so I swapped to the pressure bleeder.
 
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DCMoney

DCMoney

Goblin Guru
Thinking of anything that's easily forgotten about or missed upon reassembly.

Do you have the spacer plate between the transmission and engine?

As super clean as your engine is, it's still hard to tell from these photos.





 
Towerdog

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
DCMoney said:
Thinking of anything that's easily forgotten about or missed upon reassembly.

Do you have the spacer plate between the transmission and engine?

As super clean as your engine is, it's still hard to tell from these photos.





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Yes It is in there... I polished the outside edge. Now the pilot bearing that Dale E brought up made my heart stop for a minute.. Till I read there isn't one.
 
G

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
After I had the leaking elbow, I sprayed a lot of brake cleaner inside the bell housing thinking it would wash out brake fluid and/or evaporate quickly. It then proceeded to drip brake cleaner for the next 24 hrs. So it might take a while for it stop dripping.
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Towerdog said:
Put 100mi on it so far, Still have good pedal travel with no noticeable fade. There is a small puddle on the floor but I think it will take a few days to get all the fluid that was spilled inside the bellhousing out.
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Welllllll, if you really do decide to sell now, the price just increased $10k........ :)
 
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