Towerdog's Indiana Street Goblin Build (#250) 07 SS/SC Donor

[Towerdog]

I tried to get him to set the clutch pedal back to OEM configuration, maybe he'll listen to you.

It is at the OEM throw. I cut the top off the pedal and added a micro switch. to get it to fit under hood. But the stroke is still at OEM throw

 

[DCMoney]

It is at the OEM throw. I cut the top off the pedal and added a micro switch. to get it to fit under hood. But the stroke is still at OEM throw

When vac pumping from the res the brakes are involved in a way..
And I had to weld a washer as a shim in front of the pedal housing to keep the pedal from over extending. It currently is slightly over what stock was.

GLWS.

 

[Towerdog]

GLWS.

What does "GLWS" mean?

 

[DCMoney]

What does "GLWS" mean?

Good luck with sale.

 

[Towerdog]

Good luck with sale.

Ahh i have one more bleeding method i am going to try this weekend if I have time... I am not giving up just yet,,,, had a real bad day on sat with this and other stuff took a knee jerk reaction and listed it. Now I don't know how to hide it or take it.

 

[Rttoys]

Try bleeding without that bottle added to the top of the reservoir that continually adds fluid. Just thinking out loud, if that’s sealed, I wonder if that keeps from flowing fluid because without air the bottle will hold the fluid. If that makes sense.

 

[Ross]

Ahh i have one more bleeding method i am going to try this weekend if I have time... I am not giving up just yet,,,, had a real bad day on sat with this and other stuff took a knee jerk reaction and listed it. Now I don't know how to hide it or take it.

Since you started the thread "2021 Complete Goblin for sale",
you can change the title. Maybe "Not for sale"
Above post #1, Choose edit thread.

 

[Rauq]

Try bleeding without that bottle added to the top of the reservoir that continually adds fluid. Just thinking out loud, if that’s sealed, I wonder if that keeps from flowing fluid because without air the bottle will hold the fluid. If that makes sense.

That does kinda make sense. I had a similar experience with vacuum bleeding where I was pulling air in from somewhere as we previously discussed. I went from solid brakes and a so-so clutch to nothing from either system after trying to vacuum bleed from the reservoir. It was pulling a steady stream of bubbles from somewhere that I could never figure out that took out both the clutch and brake hydraulic systems.

When traditionally bleeding, I will typically take a new bottle of brake fluid and put a small hole in the foil and then turn the whole thing upside down in the neck of the reservoir. It's a little nerve-wracking because I'm worried it's going to fall over, but it never has, and it definitely doesn't seal to the neck of the reservoir. I'm with Rttoys on the possibility that you're seeing something similar to the vacuum bleeding from the reservoir issues.

One thing on my list to try is vacuum bleeding from the clutch bleed valve. Have you tried this? I checked your build thread (quickly) and didn't see that you have.

 

[Gtstorey]

Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, Pressure Bleed, etc, etc, etc, ..........

 

[Rauq]

Pressure bleeding is an incredibly effective way of removing air between the reservoir and the bleeder but in my case did not prove to be nearly as effective for air in the slave cylinder itself, unfortunately.

 

[Gtstorey]

Other than having two o-rings in the elbow causing a leak, mine just took a few minutes of bleeding each time (I did let it sit for 15-20 minutes under pressure to give air in the slave time to rise to the bleed nipple). It might also be helpful when checking for leaks, although I'm starting to suspect the problem is a bad master cylinder, even if it is new.

 

[Lonny]

The way I bleed the clutch and brake system is by using a paper cup or a plastic bottle and a small hose that fits tight over the bleeder.
Drop the hose into the cup or bottle close to the bottom.

BRAKES
For the brake system, I hook the hose to the bleeder and open it about a 1/4 turn. I usually start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.

I have someone smoothly pump the brakes all the way down and back up until the fluid coming from the bleeder has no bubbles. Tighten the bleeder and go to the next caliper. Refill the reservoir between each caliper.

CLUTCH
The clutch is a little different. First, you will bleed the system from the clutch master cylinder to the bleeder then you will bleed the air from the slave cylinder.

Hook the hose to the bleeder and open it about a 1/4 turn just like when bleeding your brakes.

For non-turbo manuals, you will smoothly pump the clutch pedal until fluid comes out with no bubbles. Close the bleeder why the pedal is still down.

For turbo manuals, you will need to press the clutch pedal down and then manually pull the pedal back up with your foot or with a piece of string tied to the clutch pedal. Turbos do not have a return spring. Again do this until the fluid comes out with no bubbles and close the bleeder why the pedal is still down.

Now we need to bleed the slave cylinder.

With the bleeder closed have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down. Open the bleeder and watch for bubbles and then close the bleeder. Repeat this step until no bubbles come out.

 

[Towerdog]

Try bleeding without that bottle added to the top of the reservoir that continually adds fluid. Just thinking out loud, if that’s sealed, I wonder if that keeps from flowing fluid because without air the bottle will hold the fluid. If that makes sense.

It is not sealed... and I just add every few pumps of the pedal to top it off. I know it shouldn't leak and has not in the past but I want zero chances of fluid in the car. Good thought though.

 

[Towerdog]

That does kinda make sense. I had a similar experience with vacuum bleeding where I was pulling air in from somewhere as we previously discussed. I went from solid brakes and a so-so clutch to nothing from either system after trying to vacuum bleed from the reservoir. It was pulling a steady stream of bubbles from somewhere that I could never figure out that took out both the clutch and brake hydraulic systems.

When traditionally bleeding, I will typically take a new bottle of brake fluid and put a small hole in the foil and then turn the whole thing upside down in the neck of the reservoir. It's a little nerve-wracking because I'm worried it's going to fall over, but it never has, and it definitely doesn't seal to the neck of the reservoir. I'm with Rttoys on the possibility that you're seeing something similar to the vacuum bleeding from the reservoir issues.

One thing on my list to try is vacuum bleeding from the clutch bleed valve. Have you tried this? I checked your build thread (quickly) and didn't see that you have.

I have valedictorian from the rear bleader.... I dont think it sucks the air from the slave properly as I have only ever had minimal travel on the pedal..
But it would make more sence to seal the res and try it.

 

[Towerdog]

The way I bleed the clutch and brake system is by using a paper cup or a plastic bottle and a small hose that fits tight over the bleeder.
Drop the hose into the cup or bottle close to the bottom.

BRAKES
For the brake system, I hook the hose to the bleeder and open it about a 1/4 turn. I usually start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder.

I have someone smoothly pump the brakes all the way down and back up until the fluid coming from the bleeder has no bubbles. Tighten the bleeder and go to the next caliper. Refill the reservoir between each caliper.

CLUTCH
The clutch is a little different. First, you will bleed the system from the clutch master cylinder to the bleeder then you will bleed the air from the slave cylinder.

Hook the hose to the bleeder and open it about a 1/4 turn just like when bleeding your brakes.

For non-turbo manuals, you will smoothly pump the clutch pedal until fluid comes out with no bubbles. Close the bleeder why the pedal is still down.

For turbo manuals, you will need to press the clutch pedal down and then manually pull the pedal back up with your foot or with a piece of string tied to the clutch pedal. Turbos do not have a return spring. Again do this until the fluid comes out with no bubbles and close the bleeder why the pedal is still down.

Now we need to bleed the slave cylinder.

With the bleeder closed have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down. Open the bleeder and watch for bubbles and then close the bleeder. Repeat this step until no bubbles come out.

Your explanation for non turbo clutch bleeding is the on I havnt tried and will be trying this weekend if I get time.

With that method I read where they put the end of the hose in fluid in the bottom of the bottle to prevent foreign air from possibly entering.

As for my brakes they are good and always have been.... vacuum bled them... when vacuum bleeding the clutch you loose brake pedal due to the vacuum sucking the pistons back in.

Thanks for your input Lonny, your time is greatly valued

 

[Rauq]

Your explanation for non turbo clutch bleeding is the one I haven't tried and will be trying this weekend if I get time.

This is the one I did this past weekend and that got me the best results. I ran a really long hose from the bleed valve up and over the frame before going back down to a cup to ensure that if anything reenters the bleed valve, it's fluid. The uphill portion of the hose remained full with fluid and it was good to be able to see bigger bubbles and entrained air in the fluid. Same idea, different approach.

 

[Towerdog]

This is the one I did this past weekend and that got me the best results. I ran a really long hose from the bleed valve up and over the frame before going back down to a cup to ensure that if anything reenters the bleed valve, it's fluid. The uphill portion of the hose remained full with fluid and it was good to be able to see bigger bubbles and entrained air in the fluid. Same idea, different approach.

So I was able to convince my client to let me cram 2 days of training into 1 long day. Got home and dove right into the Goblin. Tearing the intake, ecu, and fuse box out has become second nature by now. This is the setup I have....

I have already slowly pumped a half a quart through it and still have constant bubbles. I think they are getting less but it seems like alot for such a small line. I have the car at about a 20° angle up in the rear to alow any air to float up the hose. I am going to leave the bleeder cracked all night and let any air out that I can. Will continue to see if pumping with the bleeder cracked gets me to a point of no bubbles in the morning.

Any input would be great.

 

[Rauq]

I have already slowly pumped a half a quart through it and still have constant bubbles. I think they are getting less but it seems like alot for such a small line. I have the car at about a 20° angle up in the rear to alow any air to float up the hose. I am going to leave the bleeder cracked all night and let any air out that I can. Will continue to see if pumping with the bleeder cracked gets me to a point of no bubbles in the morning.

Any input would be great.

Are we talking about bubbles half the size of the diameter of the hose, or little tiny bubbles entrained in the fluid? It probably took me a quarter of the bottle to get through the bigger ones and then another half a bottle to get through the tiny ones. I'm planning another bleed here soon to see if I can get more of the tiny ones out by giving them a chance to rise. I'm thinking I had air in the slave and then all the cycling of the system mixed the air and fluid enough that it will take some time for it to all separate again.

 

[Towerdog]

Are we talking about bubbles half the size of the diameter of the hose, or little tiny bubbles entrained in the fluid? It probably took me a quarter of the bottle to get through the bigger ones and then another half a bottle to get through the tiny ones. I'm planning another bleed here soon to see if I can get more of the tiny ones out by giving them a chance to rise. I'm thinking I had air in the slave and then all the cycling of the system mixed the air and fluid enough that it will take some time for it to all separate again.

No we are talking up to 4" of air voids in the hose even this morning.

 

[MR.812]

And still no Leaks?