Fixed. Disabled VATS, all EVAP codes, and the catalyst protection, then bumped the line pressure for firmer shifts. Then, I pulled apart the cluster to deal with the pesky security light using a new piece of electrical tape
Early vs late is goi g to vary by the vehicle system being described. For button panels it's based on the donor steering wheel, but for the brake booster and master cylinder it's based on the approximate physical size of the MC and whether or not an aluminum spacer is present between the MC and...
I'm up in Snohomish County, but when I registered mine the total was just under $600 (including the transit permit and scalehouse fee).
http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/karls-track-goblin-no-40-2008-lt-registered.273/post-37772
I'm all about that split beam goodness. Micrometer torque wrenches can eat my entire ass and my Snap-On digital is only good at corroding/oxidizing its battery terminals.
https://www.torqwrench.com/products/split-beam-clicks/3-8-drive-split-beam-click-wrench-c2fr100f/...
The two of you are using different nuts. @Devo is using strut nuts from the donor, and you look to be using nuts supplied with the kit hardware or sourced elsewhere. The donor hardware is much taller than what you're using.
I used eyebolts as anchors at either end and ran 1/8 inch wire rope with thimbles and aluminum ferrules. Covered the sharp ends of the cable with heat shrink tubing. The tools I used were $30-ish online.
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