Fixed. Disabled VATS, all EVAP codes, and the catalyst protection, then bumped the line pressure for firmer shifts. Then, I pulled apart the cluster to deal with the pesky security light using a new piece of electrical tape
Early vs late is goi g to vary by the vehicle system being described. For button panels it's based on the donor steering wheel, but for the brake booster and master cylinder it's based on the approximate physical size of the MC and whether or not an aluminum spacer is present between the MC and...
I'm up in Snohomish County, but when I registered mine the total was just under $600 (including the transit permit and scalehouse fee).
http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/karls-track-goblin-no-40-2008-lt-registered.273/post-37772
I'm all about that split beam goodness. Micrometer torque wrenches can eat my entire ass and my Snap-On digital is only good at corroding/oxidizing its battery terminals.
https://www.torqwrench.com/products/split-beam-clicks/3-8-drive-split-beam-click-wrench-c2fr100f/...
The two of you are using different nuts. @Devo is using strut nuts from the donor, and you look to be using nuts supplied with the kit hardware or sourced elsewhere. The donor hardware is much taller than what you're using.
I used eyebolts as anchors at either end and ran 1/8 inch wire rope with thimbles and aluminum ferrules. Covered the sharp ends of the cable with heat shrink tubing. The tools I used were $30-ish online.
I just combined my running light wire with my low beam wire going to the headlights, so my setup is high, low/running, and ground; front turn signals run to the side mirrors. I used the JW Speaker model 6130 IIRC, but if I was starting over or wanted to redo the headlights, I'd use the model 8632.
I don't have that experience because I always wear a full face helmet, and as long as I don't open my visor while fueling, people don't try to tell me about how cousin's ex-boyfriend's sister's college roommate was building a twincharged buggy out of their old Neon
My radiator was marketed as a replacement for the 5th & 6th generation Honda Civic. My petcock leaked a little bit this past summer; turns out the o-ring had dried out and broken. Replaced the o-ring and no more leaks.
I've got torque seal all over my steering, suspension, and brake fasteners to help with visual verification that nothing has come loose or been tampered with.
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