Andrew's Extended Track Goblin - 08 SS/TC

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I was able to spend about 9 hours on the car this weekend.
I spent forever getting the fuel pump and sender installed. I must have taken the pump in and out 10 different time as I couldn't get the pump to seal to the top of the tank. It turns out the adaptor plate I made was too big and was resting on the jamb nuts, not letting the gasket compress.
IMG_1976.jpg


I finally got it all back together and and tank in the car. I reinstalled the intake and valve cover and mocked up the catch can placement. I now have the needed AN fitting on the way to make the lines.

After that I went to install the new CBM baffled oil pan
IMG_1967.jpg


I diligently removed the old pan and dip stick and cleaned up all the old RTV (I didn't know these pans don't have gaskets)
I went to fit the new pan and its not even close to fitting. I should have measured before hand.
It looks like the the motor in the Goblin is sitting must closer to the subframe than in the Cobalt. On the passenger side the pan is hitting the subframe by at least 3". I looked as raising the motor, but then my intercooler set up doesn't work. I though about modifying the pan, but the pickup tube would need to be completely reworked. I think you could potentially make it work with a custom sub frame, but that's out of my fabrication skill set. So I decided to abandon ship and put the old pan back in.
Not all is lost, I still needed to add a 6AN fitting for my oil separator drain back line, so I took the opportunity to clean up the old pan, drill and tap a 3/8 NPT thread for a 3/8npt to 6AN fitting.

IMG_1977.jpg


Looks like I didn't get a photo of it actually installed.... Oh well
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I started working on replacing the button panel. Unfortunately The panel I had cut out of 1/8 plastic just isn’t stiff enough. I tired adding some stiffeners, but the ways the holes are laid out doesn’t allow for a good placement. I decided to just place an order for a 3mm aluminum version. I used Front Panel Express. They have feee design software. The panel will be powder coated black and the engravings will be painted white.
40D7EC17-A08E-4F7A-A426-43368806F381.png

C0108871-DE21-4F32-AD07-96348F2E2378.jpeg
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I've been chipping away at the car. The only noticeable change at the moment is the rear wing mounting.
I want the rear wing to be above the roof line to ensure it gets all the clean air it can.
I drew some uprights and ordered MDF templates though Send Cut Send.
IMG_2147.jpg


I threw them on the car and the first results were pretty good.
The wing does look really tall, but is just above the roof line.
IMG_2148 (1).jpg


IMG_2151 (1).jpg


IMG_2149 (1).jpg


I decided to go with 3/8" spherical joints for the AOA adjustment instead of 1/4" and needed to revise the mounting points for the wing.
I printed a full scale template to check the fitment, and I think it all works.

IMG_2160.jpg


This will be my minimum angle of attack. The leading edge is parallel to the ground.
IMG_2163.jpg


This is the maximum angle of attack.
IMG_2162.jpg


On a side note, I did go down a rabbit hole this week looking at adding active aero, but decided its not worth the time and money right now.
 

Attachments

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Aaaaaaannnnnnddd they don’t work.
I screwed up the export from SketchUp to the DXF file. :mad:
They scaled up by about 15%.
I order a new set, in good news they are less expensive because they are smaller. ‍:rolleyes:
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Can't slot the holes to fit? Seems like being a little bigger is better than being a little smaller than needed. :D
I could drill some new holes to make it fit, but the whole thing is now almost 4" taller than it supposed to be. The wing already sits really really high... I don't want to make it worse. haha
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
While I wait for the revised uprights, I worked on mounting the AIM SmartyCam GP3 Bullet cam system.
Although on the expensive side, the camera integrates with the data logging dash and can be programmed to auto start and stop so I never mission a session.
I mounted the main body on the switch panel.

IMG_2182.jpg


I then played around with a few positions for the camera and this is what I think my best options are.
Position 1:
IMG_2179.jpg

Position 2:
IMG_2180.jpg

Position 3:
IMG_2181.jpg

I think I like position 3 the most.
I am not going to wrap the camera cable into the wiring harness, so I can freely move it in the future.

I also started on the reverse camera. I had it working initially, but something went wrong and it won't display any more.
IMG_2186.jpg

IMG_2188.jpg

IMG_2189.jpg

After all that I finally started digging into the one item I have dreaded the most. The dash has an Remote Input/Output expansion module that I am using to bring in the turn signals, high beams, warning lights, etc. to the dash. This wasn't working properly when I stopped working on the car and the wiring is a bit of a mess.
The module needs to know if the items are switched to ground or switch to the battery. I really didn't understand this at first and think I damaged the module by have something that is switched to battery put on a switch to ground input. So I spent a couple of hours testing to determine the proper set up.
Basically everything from the Cobalt is switched to power. There are a limited number of switched to power input, so I need to re-wire my toggle switches for the accessories to be switched to ground.
I revamped my wiring diagrams and am going to try and get it done tomorrow.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
I made it through the the nitty gritty rewiring of the input module, and it all seems to be working as it should.

The wireless buttons were not working on the steering wheel, so I figured the battery was dead, when I tired to remove the battery, the battery mount fell off the chip. Now I need to figure out how to solder it back on.

IMG_2195.jpeg



I’m getting ready to fire the mother, but have a question. I posted it in an independent thread also.

I’m getting ready to fire the motor before I brake down the whole car for paint.
For those of you with an LNF, Turbo motor…
I’ve read over and over again that the throttle body should be moving when the car is in Run before starting.
When I put the car into run, the Throttle Body opens for a few seconds then closes. If I press the throttle it opens again for a few seconds then closes again, it will no longer open after that. See the video for reference. If I turn the ignition off, it all resets.
Can someone confirm this is normal behavior, or does your throttle body freely move while In Run, pre-start

 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Dare I say the wiring is done?!?
I spent the weekend knocking out various items I’ve been putting off.
I wired in the flat tow connector to the lights.
I added the third brake light
Added a dome light
And finished all the miscellaneous sensors wiring.

The ABS seems to be up and running, though I’m not sure how to bench test it. Will probably have to wait till I can drive it.

The dash seems to be receiving all the correct ECU data and all the other various inputs appear to be working.

Next will be to zip tie all the wires into an organized bundle so I can pull the harness and wrap it.

IMG_2260.jpeg


IMG_2261.jpeg


I also go the final upright in for the wing and installed them.

IMG_2262.jpeg


IMG_2219.jpeg


My punch is is getting really short.
If I have time, I’m hoping for a 10 second first next weekend followed a bunch of miscellaneous welding and brakes.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
99.99% complete with the mock up.
Wings are mounted

IMG_2303.jpg


IMG_2298.jpeg


With the front wing the lower mounting point of the hood doesn’t work, so I added some hood pins.
IMG_2296.jpeg


IMG_2297.jpeg


I got the shifter and hand brake in and finally got the brake bias control connected.

IMG_2266.jpeg

IMG_2272.jpeg


I did manage to get the car started, but with out the tune for the 3bar sensors it won’t idle.
I just got HP tuners today and bought a ZZP remote tune. Going to try and get loaded and do more the quick start before I brake it down for powder coating
 
Last edited:

TravMac

Well-Known Member
How happy are you with the stiffness of the front wing mount? I know mine isn't sufficient, but was just a first attempt, so looking to improve it. I've seen both this solution using angled aluminum, and some folks who have incorporated tension members running to the top of the radiator mount area.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
How happy are you with the stiffness of the front wing mount? I know mine isn't sufficient, but was just a first attempt, so looking to improve it. I've seen both this solution using angled aluminum, and some folks who have incorporated tension members running to the top of the radiator mount area.
I'm a big man at 300lbs, and I can confidently stand on the wing without issue.
If the mounts on the wing were closer together, I would have gone with a narrower set of angle... but 1/4" seems to be plenty stiff.
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
So I got the new tune from ZZP and the car still won’t idle.
MAF, MAPs and vacuum lines seem to be correct.
No codes other than evap and ABS

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
So I got the new tune from ZZP and the car still won’t idle.
MAF, MAPs and vacuum lines seem to be correct.
No codes other than evap and ABS

Anyone have any suggestions?

Can you attach what zzp sent? You have opels and/or fuel cam? Did you tell them you have a goblin? They price gauge you for it but there may be some differences. Happy to take a look at your tune and see if anything stands out
 

ATMironov

Well-Known Member
Can you attach what zzp sent? You have opels and/or fuel cam? Did you tell them you have a goblin? They price gauge you for it but there may be some differences. Happy to take a look at your tune and see if anything stands out
Attached is the tune. They also sent New Layout and Channels, but I can't upload them here.
All the internals on the motor are stock, I just have the 3 bar map sensors.
I did tell them and pay for the custom car tune.

I haven't sent it back to ZZP yet. Before I waste a bunch of their time, I want to make everything is correct on my end.
 

Attachments

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Attached is the tune. They also sent New Layout and Channels, but I can't upload them here.
All the internals on the motor are stock, I just have the 3 bar map sensors.
I did tell them and pay for the custom car tune.

I haven't sent it back to ZZP yet. Before I waste a bunch of their time, I want to make everything is correct on my end.
typically you can fake forum file rules by changing the extension.
 
Top