I Have my donor car running, (2007 Cobalt SS with supercharger) it’s a 5 speed and the engine runs well. I cannot get any motion no matter what gear I put it in, the linkage is attached and in order. There isn’t any noise or rpm decrease when releasing the clutch pedal. I was told at the salvage yard that the car ran and moved under its own power. So, I’m pulling the engine but was wondering if this is a somewhat common thing. I’ll be pulling the trans anyway but I thought someone might know what to look for. The axles turn against the differential when the trans is in gear so I’m thinking the pinion is OK. Thanks, I tried searching the subject but no joy
Clutch will not engage
- Thread starter Gr8wheels
- Start date
It's hard for a clutch to fail so completely that it won't do anything, not even make noise. About the only way I can think that I wouldn't make noise would be a broken input shaft on the transmission. I would think even stripped splines on the clutch plate would make noise.
Thanks, I think. I was afraid of that, something that may be above my paygrade to fix. I'll be investigating the issue when I return next Wednesday from visiting my son. The car was owned by a young nurse that took excellent care of it from what I can see and at 67,000 miles just did a small front-end boo-boo that left it driveable, but economically totaled. A mystery, but that's what makes this stuff interesting. I probably speak for some others here when I say that, troubleshooting while frustrating at times is rewarding as hell when we figure it out.
BTW I tried to contact the previous owner through the phone numbers I got from google, (she left some paperwork & candy bar wrappers in the car) no joy there either. The phone numbers I gleaned from there were not in service.
I wanted to let her know that I found a pair of small diamond earrings in one of the compartments. They look real to me. She may have shed some light on the issue---- perhaps. If you happen to know a Nurse in the Detroit area, and the previous owner of a 2007 black Cobalt SS missing a pair of earrings, let me know.
Stay tuned, when I figure it out, I'll post it here.
BTW I tried to contact the previous owner through the phone numbers I got from google, (she left some paperwork & candy bar wrappers in the car) no joy there either. The phone numbers I gleaned from there were not in service.
I wanted to let her know that I found a pair of small diamond earrings in one of the compartments. They look real to me. She may have shed some light on the issue---- perhaps. If you happen to know a Nurse in the Detroit area, and the previous owner of a 2007 black Cobalt SS missing a pair of earrings, let me know.
Stay tuned, when I figure it out, I'll post it here.
OK, it’s been a while but health issues have kept me out of the shop.
The engine is out and separated from the transmission. When I unbolted the pressure plate, there was no tension and in fact I had to pry it from the flywheel.
So hopefully that’s the issue. The clutch friction disk looked relatively unused on one side but the pressure plate showed signs of extreme over heatng.
For peace of mind, I’m going to drop the transmission off at a local shop for an inspection.
I wish I were more tech savvy as I would post pictures and start a build page but email is about my limit. The trans. Tag reads:
FZ55560937 above hat it reads: S 27161 F11902
and the lower right corner reads: 1= 4.05
can anybody confirm that it’s a LSD AND THE RATIO IS 4.05/1?
thank you,
Pete
Have m told my frame package will be ready for shipping 6/15/22
Whoppie!
,,
The engine is out and separated from the transmission. When I unbolted the pressure plate, there was no tension and in fact I had to pry it from the flywheel.
So hopefully that’s the issue. The clutch friction disk looked relatively unused on one side but the pressure plate showed signs of extreme over heatng.
For peace of mind, I’m going to drop the transmission off at a local shop for an inspection.
I wish I were more tech savvy as I would post pictures and start a build page but email is about my limit. The trans. Tag reads:
FZ55560937 above hat it reads: S 27161 F11902
and the lower right corner reads: 1= 4.05
can anybody confirm that it’s a LSD AND THE RATIO IS 4.05/1?
thank you,
Pete
Have m told my frame package will be ready for shipping 6/15/22
Whoppie!
,,
Desert Sasqwatch
Goblin Guru
Hmm, does the clutch disc go in only one way? Some setups do, not certain about the F35 clutch setup, but that could explain the weird wear and non-working clutch.
Well Sasq, that may very well be the answer here. The disk springs protrude a bit on one side so perhaps somebody was able to put a clutch in backward and it worked long enough to have the car get in an accident. The salvage yard may have "Joy Rode" the car until the pressure plate reached the melting point. They did list it as starting and moving under its own power.
I'm doing research now to find a heavy-duty or race set-up, I saw a video with an aluminum flywheel H-D kit, I'll bet that winds up quick.
I'm doing research now to find a heavy-duty or race set-up, I saw a video with an aluminum flywheel H-D kit, I'll bet that winds up quick.
Depending on your power target, I bet most people would recommend against a higher spec clutch. The stock clutch works just fine up to 300 or 350hp, depending on who you ask. It's also smooth and easy to drive.
Most race setups are going to sacrifice drivability, to support power that you probably won't have.
Unless you're doing a crazy turbo swap and planning to hit 400+ hp, I would personally put a quality OEM style clutch back in.
Scott #321
Well-Known Member
I echo this as I went with a stage 3 clutch and smooth starting in first is quite an accomplishment now.
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
My $0.02
My Turbo is tuned to 300 hp.
ZZP Clutch Masters stage 3 clutch
I am quite happy with performance.
First gear jerking is mitigated by keeping the right foot solidly against the tunnel. Stops the oscillations.
dfkitcar.com
My Turbo is tuned to 300 hp.
ZZP Clutch Masters stage 3 clutch
I am quite happy with performance.
First gear jerking is mitigated by keeping the right foot solidly against the tunnel. Stops the oscillations.
Jason in Texas - ext. track - 09 SS/TC
I did a pretty good job bagging and labeling my hardware. The labels are mostly like "dash", or "seatbelts". The actual technical names by their size is still a little foreign to me. I found a good Layover Chart". Kind of like Bolts for Dummies...... Scroll to the bottom for the metric...
I have the GM stage one upgrade on my turbo car that is supposed to put it around 295hp.
If I power shift from 2nd to 3rd it smells like the clutch is slipping a little. It hooks and goes and might get better when it gets the new rubbed off.
It is a new OEM pressure plate and a new OEM clutch disc on a used flywheel.
If I ever have to get back in there I will switch to a stiffer pressure plate. Probably like Jason's.
If I power shift from 2nd to 3rd it smells like the clutch is slipping a little. It hooks and goes and might get better when it gets the new rubbed off.
It is a new OEM pressure plate and a new OEM clutch disc on a used flywheel.
If I ever have to get back in there I will switch to a stiffer pressure plate. Probably like Jason's.
Dyno man
Member
You should’ve had your old boss grind your flywheel said he would give you a deal LOL
JBINTX
Goblin Guru
more info - With more than two years of hard driving and all the autoX, I am not aware of any slippage.
Has proven to be a good setup for this power range.