Congrats Chad! It is great to get things working well....
As an example, while driving and you close the throttle to use the engine braking, that really screws up the logging! Manuals are hard to drive and tune!
I put in filters to help filter out some of the junk. Then after changing the tables, I would manual smooth some areas. That helped a lot.Congrats Chad! It is great to get things working well.
I have learned to scrutinize the logged data before I apply it to my tune. If the data is wonky, I just throw it out, but I have learned to: 1. wait until the engine is up to temperature, and 2. Don't hit the rev limiter. Both will make the data wonky.
Engine deceleration is okay, if you turn off deceleration fuel cut off (DFCO). I do this by setting the DFCO Enable ECT = 300F (engine coolant temp).
Once you do that, then the engine stays at stoichiometric during deceleration.
Nice work man I know this was a pain but you learned a ton. I have actually paused on upgrading cams and springs because of how reliable my tune is at this point trying to enjoy the power that I have and its actually kind of nice just cruising and knocking out a few Auto-X events without worrying about blowing up engine for now.I've been working on tuning the car with HP Tuners since changing the fuel system over to a boost-reference fuel pressure system and changing the type of injectors. I ran into a lot of little abnormal issues along the way. First the return line filter kept getting clogged not allowing fuel to return and the pressure would sky-rocket to 90PSI! Once I figured that out, the fuel pump itself went out (and was less than a year old). After that my wideband O2 sensor died (do not think you can get away without running the heating element of the O2 sensor for very long). I upgraded to a newer version of O2 sensor (from 4.2 to 4.9) and a new AEM gauge. That helped a lot!
Most of the issues I was having using HP Tuners what the data logging would contain such a wide varying set of numbers and I was chasing the numbers all the time. In one log, it would want to lean it way out in one cell and the next time would want to richen it up, then lean it out, and I could never get close to stoich and keep it there. I ends up it has a lot to do with driving style and how you log it. I won't go into great detail, but I learned a hell of a lot in a short amount of time. As an example, while driving and you close the throttle to use the engine braking, that really screws up the logging! Manuals are hard to drive and tune!
Tonight I finished up the VE tuning and worked on the MAF tuning. Same thing, I depends a lot on how you run the car to get the best results. But I finally got to the point that I don't think it's going to get much better. And all I can say is ****! I'm happy with the results! I have finally got rid of the choppy throttle, occasional backfire, and other issues. It's no longer running pig rich. I'm sure it's not perfect, but it is a hell of a lot better than it was. Later this fall, I'm going to work on the tuning the timing for just a bit more HP.
Wierd. DFCO is still active on your log file.
I wish I had the drive to try to learn the tuning part of this. I am battling some of the same problems as you. Rich, Surging idle ( searching for stoich), and a intermittent dead spot as the boost starts to come in. I am just too busy right now with some home water issues and general life to try to tackle this. The car is drive able but not right.I've been working on tuning the car with HP Tuners since changing the fuel system over to a boost-reference fuel pressure system and changing the type of injectors. I ran into a lot of little abnormal issues along the way. First the return line filter kept getting clogged not allowing fuel to return and the pressure would sky-rocket to 90PSI! Once I figured that out, the fuel pump itself went out (and was less than a year old). After that my wideband O2 sensor died (do not think you can get away without running the heating element of the O2 sensor for very long). I upgraded to a newer version of O2 sensor (from 4.2 to 4.9) and a new AEM gauge. That helped a lot!
Most of the issues I was having using HP Tuners what the data logging would contain such a wide varying set of numbers and I was chasing the numbers all the time. In one log, it would want to lean it way out in one cell and the next time would want to richen it up, then lean it out, and I could never get close to stoich and keep it there. I ends up it has a lot to do with driving style and how you log it. I won't go into great detail, but I learned a hell of a lot in a short amount of time. As an example, while driving and you close the throttle to use the engine braking, that really screws up the logging! Manuals are hard to drive and tune!
Tonight I finished up the VE tuning and worked on the MAF tuning. Same thing, I depends a lot on how you run the car to get the best results. But I finally got to the point that I don't think it's going to get much better. And all I can say is ****! I'm happy with the results! I have finally got rid of the choppy throttle, occasional backfire, and other issues. It's no longer running pig rich. I'm sure it's not perfect, but it is a hell of a lot better than it was. Later this fall, I'm going to work on the tuning the timing for just a bit more HP.
When you get to that point, I and others can help to get you a better tune.I wish I had the drive to try to learn the tuning part of this. I am battling some of the same problems as you. Rich, Surging idle ( searching for stoich), and a intermittent dead spot as the boost starts to come in. I am just too busy right now with some home water issues and general life to try to tackle this. The car is drive able but not right.
Sounds very legit!Throttle body relearn?
I'll look into that and give it a try. Thanks!New Throttle Body - Relearn Process?
Considering replacing the throttle body on my '06 balt myself based on feedback I got from a shop. Anyone have the relearn procedure? I could have sworn I've seen it posted on here but I can't find it. Should have looked harder, found I think the post I was thinking of: Throttle Learn...www.yourcobalt.com
Or maybe something like this could help?
throttle - controllers - chevrolet - VITESSE MOTORSPORTS
throttle - controllers - chevrolet - VITESSE MOTORSPORTS. Our Controllers are tuned for your specific engine, not like the competition that will sell a one unit fits all. The built-in memory keeps the last setting.www.vitesse-motorsports.com
This could help me also. Since I went to the LSJ throttle body when installing the S/CNew Throttle Body - Relearn Process?
Considering replacing the throttle body on my '06 balt myself based on feedback I got from a shop. Anyone have the relearn procedure? I could have sworn I've seen it posted on here but I can't find it. Should have looked harder, found I think the post I was thinking of: Throttle Learn...www.yourcobalt.com
Check this table. 0-2 columns set to 0 all the way down, keep 3 at 15. That should do itI did disable the DFCO the same way you described. Maybe there is more that needed to be done to make sure it doesn't come in to play. Either way the commanded and actual would be way off in certain areas and just changing the driving style would affect it.
The Torque Management isn't the same between the two. ZZP set this table to all 100 giving max torque at all RPM and desired torque ranges. Made the car horrible to drive. The throttle was way to touchy. This is not stock but a happy medium. I may have to play with this to see if it makes any changes and I can find a setting that works but is still driveable.Check this table. 0-2 columns set to 0 all the way down, keep 3 at 15. That should do it
This is for an LNF but I would imagine the same would apply for the LSJ. This topic starts at 6:05 but the whole video could help with additional details.