Dan Perry - 4" Extended Street
- Thread starter DanPerryy
- Start date
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
Worked 2 full days, seat belt attachment for 3 passengers, seat frame painted and installed, sub frame installed BTW, INSTALL FRONT MOTOR MOUNT ON ENGINE PRIOR TO INSTALLING ENGINE. It is a pain to get it in after engine installed on automatic. The automatic trans is 1.5 inches closer to the tank and the bolt in the middle is long. Thanks Lonny for helping me.
I also got some towing oiling mods to my HHR trans. I will do an entire post about what I am doing
I also got some towing oiling mods to my HHR trans. I will do an entire post about what I am doing
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
A no-name eBay 2X 4POINT 2" WIDE BLACK STRAP HARNESS SAFETY CAMLOCK STYLE RACING SEAT BELT+BOLT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281397802575?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
A pair for $50. They are OK.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281397802575?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
A pair for $50. They are OK.
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
Last weekend 12 hours: Worked on my AT shifter, transmission oil pump. Prep brake calipers, axle CV boots WARNING!!!. I bought some universal CV boots mostly because I got some over-spray when I painted my axles months ago. The inboard CV joint is scalloped and not round for accepting a boot. GM has some piece of their boot to conform with the shape. I had pulled one axle CV's apart and was going to replace the boots (actually all 4). Well the universal boot only works on the outside CV joint. I called the dealer to get a stock boot for the one I had pulled off. It was over $60 and there were NONE in stock in Texas. Got a new axle and I will have to paint it now. Don't pull the boots unless they are bad.
My shifter (3 passenger goblin - no shifter in the tunnel, mine is on the left side by my thigh). At some point I will a lockout on the shifter but for now it works great.
My shifter (3 passenger goblin - no shifter in the tunnel, mine is on the left side by my thigh). At some point I will a lockout on the shifter but for now it works great.
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
A great weekend! 16 hours. I am nearly finished with stage II, I ordered my stage III parts.
Rear suspension completed, brakes, hoses and brake lines installed. I will use the anti-sway at least initially - Lonny and Adam say it make the rear end a bit looser, I like to slide the rear end so we will see.
New brake pads all around. My 15" front wheels slightly rubbed the front calipers. See pictures. I ground just a bit of the calipers where they rubbed. Easy, quick.
Also remounted the brake fluid reservoir
Got my seat belt, head rest bar back from powder coating. I have to cut down the seat belts too long as they mount high on the bar behind the seat where the head rests go.
My newly covered seats should be done this week.
I had to move the little oil pump for the automatic transmission I will use when towing the car. It was in the way of the rear toe link bar (oops).
I was thinking that I would have been able to drive it Saturday but I have a few bolts to tighten and a few other loose ends to clean up. This next weekend for sure I will be able to drive it.
On the backside of the wheel image notice the slight line where it was rubbing. I could have put a spacer behind the sheel offseting a bit more but it was easy to just take a bit of the caliper. See the grind marks.
I will connect my tow bar to these heim joints (I used them instead of the nut on the bolt)
On this image you can see the headrest / seat belt bar behind the seat. I just have one head rest / seat belt mounted as I need to pull it back off to get the seat belts cut down
Rear suspension completed, brakes, hoses and brake lines installed. I will use the anti-sway at least initially - Lonny and Adam say it make the rear end a bit looser, I like to slide the rear end so we will see.
New brake pads all around. My 15" front wheels slightly rubbed the front calipers. See pictures. I ground just a bit of the calipers where they rubbed. Easy, quick.
Also remounted the brake fluid reservoir
Got my seat belt, head rest bar back from powder coating. I have to cut down the seat belts too long as they mount high on the bar behind the seat where the head rests go.
My newly covered seats should be done this week.
I had to move the little oil pump for the automatic transmission I will use when towing the car. It was in the way of the rear toe link bar (oops).
I was thinking that I would have been able to drive it Saturday but I have a few bolts to tighten and a few other loose ends to clean up. This next weekend for sure I will be able to drive it.
On the backside of the wheel image notice the slight line where it was rubbing. I could have put a spacer behind the sheel offseting a bit more but it was easy to just take a bit of the caliper. See the grind marks.
I will connect my tow bar to these heim joints (I used them instead of the nut on the bolt)
Attachments
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
A couple of things learned:
I lost the clips to hold the brake lines (4 needed). O'Reilly they are called brake hose locks.
I also lost the front brake hoses for connecting from the frame to the front A arms - new aftermarket about $30 for the pair. The came from the rear of the Coblat and were called the "inner brake hose". They were net stocked at MOST autoparts store.
When painting calipers, the brake fluid feed hole is plugged BUT the area around the plug needs NOT to be painted. There are little copper washers that act as seals and the brake fluid / seals need not to contact paint
When collapsing the rear springs it is difficult to not mess up the paint on the springs. My springs had some plastic coat on them
Although left and right brake brackets for connecting the calipers to hubs look symmetrical ther is a little tab that prevents the bracket from connecting to the wrong side
I lost the clips to hold the brake lines (4 needed). O'Reilly they are called brake hose locks.
I also lost the front brake hoses for connecting from the frame to the front A arms - new aftermarket about $30 for the pair. The came from the rear of the Coblat and were called the "inner brake hose". They were net stocked at MOST autoparts store.
When painting calipers, the brake fluid feed hole is plugged BUT the area around the plug needs NOT to be painted. There are little copper washers that act as seals and the brake fluid / seals need not to contact paint
When collapsing the rear springs it is difficult to not mess up the paint on the springs. My springs had some plastic coat on them
Although left and right brake brackets for connecting the calipers to hubs look symmetrical ther is a little tab that prevents the bracket from connecting to the wrong side
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
My recovered seats. The seat bottom is from a rear seat of coupe / SS (deeper bucket than a sedan). The rear seat backs are the same for coupes and sedans. I trimmed the outside seat back corners to follow the lines of the roll bar. The seat bottom is un trimmed. It is a bit tight fitting in the frame but I hope it will not not get too much of wrinkle in it. I paid $650 for the recover.
![WP_20170214_001[1].jpg](https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?attachments/wp_20170214_001-1-jpg.739/)
Last edited:
Silverback
Well-Known Member
Great to see another Goblin rolling - Cheers!
Silverback
Well-Known Member
It doesn't get much better than a go-kart with few hundred horsepower ;-)
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Would you mind sharing where you got the Heim joint for the tow bar? My trailer isn't big enough for the assembled goblin and I need to get it to the alignment shop.
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
This weekend - 12 hours - fixed a couple of leaks, bled the brakes (did a quick job to drive it), steering column and wheel. The big thing the weekend was adjusting the suspension. Turns out is is pretty easy. First do the rear - ride height is just the springs. The camber is set by the brackets, the toe in - I set mine to 1/8".
The front - when I was assembling it i was thinking it was going to be a real pain to adjust it - NOT so - it is real easy and quick.
In assembly, the top A arm heim joints are bottomed out except for the top inside front. Lonny wanted a bit more caster so my top inside is 3/8" out from bottom. The top outside is bottomed out. Camber is adjusted by the bottom outside if you do it the way I did it.
On assembly, the bottom inside are out about 3 full turns from bottomed out. The bottom outside are out 1/2 inch or so.
To adjust, measure camber with suspension settled. Jack up car, remove wheels. On the bottom outside heim joint attaching bolt stick a large screwdriver in the front hub to keep the top of the bolt from turning and undo the bolt. Get a 2X4 (and cut ) about 18" long, sorry I did not measure it. Once the bottom bolt is removed on the heim joint just lift the entire hub assembly brake and all and hold it up by putting the 2x4 under it. The you can adjust the outside heim joint. I thing 2 full turns are about 1 degree. Someone else should measure. I put the toe in nearly right when adjusting the camber. I could make an adjustment in 10 minutes. I set my front camber at 1.5 degrees. I will play with it. My toe in is set to 1/8" but I think it needs a bit more.
I had fun testing it this weekend. It is really quick, but I was concentrating on handling first. When I started my car was real "darty". It has come together but I still have some more adjustment work to do.
The front - when I was assembling it i was thinking it was going to be a real pain to adjust it - NOT so - it is real easy and quick.
In assembly, the top A arm heim joints are bottomed out except for the top inside front. Lonny wanted a bit more caster so my top inside is 3/8" out from bottom. The top outside is bottomed out. Camber is adjusted by the bottom outside if you do it the way I did it.
On assembly, the bottom inside are out about 3 full turns from bottomed out. The bottom outside are out 1/2 inch or so.
To adjust, measure camber with suspension settled. Jack up car, remove wheels. On the bottom outside heim joint attaching bolt stick a large screwdriver in the front hub to keep the top of the bolt from turning and undo the bolt. Get a 2X4 (and cut ) about 18" long, sorry I did not measure it. Once the bottom bolt is removed on the heim joint just lift the entire hub assembly brake and all and hold it up by putting the 2x4 under it. The you can adjust the outside heim joint. I thing 2 full turns are about 1 degree. Someone else should measure. I put the toe in nearly right when adjusting the camber. I could make an adjustment in 10 minutes. I set my front camber at 1.5 degrees. I will play with it. My toe in is set to 1/8" but I think it needs a bit more.
I had fun testing it this weekend. It is really quick, but I was concentrating on handling first. When I started my car was real "darty". It has come together but I still have some more adjustment work to do.