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Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I must default to someone who’s swapped a SC in. I wonder if the tank is different on a SC Goblin. Mine is the newer plastic one and allows some room in that region.
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
Your alternator looks different than mine off memory. Maybe that's why. Maybe not though. Hard to tell from my pics
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
Mines kit #110. Your's is a very early model. Maybe it's different sized tank? I'm not sure tbh. If you get some measurements of tank and tank position I can try and compare it.
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
Which way it spins doesn't matter BTW. At least for the 2.2/2.4/2.0TC. The LSJ one can only be spun one way
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
I believe the very early SN chassis with a metal tank that is the same width from end to end? (Take a photo and post yours). Later SN chassis with a metal tank is 'notched' next to the engine. This 'notch' made additional clearance for the SC engine, but benefitted everyone else with the extra space.
 

jirwin

Goblin Guru
I know Rich said this car was an LTZ, which had every option available and it's an auto, which make make a difference is amperage size? If it were a tad bit smaller, I think it would fit?
That's my theory. Greater amperage, larger body. I suggest stopping by autoparts and comparing alternator sizes. If it doesn't fit, just return it
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
Any pictures of your engine mounts? IIRC, you might be able to slide the engine/trans rearward to free up room. I did a bunch of mock up and test fitting when designing my larger fuel tank with the S/C intake manifold in place. I had my mock-up block set is the farthest back holes on the chassis as I could and had PLENTY of room.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
It is HIGHLY advisable to not have ANY loose foreign objects floating around loose anywhere in your engine.

I am quite curious as to what is different about yours that wont allow the S/C kit to fit. The intake manifold sticks out just as far as the alternator and you'll need additional room to fit the coolant hoses onto the manifold.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Well, if that's the case, mine is definitely not notched on the pulleys side... I'm honestly thinking about not even doing this SC swap, it's starting to become a PITA!
Just calm down a touch. This is kit car life, obstacles and solutions. If you get blinded by the problem then you can’t think through the problem. Problems are frustrating but finding the solution is so very rewarding. The solution is never just give up, that’s what stops many from even completing a project.

My tank on the alternator side is only 6.5 inches from the frame towards the alternator with about 1.5 inches of space between the alt and fuel cell. It is definitely wider over by the fuel pump and ‘dents’ in right after the pump. How wide is your tank at that point?
 
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Dale E

Well-Known Member
I build to drive or I buy to drive! Little improvements along the way and maintain well.

What's your end goal? You've changed directions a couple of times even wanting to go ATV.
Buy taller tires/wheels if you want that. Your suspension is set for street driving and won't work well as ATV.

Why do you need alternator spacers? Can you shorten the spacers and make it work?

A picture from @jirwin build log shows a supercharger/alternator with no spacers -- page 18 post 352

As @Robinjo said -- stay calm. If you want it you will find a way to make it happen.

As with many others, Your pocket is making decisions and you have not been able to enjoy the uniqueness and pleasure of the Goblin. It should be bringing smiles instead of frowny face emojis.

Re-evaluate your goals and find a way to achieve them! There are many willing to guide and advise along the path. Other forums and internet sites for help. Use the tools offered.

Your greatest power is choice! Step back, take a breath, and start anew!
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
OK, Agree with others that need to step back and get recentered.
1. It is a PITA. No doubt about it
2. It is sooooo worth it. The speed, the noise.
3. Tuning will take a while. I am still tweaking and on tune revision 73.
4. Because of the automatic, your engine sits 1" closer than DF designed the SC engine to go. ZZP did NOT design the add on kit with Goblins in mind, nor did DF.
5. You have a few options:
a. Get the true SC pulley set up. I did and it all fits. Super tight but fits. Change those bolts from socket head to hex head.
b. See if another alternator fits, but I don't suspect it will matter how much you are off by
c. See if you can shift the fuel tank to the driver side to give bolt clearance but you will need new fuel hose and maybe filler neck (both available). I kept the EVAP canister so actually moved it to the passenger side a few inches.
d. Check the belt routing and see if there is room to shave down the spacers to make fit yet still keeps the belts from rubbing.
e. You still have all the joys or routing the IC pump hoses as you also have almost no room there.

Read my build logs as my SC swap should be very similar to your needs.

Joe
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
...
My tank on the alternator side is only 6.5 inches from the frame towards the alternator with about 1.5 inches of space between the alt and fuel cell. It is definitely wider over by the fuel pump and ‘dents’ in right after the pump. How wide is your tank at that point?
DF made 2 tank shapes when they were welding up aluminum gas tanks.
The turbo and SC cars had the dent in the right after the fuel pump. The NA cars didn't have a dent, and had a bigger tank.
The turbo cars had 8 holes drilled for the fuel pump, while the SC tank only has 5 holes drilled.
 
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