Engine heat management

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Many builders have been addressing heat management on their Goblin builds. I know those out in Arizona are taking some extreme measure to mitigate it (Sasquatch, Tim). I thought I would open up a thread to aggregate some thoughts and opinions. Some of the guys with more track time have some different insights as well.

My 2009 SS/Tc has a small oil to water cooler just to the side of the oil filter housing. I am not sure if the supercharged and normally aspirated versions have the same as well.

I am curious on others thoughts about its capacity to remove heat versus a remote add-on version. ZZP makes an adapter plate that bolts directly in place of the oil to water heat exchanger.
https://zzperformance.com/collections/ecotec/products/oil-cooler-adapter

I guess my question is this - would the external oil cooler make a minor improvement, or would it be a HUGE improvement? I was thinking of a small oil cooler like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Derale-15830-Econo-Cool-Remote-Cooler/dp/B000GVIP5A/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=derale+15830&qid=1593738932&s=automotive&sr=1-1

I have already added some engine ice to the coolant which is a small improvement for a small amount of $$.

Another builder in the area, Scott (SacTX), is adding an external oil cooler as well. He even mentioned that the water supply to the original oil to water cooler could be looped - or even sent to another small heat exchanger as well. That would add cooling capacity for the oil AND the water as well. Seems like an easy and good idea. Doing both of these would remove some heat going into the main cooling system.

I know Russel (Rttoys) upgraded his radiator fan to a stronger one. This is a pretty simple idea that would be a small improvement.

Indie Lonnie has addressed taking in cold air over hotter engine air here. This is maybe the beginning way to address heat in one way.
http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/things-to-do-while-quarantined.1663/

I have added some scoops to the rear sides my Goblin (post to come soon) to move more cool air into the engine compartment. Very simple and cheap. It has proven effective. Others have done some other forms of air flow management in the rear.


So, what would be your list of things to do in order of best bang for the buck? Or biggest improvement first?
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Move the intercooler where is can get some more air.
I did fabricate some new mounts (3 metal straps, 1"x4" and 3 hose clamps),
and I put a low profile filler spot at the top, which consisted of a street T and a plug. About $20, to relocate the DF radiator.
Clear blue fluid lines are optional.
15348
15350

The LSJ SC engine does have an oil to water cooler like the LNF does.
I did use HP Tuners to turn my radiator fan on at 205F instead of 223F which was the stock setting in 2006 for the LSJ.
So far, I don't need any additional cooling for Arkansas. The engine normally runs around 180-190F.
I need more HP to justify more cooling!
 
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ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I did use HP Tuners to turn my radiator fan on at 205F instead of 223F which was the stock setting in 2006 for the LSJ.
So far, I don't need any additional cooling for Arkansas. The engine normally runs around 180-190F.
I need more HP to justify more cooling!
I noticed tonight while sitting in the driveway doing some tuning that the fan finally kicked on. Kaleb said he has heard it before but it's so quiet that I have not. Oddly, it started up at 194F. And I haven't played with any of the settings. May be different for our 2007 SS/SC.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I noticed tonight while sitting in the driveway doing some tuning that the fan finally kicked on. Kaleb said he has heard it before but it's so quiet that I have not. Oddly, it started up at 194F. And I haven't played with any of the settings. May be different for our 2007 SS/SC.
I hope so. 2006 SS SC was set wrong from the factory. 223F is way too hot for that fan, IMO. It is the only year that I am aware of that has it so high.
 

Rttoys

Well-Known Member
As hot as it is down here, “on all the time“, is not a bad thing.

I changed my fans to Spal fans. They pull/push a lot more air than the stock fans. I wish I still had my flow meter to know the exact difference. right now, they are setup to turn on at factory settings. I’ll probably tune that to a much lower temp, here soon, but will also have a fan override switch to turn it on when I want. I have my diesel truck setup this way. I have one fan turn on with ignition and one with heat. When I pull a trailer or sitting in traffic, I turn all on with a switch.
 
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