Engine pulled from car. Now what?

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Even with only 75K on the clock, would recommend replacing the timing chain guide bolt. The factory one will fail and replacement is cheap insurance for engine longevity. :D


It's simply removing the old one and installing the new one.
It's as easy as remove and install if you do it now. Later, when (not if) it breaks it'll be a lot more involved. It took longer to find the right socket than removal and installation of the new part.

That cable should be connected to the handle directly. You don't need the longer cables that connect to the actual brakes as DF supplies new cables.
View attachment 36622
My kit didn't come with the parking brake cables. I bought replacements for the stock SS cables. Mine were rusty and one was seized.
1666959436699.png
 

Blue Man

Well-Known Member
They have that link to purchase the SS cables in the parts list. Is that link accurate? I followed it and it listed cable I’m assuming it’s the correct one. And then I would just buy two, right?
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I purchased that number and it works. Now, how you route it in the kit car is very much open to interpretation. My part number listed in the picture is for a 2006 SS/SC. I don't know if the later models still used the same number. It was very easy to install after the car was running and driving, maybe 30-45 minutes of work. But I already had my handle mounted onto the tunnel cover.

You are correct, 2 cables are needed.
 

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Sorry. I think you’re right that the cables don’t come in the kit. Now that I think about it, I ordered some from rock auto and I just had them would up in the box with the rest of the parking brake kit.

Apologies for the misdirection.
 

Blue Man

Well-Known Member
cutting the car up as I type.

What is this? Do I need it? Everything is getting hauled to the salvage yard in a couple of hours and I'm trying not to haul off things I need.

Thanks!
 

Attachments

Lndshrk Steve

Well-Known Member
Looks like an fuel tank evap. canister. If so, you don't need it . . . but if it comes off easy, better have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
 

averageJOEschmo

Active Member
Even with only 75K on the clock, would recommend replacing the timing chain guide bolt. The factory one will fail and replacement is cheap insurance for engine longevity. :D


It's simply removing the old one and installing the new one.
Sasqwatch, correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like this is the same part on Amazon:
Dorman 917-954 Timing Chain Guide Bolt Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX) https://a.co/d/8VgkTWt

If the original isn't currently broken, is it really as easy as removing the cap and bolt and then putting the new bolt in? No need to pull the header off to hold the guide in place while installing the new bolt?

Thanks for the heads up, I wasn't aware of this issue.
 

Lndshrk Steve

Well-Known Member
Yep, it's that easy. And yes the Dorman part is essentially the same part that ZZP sells. Best to replace it BEFORE it breaks, since the stock bolt will break at some point.:D
Do you have to pull the valve cover to make sure it seats properly, or just take one out and put the better one in?
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
The only cables DF provides is for the shifter. You'll need ALL brake related cables, tubes etc from the donor.
 

Joebob

Goblin Guru
If you have drum brakes, you will need to buy cables for a disk brake car ($20), but the tubes are needed just the same.
 
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