Escapepilot’s 06 SS/SC Ext Track Build - COMPLETED

escapepilot

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
I got the build bug pretty bad in the spring and started looking for a donor. I got really lucky when a NA LS prospect didn’t let me know where to meet him when it was time so I jumped on Marketplace and found an 06 SS/SC that had only been posted about 45 minutes. It has some areas of concern, but I’ll deal with those later. It’s mostly complete so I picked it up that night and ordered #316 the next day.

#316 arrived Sunday morning (see arrival pick in ‘A Peek into DF Kit Car’ thread) and after doing a semi-inventory (opened boxes and verified contents matched packing list) I decided to start with checking how I was going to mount the side panels. I’m wanting to powder coat, so if I need to add any mounting tabs, now is the time.
25923

I’m leaning towards using 6-32 aviation machine screws and tapping holes in the frame and tabs to attach the panels. Anyone have a good reason to NOT use those screws?

The panels fit pretty good so I may only add one or two tabs and maybe add one more screw and hole on the top tube between the V area of the upright tubes after the horizontal tube bends from the front to the side.
25925
 
jayrolls

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
escapepilot said:
I got the build bug pretty bad in the spring and started looking for a donor. I got really lucky when a NA LS prospect didn’t let me know where to meet him when it was time so I jumped on Marketplace and found an 06 SS/SC that had only been posted about 45 minutes. It has some areas of concern, but I’ll deal with those later. It’s mostly complete so I picked it up that night and ordered #316 the next day.

#316 arrived Sunday morning (see arrival pick in ‘A Peek into DF Kit Car’ thread) and after doing a semi-inventory (opened boxes and verified contents matched packing list) I decided to start with checking how I was going to mount the side panels. I’m wanting to powder coat, so if I need to add any mounting tabs, now is the time.
View attachment 25923
I’m leaning towards using 6-32 aviation machine screws and tapping holes in the frame and tabs to attach the panels. Anyone have a good reason to NOT use those screws?

The panels fit pretty good so I may only add one or two tabs and maybe add one more screw and hole on the top tube between the V area of the upright tubes after the horizontal tube bends from the front to the side.
View attachment 25925
Click to expand...
I don’t have mine yet, but I am leaning towards rivnuts. Should make for a clean attachment.
 
R

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Just don’t screw into the bottom rail due to the radiator hoses. I’d also recommend screws that are long enough for a rubber washer between the panel and the tubes. Otherwise they’ll vibrate on each other and drive you nuts. Not to mention probably screw up the powder coat
 
jayrolls

jayrolls

Well-Known Member
r3drckt said:
Just don’t screw into the bottom rail due to the radiator hoses. I’d also recommend screws that are long enough for a rubber washer between the panel and the tubes. Otherwise they’ll vibrate on each other and drive you nuts. Not to mention probably screw up the powder coat
Click to expand...
Yeah that would be bad on the bottom tube.
 
escapepilot

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
r3drckt said:
Just don’t screw into the bottom rail due to the radiator hoses. I’d also recommend screws that are long enough for a rubber washer between the panel and the tubes. Otherwise they’ll vibrate on each other and drive you nuts. Not to mention probably screw up the powder coat
Click to expand...
I like the rubber washer idea.
Was considering a foam tape between the tube and panel, but that rubber washer may be better.

I’ve read about the bottom tube warning. I don’t think it will need much help on the bottom, but a tab before and one after the ‘door’ bend would make it a little more secure.
 
k.rollin

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
I used M4 button head screws and well nuts. The wall thickness of the tubes is enough to hold threads for smaller fasteners (my tunnel is tapped for the same button head M4 screws).
 
Zoom Zoom

Zoom Zoom

Goblin Guru
Could a person weld a thin piece of angle iron on the tube so you could screw into that or have side of sheet metal sit down inside of angle iron lip to secure it.
You could make 1 long piece or a few 1 inch tabs or so.
Y’all probably thinking what a great idea for a Florida cracker. LOL :D
 
R

r3drckt

Goblin Guru
Zoom Zoom said:
Could a person weld a thin piece of angle iron on the tube so you could screw into that or have side of sheet metal sit down inside of angle iron lip to secure it.
You could make 1 long piece or a few 1 inch tabs or so.
Y’all probably thinking what a great idea for a Florida cracker. LOL :D
Click to expand...
Lol you can buy weld on tabs that are cut and bunt to go with the rounded tube so you have more surface area to weld together. Don’t buy them off Amazon, they’re wayyyyyy overpriced. 10 was like $50 or something. Don’t remember the place I bought them off hand, but someone else here recommended them to me. Bought 50 for the same price. They’re called “Trick Tabs” and you can Google that with “steel” or “weld on” and find everyone who sells them.
 
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escapepilot

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
I finished mounting the side panels and am pretty happy with the fit. It could use an extra tab or two but I’m not sure they would make much difference.

I dropped off the floor panels to get coated with Line-X. He’s spraying a truck tomorrow and will do them at the same time. I haven’t decided if I want the firewalls done or to just paint or power coat them.
 
escapepilot

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
Fabbed up some mounting tabs and had a friend from church weld them in. Planning on putting in some form of roof panel to keep the sun off my bald head. I'm leaning towards using tinted plexiglass but may just use aluminum. I left the tabs about 1/4 inch below the top of the tube hoping what ever I use will be slightly below the top when installed.

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You can see the Line-X coated floor in the background.

Dropped off the chassis to get powder coated last week. Hopefully, it will be ready to pick up Friday.
 
escapepilot

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
I installed the radiator hoses yesterday with only minor issues. I used the winch on my truck instead of buying a boat winch thinking my weight plus the Goblin weight should be enough to keep it from moving while the hoses were being pulled. I had to recruit some extra weight to help hold it but got them installed.

Who else has tortured themselves by opting to use a hand riveter instead of buying a pneumatic one? I don’t recommend it. Also, I had the floor panels sprayed with Line-X which made them thicker. No issues for the rivets but the 1/4-20 x 3/4” machine screws were too short with the added thickness of the Line-X. Picked up a couple of 1” long ones and all is good.

Not having wifi in the garage has slowed progress a little. I’ll watch a video, go complete a step or two and have to go back and watch the video again before moving on.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I installed the rivets with a hand riveter, as I owned it before this project. Spread it over a few days, it was easy. I mixed it up with some rivnuts on the tunnel and the rear firewall.
 
Rttoys

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
escapepilot said:
Not having wifi in the garage has slowed progress a little. I’ll watch a video, go complete a step or two and have to go back and watch the video again before moving on.
Click to expand...
I know the feeling. I live in the middle of nowhere. Cell signal/WiFi is next to nothing out here. Makes watching videos very difficult. Hell, just loading pictures here on the forum takes roughly 5minutes a pic.
 
escapepilot

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
So I haven't exactly been building my Goblin in the typical order of the videos. I've started construction w/o finishing stripping the donor. However, I did finally get around to getting the drivetrain pulled yesterday. The engine started and ran, but I've always been suspect of the transmission and after draining some fluid, I'm 100% sure I'll be using the back up one I purchased.

Drain Plug
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and yes...the trans fluid color was that dark. I've seen diesel engine oil look better. Add in the cracked end cover with a JB Weld patch that was still missing a huge hunk of metal and I'm very glad I bought the other tranny.

Also found another surprise - the control arms don't match. The passenger side was missing a fender, so I'm guessing this was a junkyard temporary replacement.
26654


Other than some random mismatched fasteners, every thing else seems ok.
 
Brett

Brett

Goblin Guru
The control arms are fairly inexpensive (when compared to the overall build). Since you have a miss match, I would just replace them. Given your donor, they should have a 19.5mm ball joint stud which are very common.

That drain plug looks bad. Given the other damage to the tranny, it makes sense to replace.
 
escapepilot

escapepilot

Goblin Guru
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