Escapepilot’s 06 SS/SC Ext Track Build - COMPLETED

[jamesm]

Yeah, they are super inexpensive. Like $10 more for the complete arm than replacing all the joints and bushings...

 

[Ross]

Nice find. Now that you are already there, add the Control Arm Bushing MOOG K201285 $67.56 and maybe some poly bushings.

 

[escapepilot]

When I finally started stripping the donor, I never dreamed that the seat belts would give me more problems than anything else. I broke two torx T50s including a new impact T50 on the upper seat belt bolt on the driver’s side and spun the retaining nut on the passenger side upper bolt. Fortunately, neither could resist the angle grinder with cut off wheel! Looks like the 5 point harness upgrade will happen sooner than planned.

 

[Rttoys]

There’s actually 2 t50; a normal one with pointed edges and a snap-on t50oe that have thick blunt edges, which is made for the seat belt bolts.

 

[Ross]

Most thread lock will soften with heat. Makes removing the bolt a lot easier.

 

[escapepilot]

Couple of questions.

1 Since I’m going to use the 5 point harnesses, do I need the seat belt reels or any part of the seat belt?

2 Never mind…rewatched the video and answered question #2.

 

[jamesm]

Since I’m going to use the 5 point harnesses, do I need the seat belt reels or any part of the seat belt?

If you are using the harnesses, you won't use any of the OEM seatbelt components. Depending on where you live and the local laws, you might hold onto them in case you need them to pass inspection.

 

[escapepilot]

Just about done stripping the donor. Now that new kits include a few more parts like braided stainless brake line, what is actually needed from the rear?

fuel pump (will replace with new)
Fuel filler neck
Hubs?
Harness to pump?

no evap needed here.

 

[Ark :D]

Those four items should be all you need.

Your donor is a SS; some people are able to sell the rear axle beam. I sold mine along with the rear brakes, seats, and plastic interior bits to a guy who was doing a SS conversion on his girlfriend's LS, for some unfathomable reason. (Cobalt people are weird)

 

[Towerdog]

I would just take the filler neck and the pump wire harness. For less than a $100 you can get new hubs.

 

[jayrolls]

Just about done stripping the donor. Now that new kits include a few more parts like braided stainless brake line, what is actually needed from the rear?

fuel pump (will replace with new)
Fuel filler neck
Hubs?
Harness to pump?

no evap needed here.

My filler neck was extremely rusted, found one on RockAuto. I would agree also with replacing the hubs since you are moving them to the front.

 

[escapepilot]

Looking at installing the steering rack and had a question. Since the tie rods get switched to the rear, would it be better to replace the tie rods before installing the rack or just wait?

 

[Brett]

I took the cobalt tie rods off when I was thinking about it so they did get left on the front. It doesnt matter when you do it, super easy to do, just dont forget to do it.

 

[escapepilot]

Good tip, Brett. I decided to remove them before I finished cleaning and touch up painting. I’m glad I did. It took a little persuasion to get the old ones off and doing it after installation would have been difficult.

 

[escapepilot]

Slowly making my way through the first Stage 1 videos and I have a few questions.

In the brake/clutch line installation vid, it says to use a 3/8 clamp up front to secure the lines to the cross bar (1/4 clamp if auto trans). I only received 1/4 clamps so is it ok to use one of those to secure both clutch and brake line? Does that clamp need to be secured into the bottom of the cross bar or can it go on top? Would putting it on top get in the way of anything like the inter cooler? (Guess who flipped his frame over before watching that vid.)

Which side of the tunnel should the brake and clutch lines be on? The intercooler lines go down the passenger side if I recall correctly.

I love the way the Doyle’s have done this kit. It’s pretty simple and they have pretty good videos that they are making better. Makes this build a lot easier.

 

[Rttoys]

I can’t remember exactly, because it’s been a while, but watch a few more videos. That will usually explain a few things you might be hung on.

 

[Rttoys]

Looking over some of my pics, the ic lines go on the dr side, wiring on the pass side, so clutch and brake should also be pass side to avoid heat.

 

[escapepilot]

Finally decided to tackle the wiring harness this week and after many many interruptions, I’m finally through the Thinning the Harness videos. However, I have two wire that look like I was going to remove but got interrupted. One is sorta cream with black strip and the other is brown with white stripe. They end in the dash plug terminals B7 and B8. I haven’t been able to determine what they were and if they are to be removed or saved.

Can anyone help?

 

[Rttoys]

Can’t help for that specific part, but when I did mine, I would label them and leave them. You can always remove them later or tape them off and leave them. I have a few wires that are taped off and marked, but go no where. I have green phasing tape taped around the main harness so if I ever needed to find the, they are under that phasing tape. Kind of a fail safe.

 

[jamesm]

Can you post a picture of the connector where they terminate? I might be able to find it in my big list.