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    Mountain View Arkansas Meetup Forum Thread

JS City Goblin - 2010 LS

George

Goblin Guru
What block is the Saab crank going in?
I am using the complete SAAB engine. Every part from the Cobalt bolts on to the SAAB engine. I used the SAAB the engine because I felt the castings and crankshift might be better materails.

Brad
 

Johvans

Well-Known Member
I have the same concern. It seems one of the most common failures on these transmissions is 3rd gear. I know fuel curves can be adjusted as mitigation. I found a website of a company a while back that custom builds these transmissions and also sells upgraded parts; they actually had pictures of a transmission apart and were pointing out all of the weak spots internally. Can’t remember the company’s name though.
http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/product_info.php/werksracing-f35-stage-transmissions-p-2057

These are the guys I have a feeling I will be using at some point.

John
 

Andy

Well-Known Member
They make some good stuff it looks like. But with a car that now weighs 1/2 of what it did before the trans should be able to handle more power. I worked on one car that went from 3500 lb in one config to 6000 lb in another contacting the trans company they were nervous and told us to take it easy on the trans car power was unchanged. Weight on the car has a lot to due with the forces that are developed in the trans, i.e. I have never seen a shaft shear before the case split. I have seen a diff case split and try to shove the ring thru the side.
 

George

Goblin Guru
I am installing a ZZP aluminum flywheel to my 2004 SAAB 9-3 crankshaft. It all has been balanced.
Brad
I AM WRONG THE COBALT DOES HAVE A DIFFERENT BOLT PATTERN. HAD PUT IN ON BUT NO WITH ALL THE BOLTS

SORRY FOR THE MISS INFORMATION

BRAD
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
The biggest enemy to the transmission is torque, not horsepower. That torque can either be developed in the form of weight, or very sticky tires. I’m running a V-6 sandrail with a modified 091 VW bus transmission that is barely rated for the torque output of my engine. The tires spin nicely out here in the desert. I refuse to take it to the dunes, because as soon as I hook up hard using paddle tires in the sand, that transmission will probably come apart.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
That Wang looks fantastic! Real carbon fiber?
Jesus I don’t know what picture you’re looking at...

Lol yes it’s carbon. Dry carbon so it’s really light. Very happy with it. Mount is taking quite a bit of work but I would order a different size mount spacing if I did it over again.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
The biggest enemy to the transmission is torque, not horsepower. That torque can either be developed in the form of weight, or very sticky tires. I’m running a V-6 sandrail with a modified 091 VW bus transmission that is barely rated for the torque output of my engine. The tires spin nicely out here in the desert. I refuse to take it to the dunes, because as soon as I hook up hard using paddle tires in the sand, that transmission will probably come apart.
That’s basically my thought. It’s kinda like the difference between drag and roll racing. Drop the hammer from a standstill and I bet it blows, hopefully it won’t one you’re moving.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Exhaust manifold and turbo mounted -done
Intercooler and air plumbing -done
Oil in and out -done
Water out -done

Only Water-in, Exhaust pipe, and o2 sensors left.

2DFDF6AA-ED8A-438B-AF37-50E70FD6FBF9.jpeg
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Did you already put the pistons in? Are you planning on upgrading the valve springs?
This is the Saab turbo. It’s really a practice run to make sure everything works and get it tuned on lower boost, this engine will remain stock except for injectors. The other engine is getting pistons and valves/valve springs for the Garrett turbo.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I’m not super excited about having the exhaust and intercooler so close but I think it’ll be fine. There’s a ton of airflow (obviously entirely different than in an enclosed engine bay) and I’m adding heat wrap and a heat shield to exhaust pipe. I’ll monitor IAT and adjust as needed.
4F6E79A1-5614-44CE-B5E6-D06EB49910BE.jpeg


Additionally I plan on making side scoops to direct air from around the rear struts to intercooler. I could add an additional top piece to further insulate it from the heat of the pipe.

Side note I was walking around checking random bolts for tightness and I found this big guy was starting to come loose. I’m thinking it would be nice to have a longer one and run a safety pin though the end of the bolt. Does anyone know the exact size of this upper knuckle/control arm bolt? Don’t really want to take it out if I don’t have to. I have about 3/4” before wheel clearance issues. I marked it and will keep watch.
75C1CC5C-9B39-4442-AB9D-DA09CD15B673.jpeg
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
What about using a castelatted nut with the existing bolt. Along with drilling a cotter key hole in the bolt.

Your build is looking nice. Can't wait to see a video with it running, creating some boost infested fun!
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Video says to use a 15/16" socket to tighten the nut so that should correspond to a 5/8" bolt size. Did you torque it down to 100 lb-ft? That seems pretty tight to work it's way loose like that.
 

KJP

Well-Known Member
That nut has nylon on the top right?
It's surprising it is working itself loose.
As stated above a drop of med loctite should add some extra security.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I'm thinking it may not have been all the way tightened at the alignment shop. Yes there is nylon but there's so few threads sticking out Im not sure theres much to lock on to.
 
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