KSLunsfo - Extended Track - '10 SS/TC

KSLunsfo

Active Member
Time for a quick update, this past Saturday I finally got around to 'starting' the tear down phase. Me and a couple friends got started around 10:30 to 11:00AM and wrapped up around 11:30PM. Of course it had to be nasty and rainy ALL day. Had to work with the car half way out of the garage unfortunately to have room to remove the powertrain, but we were far enough in that we weren't working in the rain. All pertinent bolts were bagged and tagged with pictures taken of electrical connectors and their mating connectors/modules.

This was just before work began:
That's frame 171 under the plastic that was wrapped around everything for delivery of the kit (glad I kept it).
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I intended to take this picture prior to starting disassembly. This was about 2 hours in, taking an hour or so for lunch.
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Then this was found rolling around in the car somewhere... JACKPOT!... NOT... I don't vape anyway!
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After a few 'short' hours:
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After completely stripping the engine bay and ~95% of the interior, the chassis was back out of the garage and the goblin frame was back in.
The dash is only a few minutes from being out. The shifter cables and ebrake are still in place and main chassis harness still needs to be fished the rest of the way out. Otherwise, teardown complete!
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Torchandregdoc

Well-Known Member
I have also been considering adding blown-in insulation into the attic since the garage was not already insulated. I have researched ways to insulate a garage door and may opt to do a temporary insulating job on it with a bunch of scrap bubble wrap from work, some cheap moving blankets I already had and some REALLY strong rare earth magnets I already had around, so basically for free. I've already experimented with this and it seems promising. The door will rarely be opened. Lastly, I've been back and forth on heater types, electric, propane or even natural gas since my hot water heater (natural gas) is located in the garage.
I put a NG furnace in my shop, best money I've spent. $650. A real pain to install, but worth every penny. I was heating with portable propane and last winter the furnace paid for itself and as an added bonus, I can set the wifi thermostat from anywhere in the world so when I roll in to work, its already warm.
 

KSLunsfo

Active Member
I put a NG furnace in my shop, best money I've spent. $650. A real pain to install, but worth every penny. I was heating with portable propane and last winter the furnace paid for itself and as an added bonus, I can set the wifi thermostat from anywhere in the world so when I roll in to work, its already warm.
I actually bought and have yet to install a wall mountable blue flame type NG heater from Northern tool. It's supposed to be rated for 750 sqft, which might be close to double my garage. I don't have wifi capability, that would be nice...
 

KSLunsfo

Active Member
Meanwhile... the cat uses my hood as a play place of sorts. May have to get another as he may not let me have it back...

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KSLunsfo

Active Member
Small update after a bit of time away from the project with holiday prep and activities.

Got the natural gas (Mr. Heater) installed and have used it a number of times now. Seems to work pretty well, gets the garage from upper 40's/ low 50's to well within 60's within an hour. But haven't used it during extremely cold outdoor temps yet. My temporary garage door insulation actually works reasonably well, especially considering it didn't cost me anything.

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A friend/ex co worker brought some supplies by and helped me build a work table that has already proven very helpful. A couple of lexan panels just crudely sitting on top for easy clean up.

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Finally got around to removing the dash and main chassis harness from the car.

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I recently removed the engine harness and split the engine and trans. Did some pressure washing on some things today. It was a huge improvement, but it all still needs more. I'm looking to buy a media blaster primarily for walnut media. Any suggestions for size/type I should consider. Harbor Freight has numerous options ranging from $40 - ~$140. I already have a 30 gallon air compressor that I believe should keep up reasonably well.

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KSLunsfo

Active Member
I first got one of the siphon feed guns and it was terrible. So I tried this little one and it’s better, but you literally have to fill it up every 5 minutes of use. But I did my whole engine with it in an afternoon. https://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopper-gravity-feed-spot-blaster-gun-95793.html
I haven't thought about a handheld unit, but perhaps that's the best option here... I was considering one of these:

But maybe those would be overkill. At least I would only have to fill it once or until I go through 20/40 lbs of media, and supposed to be much better than the siphon type from my understanding.
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
This one worked pretty well for me and the price is right. I have a 30 gallon compressor. I would have to take a break every 20 minutes or so to let the compressor catch up a bit.


It makes a fantastic mess. Have fun and wear a face shield and goggles.
 

KSLunsfo

Active Member
This one worked pretty well for me and the price is right. I have a 30 gallon compressor. I would have to take a break every 20 minutes or so to let the compressor catch up a bit.

I was actually thinking about that one too, and $30 is pretty darn cheap. I wish I could go into harbor freight and try all of them. Definitely plan on wearing a full face mask, I imagine my face would be raw in no time...
 

KSLunsfo

Active Member
So I've just dropped the tank, and removed the filler neck and fuel pump. Last thing is to remove the emergency brake assembly, unsure how difficult that will be as I haven't seen it documented yet.

While I have the rear end up I'm wondering, is it only the hubs and rubber brake lines that are to be saved from the rear end? I was planning on buying new brake lines anyway and will probably buy new hubs. This will make it easier for me to move the shell around as well as getting rid of it. I know a guy who's interested in it that will bring a couple wheels to throw on the rear (keeping the SS wheels for now). Am I missing anything that needs to be saved from the rear end?

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Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
The new hubs usually don't come with the nuts. You will need to source eight of them if you don't remove them from the donor.
 

KSLunsfo

Active Member
The new hubs usually don't come with the nuts. You will need to source eight of them if you don't remove them from the donor.
Good point! Any idea off hand what thread they are? Mcmaster carr should make short work of some new flanged nuts.

Don’t fool with reusing brake lines. Get the braided hose set so much nicer and not much $$
I absolutely agree. I did pull off the brake line retaining clips though, as I do believe those will be used. They're kind of crusty looking though...
 

RouteAbel

Well-Known Member
I was actually thinking about that one too, and $30 is pretty darn cheap. I wish I could go into harbor freight and try all of them. Definitely plan on wearing a full face mask, I imagine my face would be raw in no time...
Don't forget the Goggles. I was using just a face shield at first and got Walnut shell in my eye.
 

Karter2026

Well-Known Member
I absolutely agree. I did pull off the brake line retaining clips though, as I do believe those will be used. They're kind of crusty looking though...
Rock auto sell new ones. in 10 pack. Chad bought one and then he sold the rest of what he didn't use for next to nothing.
 

KSLunsfo

Active Member
Just about to finish taking the steering column apart and had a thought... I recall someone mentioning in a video (don't recall who) that they retained the clock spring as a future "just in case". Being that I've never dealt with aftermarket wheels, hub adapters etc... if I ever want a wheel with multiple switches/buttons should I retain this as well or are there aftermarket options for this? Are there hub adapters for instance that has this built in?
 

JSATX

Well-Known Member
Just about to finish taking the steering column apart and had a thought... I recall someone mentioning in a video (don't recall who) that they retained the clock spring as a future "just in case". Being that I've never dealt with aftermarket wheels, hub adapters etc... if I ever want a wheel with multiple switches/buttons should I retain this as well or are there aftermarket options for this? Are there hub adapters for instance that has this built in?
Ross kept the cobalt steering hub.

most aftermarket quick disconnects have pass though contacts but they would still require wires that wrap around the shaft.
 

KSLunsfo

Active Member
most aftermarket quick disconnects have pass though contacts but they would still require wires that wrap around the shaft.
So, it sounds like you're saying I should definitely retain the clock spring assembly? Sorry, I'm rather experienced in automotive things in general, but definitely a novice in this particular realm...

This doesn't mean I would need to keep the tilt assembly as well does it?
 

Ross

Well-Known Member
You probably can get the clockspring to work with the DF mounts, with a bit of fabrication. I did it with the Cobalt tilt steering, but didn't try with the DF parts. The clockspring sits behind the steering wheel, and has about 10 wires that run in and out of it. It is encased in a plastic ring, with an electrical connector on each side. I had to bend the top connector to clear the steering wheel.
 

KSLunsfo

Active Member
You probably can get the clockspring to work with the DF mounts, with a bit of fabrication. I did it with the Cobalt tilt steering, but didn't try with the DF parts. The clockspring sits behind the steering wheel, and has about 10 wires that run in and out of it. It is encased in a plastic ring, with an electrical connector on each side. I had to bend the top connector to clear the steering wheel.
Thanks, good to know that retaining the tilt column is an option anyway. I still have time to try and figure this out, but wanted to get an idea before separating the entire steering column assembly.
 
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