KSLunsfo - Extended Track - '10 SS/TC

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
So, things have been a bit slow on the car front for any number of reasons.

Jumping ahead to a question so it's not buried in a long post:
For the LNF guys that have, how have you removed this SS braided line? I see it's a push lock line just like a fuel line. However, with the valve cover itself in the way how are you ever expected to remove it without destructive means?? Maybe I'm missing something.

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I've continued cleanup of parts a bit here and there. This includes going over the entire frame with red scotch brite as I had a decent bit of rust developing, I believe much of this is attributed to delivery on a rainy weekend. This was a rather time consuming task in itself.

I have an old friend who's a fabricator that's going to help me with a few small welding jobs on the frame. At the moment I'm just planning on welding in square M4 nuts for the tunnel cover and a series of tabs for screwing on the side panels with M6 screws and fender washers as I want the panels to be easily removable and want to minimize holes added to the tube frame itself. I haven't determined any other welding I know for a fact that I plan to do.

I still haven't refined or arranged a plan for coating the frame, but I'm starting to lean more towards powder coating due to lack of resources to paint or coat the frame myself. The logistics of doing it properly myself don't appear to be panning out. I've had POR15 in mind if I was going to tackle the coating on my own.

I've also been gradually stripping down the engine in order to walnut blast. I'm taking pictures along the way to make reassembly easier and making a list of components I need to buy. I know I will be performing the timing service that gets mentioned here frequently, including the new bolt that tends to shear off (if I'm remembering the failure mode correctly).

Lastly I've 'built' a blast booth of sorts using some clear plastic to help contain the media and dust. I have a window screen that I'm using to sift the material before loading it back into the blaster. I'm using a fine walnut media for primarily blasting the engine, trans etc. I also plan on trying this on the frame to see if I can get a fine yet uniform texture on the frame, though it may require a more aggressive media to get any results on steel. I'm expecting/hoping the time spent prepping the frame will save me on the coating end. A large portion of the work is in the pre coating prep depending on the coater and how thorough they are. They should just have to do a final clean prior to coating ideally.

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Torchandregdoc

Well-Known Member
So, things have been a bit slow on the car front for any number of reasons.

Jumping ahead to a question so it's not buried in a long post:
For the LNF guys that have, how have you removed this SS braided line? I see it's a push lock line just like a e cover itself in the way how are you ever expected to remove it without destructive means?? Maybe I'm missing something.


View attachment 11604
I just pryed mine off and then learned how they are built. You can get them off with 3 oring pics. 4 would be better. There is a clip inside that is replaceable. I bought them on Amazon.
 

Attachments

OptimizePrime

Well-Known Member
@KSLunsfo To give you an idea of what I did, I pulled this line off the turbo (and damaged it, so there was no going back) and valve cover and tapped the valve cover with a brass fitting to barb. I then ran the barb to a catch-can and then to the inlet pipe on the turbo. I wrapped the hose running to the turbo in heater hose heat shield from my donor.
 
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Torchandregdoc

Well-Known Member
I should have been a little more concise in the oring pick removal method. Each of the tangs are a spring built like a ramp. When you put the hose on the valve cover, the barb pushes the retainer open as the tangs ramp wider. Once it passes the barb, all for tangs spring closed again locking it in place. With 4 oring picks, and 4 hands, you can push out on the ramps and the hose will pull past the barb on the valve cover fitting. A bit confusing to discribe with written word. If I get some time, I may be able to upload a video.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
@KSLunsfo To give you an idea of what I did, I pulled this line off the turbo (and damaged it, so there was no going back) and valve cover and tapped the valve cover with a brass fitting to barb. I then ran the barb to a catch-can and then to the inlet pipe on the turbo. I wrapped the hose running to the turbo in heater hose heat shield from my donor.
That's pretty much exactly what I may end up doing. Though it would be cool if I could utilize the concept and buy pre made correct length push lock lines to connect it all, but likely more trouble than it's worth. Thanks to direct injection, a catch can is essentially a must.
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
I should have been a little more concise in the oring pick removal method. Each of the tangs are a spring built like a ramp. When you put the hose on the valve cover, the barb pushes the retainer open as the tangs ramp wider. Once it passes the barb, all for tangs spring closed again locking it in place. With 4 oring picks, and 4 hands, you can push out on the ramps and the hose will pull past the barb on the valve cover fitting. A bit confusing to discribe with written word. If I get some time, I may be able to upload a video.
Or maybe get the Disconnect Tool
 

JBINTX

Well-Known Member
OK. I am officially stuck here too. I do have the right size tool. However, there is not enough room to slip it in and engage it properly.
There has to be a way to remove it without damaging the connection. Right?

IMG_7491.jpg
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
That's exactly why this came up for me, the traditional tool doesn't work here. I can see how Torch's approach works with the right amount of patience and probably a second set of hands.
 

JBINTX

Well-Known Member
My other end maybe could be detached. It is really tight as well. Was not an issue till I decided to replace the valve cover gasket. So, I will just leave it attached and let it dangle the valve cover and keep it from getting lost...... :)
 

OptimizePrime

Well-Known Member
I had started considering that too, wondering how much trouble the line would be attached if I powder coat the valve cover.
Under the stainless braids it's rubber :confused: BUT with powder it's only in the oven for like 20min at 400 which the braids may be able to fend off from completely melting the rubber.... have a plan B ready but might be worth a shot.
 

JBINTX

Well-Known Member
Inquire with the powder coater if they have done something like that. I bet they will have a good idea if it will work. Or not.
The replaceable little retainer tangs are cheap. If I really needed to remove it, I would just muscle it off and plan on replacing the little keeper for a few bucks.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Inquire with the powder coater if they have done something like that. I bet they will have a good idea if it will work. Or not.
The replaceable little retainer tangs are cheap. If I really needed to remove it, I would just muscle it off and plan on replacing the little keeper for a few bucks.
Yeah, not a bad idea. Heck, maybe they're intended to be torn off since the keeper is replaceable...
 
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