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Kyle's Street Goblin #228- 07 SS/SC Donor

Kyle

Member
Introduction
Hey guys! My name is Kyle Stevens. I'm from Southern Utah and it's a pleasure to be part of the community. Last October I hooked up the Harbor Freight flat bed to the Ford Escape and headed down to Texas to pick up my order. I've stayed reletively quiet on the forums, but I've made quite a bit of progress with the help of some private advice from people/friends like Captain Frank, Canyon B. and Ross.

The Build
This has been a pretty big undertaking for me as my first serious car project. I use to have a VW sandrail I got running a few years back with some carb cleaning and valve adjustments but nothing like this. I'm really "green" to all of this, so bear with me. Hell, I didn't even know the difference between a radiator and an intercooler. I still don't know what the EVAP system does; I just know I got rid of it. :p As far as the wiring and electronics of everything, I can read a wiring diagram well enough, but I definitely made some mistakes along the way that I just couldn't seem to track down. My instrument cluster is behaving strangely and my VATS light is on and won't clear by the traditional methods. I purchased an HP Tuner and credits to disable VATS, so now I can start the vehicle by arcing the starter relay. It idles great, and the throttle response is great. The key won't start the vehicle (it will shut it off), so I'll have to do some more digging there or bypass whatever is stopping it from reaching the relay. The guages on the instrument cluster still aren't working, but I'm pretty sure the obd2 reader is showing values for the tachometer and speedometer (I'll verify this later tonight).

Anyways... That pretty much gets you guys up to speed on the build! Advice and criticism on the car would be much appreciated and I look forward to chatting!

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Welcome Kyle. Looks like you are very far into your build. That is a really sharp looking blue on the frame - powder coating?
Where are you at in Southern Utah?
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Nice area in Cedar City. Plenty of fun roads to drive once you're done building. BTW, benJY is located in St. George, he is the closest Goblin builder to you.
 

Kyle

Member
A meet up would be a lot of fun. Hopefully I can get the details on mine worked out by the time it starts warming up. If it's Goblin weather and I don't have a rolling chassis... I'll be cursing myself. ;)
 

Anks329

Well-Known Member
My instrument cluster is behaving strangely and my VATS light is on and won't clear by the traditional methods. I purchased an HP Tuner and credits to disable VATS, so now I can start the vehicle by arcing the starter relay. It idles great, and the throttle response is great. The key won't start the vehicle (it will shut it off), so I'll have to do some more digging there or bypass whatever is stopping it from reaching the relay. The guages on the instrument cluster still aren't working, but I'm pretty sure the obd2 reader is showing values for the tachometer and speedometer (I'll verify this later tonight).
I had a similar-ish issue with my build, especially with gauges on the instrument panel not working, and the VATS light staying on. I unplugged the ignition lock cylinder - take a look at this for pictures: http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/anks329-extended-city-07-ls-190-registered.1536/post-43993

Mine's an automatic, and you have an SS/SC so might not be the same, but maybe something in that area is causing a similar problem for you?
 

Kyle

Member
I had a similar-ish issue with my build, especially with gauges on the instrument panel not working, and the VATS light staying on
I don't think mine has that connector unless you mean it sits inside the key housing. In that case I would have more investigating to do...
 

Kyle

Member
Morning guys. I've got a handful of questions I'm hoping to get cleared up.
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1. This pair of connectors: I'm pretty sure the blue goes to the bypass valve solenoid. As for the red one, it is pretty unique shape, but I can't seem to find a place for it. They are part of the engine harness, and they branch off the line from the big purple connector under the fuse box. (sorry I can't remember the wire colors. I'll check later today if no one recognizes them)

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2. This connector: it sits next to where the shifting linkage hooks up it has 4 prongs.

3. Ambient air temp sensor: is there a recommendation location for it? Is it important?

4. Brake fluid reservoir connection/sensor: Does this connection get used? I have the male end of the connector, but it isn't wired into my harness.

Thank you!
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
3. Ambient air sensor can go anywhere that is not in heated air, like behind the radiator or inside the engine bay.

4. Are you not using the Cobalt reservoir? If not, tie the two wires together to simulate the reservoir sensor with a full tank.
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Top black plug should be your coolant tank.
Bottom 4 pin is the second O2 sensor.
Orange... Still thinking.. Evap thingy. Not needed
 
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Kyle

Member
Top black plug should be your coolant tank.
There is an identical black plug that goes with the fuel pump and ambient air bundle. I thought that one was for the coolant tank. I'll check the wire coloring to verify later.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
I think this may be them.
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Leave the red one unplugged. It is for emissions.
The other, blue, black, gray, controls your supercharger, you will need it.
 

Towerdog

Goblin Guru
Lonny is correct (of course) I did not unplug the black one on the SC but it is a match for the coolant tank that is in the main harness.
 

Kyle

Member
Was my kit supposed to come with this little boost guage bracket or is that something I make myself?
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