LSJ Intercooler Pump Direction

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I'm going to piggyback with you, since I have a similar, but different problem. My IC pump doesn't run either. I checked the plug and got no voltage. Checked the 15A fuse and its not blown, but I don't have voltage on either side of the fuse either. Suggestions on what to check next?
The wiring diagrams?
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
I'm going to piggyback with you, since I have a similar, but different problem. My IC pump doesn't run either. I checked the plug and got no voltage. Checked the 15A fuse and its not blown, but I don't have voltage on either side of the fuse either. Suggestions on what to check next?
Is the engine on, or have you commanded the pump to run in HPT? Otherwise the pump doesn't run.
 

snirtman

Well-Known Member
Is the engine on, or have you commanded the pump to run in HPT? Otherwise the pump doesn't run.
I've only checked it with key off and key on, not with engine running. I read somewhere else on the forum that the pump should run with just key on - is that right? FWIW, I don't have HPT ... yet.
 

snirtman

Well-Known Member
Mine doesn't.
Ok, just checked again, this time with engine running. I've got 14v on both sides of the fuse, but I see no fluid moving through the fill T that's connected to the pump output, so it looks like either the pump and/or wiring between fuse and pump is bad. Looks like I'll have to dig a little deeper. Next time I have the car in the air I'll check to see if I have voltage at the pump connector.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
It can be hard to see fluid moving. I have clear braided silicone hose on my Camaro SC and can't see it moving through it. If yo can put your hand on the pump, you should be able to feel it vibrate.
 

devianteng

Well-Known Member
FYI, there is a relay to the left of the IC pump fuse (at least on my 07 SS/SC) that you can pull, then jump diagonally to power the pump on when the car is off. I have a new ZZP IC pump, but I can hear it run when I just the relay pins.

As far as plumbing, I basically did the defacto setup for a dual pass endplate, except I replaced the stock filler neck with a Tee and plumbed that to a 1 liter reservoir tank.
heat-exchanger-plumbing-diagram.png
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
Is the engine on, or have you commanded the pump to run in HPT? Otherwise the pump doesn't run.
Mine only starts flowing with the engine running. Is there a way to command it on in HP Tuners to be key on running?
 

baustin

Well-Known Member
Mine only starts flowing with the engine running. Is there a way to command it on in HP Tuners to be key on running?
Yes, there is a time value that sets the delay after key goes to the 'on' position to start the pump running. I think mine was defaulted to 10 seconds after key on which made it seems like it only turned on after the engine was running. During tuning, I set mine to 0 second delay. Now if I turn my key to 'on' my pump turns on regardless of if I then try to start the engine. You can test it by just turning the key to 'on' without starting the engine and wait 10-15 seconds to see if the pump starts running, it's not silent but gets hidden by the engine noise normally.
 

jaredthenav

Well-Known Member
I'm going to piggy back on this thread...I discovered yesterday that the fuse for my intercooler pump (stock replacement when I built the Goblin, from J Reiland on Ebay) was blown. I replaced it, and it immediately also blew. I double checked the plug, and the polarity is not reversed, I got sustained 12V, so I doubt the problem is in the wiring. Next step will be to pull the motor and bench test, but before I pull it (and drain all the coolant), figured I'd see if anyone else has hit this issue or if you can think of any other solution. Seems to me like the pump motor is bad...
Turns out the problem was the relay. I went ahead and used the excuse to get a new zzp high volume pump, so win win. Plus I used the AC relay right next to it (exact same part number) and that did the trick. So, be sure to check the relay and the fuse!
 
Top