Correct LAP/F23 swaped to LSJ/F23. Gearbox stays the same.
Mikes Extended, Full Frame Goblin - 2009 Cobalt LS with 135k donor
- Thread starter mike_sno
- Start date
I am decently happy with the progress. Besides family, I removed the tunnel cap, removed the old wiring harness, put the new harness in.
Question regarding the fuel pump and fuel tank connection. I have a 4 pin connector for the fuel pump. https://charm.li/Chevrolet/2007/Cobalt L4-2.0L SC/Repair and Diagnosis/Diagrams/Connector Views/Fuel Pump/ This plug as the supply voltage and ground for the fuel pump and the fuel level signal and ground.
Now, in the wiring diagram is another sensor for the fuel tank. Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor FTP. I don't have this sensor at my fuel tank. Do I need that?
Question regarding the fuel pump and fuel tank connection. I have a 4 pin connector for the fuel pump. https://charm.li/Chevrolet/2007/Cobalt L4-2.0L SC/Repair and Diagnosis/Diagrams/Connector Views/Fuel Pump/ This plug as the supply voltage and ground for the fuel pump and the fuel level signal and ground.
Now, in the wiring diagram is another sensor for the fuel tank. Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor FTP. I don't have this sensor at my fuel tank. Do I need that?
Rauq
Goblin Guru
Can you elaborate what the concern is, just to refresh my memory? I vaguely recall pulling the oil cooler for some order of operations but I'm pretty sure there were no modifications required to make everything go together.
I had to pull the trans after a couple drives because my new OEM slave cylinder had a torn input shaft seal, and I don't remember having to do anything with the oil cooler on the reinstall.
I had to pull the trans after a couple drives because my new OEM slave cylinder had a torn input shaft seal, and I don't remember having to do anything with the oil cooler on the reinstall.
Yes, please see at the picture. The blue lines need to be on top of each other. The left side (1) is already in position, the right side (2) is still a bit to low and will not move any higher due to contact of the screw for the oil cooler and the oil cooler itself.
I used a file and worked a bit on the gearbox housing, that made it fit.
Did you removed the LAP Temperature sensor from the LAP Thermostat housing or leave it in and just not connect it. If you removed it, how did you seal the sensor?
The day came where I turned the key.... and nothing happened 
Before I did that, I connected the HP Tuner and read out the DTC codes. Missed the gas pedal connection and the coolant level switch. Other than that it looked good. In HP Tuners I switched the Fuel pump on. Wanted to prime the fuel system, but could not hear anything. I looked in the wiring diagram and checked the fuse of the fuel pump. It says in the diagramm, that the fuse is on one side hot at all times. I guess that means it comes directly from the battery. But for me, neither side of the fuse has voltage. I removed the fuse and measured at the pins directly.... nothing. Is there something else I can do?
Tried to crank the engine and even that did not work at all. No crank. Have not yet measured the voltage on the starter. The starter works, I tested it when the engine was out.
Problems problems problems....
Looking for any hints! Below are the DTC codes.
The Control instrument says engine power reduced AND the little symbol down right with the lock and the car is illuminated. Now I don't recall if that was standard with the other car as well. I kept the Key and TPMS module from the old car. Do I need to relearn the key or so?
Before I did that, I connected the HP Tuner and read out the DTC codes. Missed the gas pedal connection and the coolant level switch. Other than that it looked good. In HP Tuners I switched the Fuel pump on. Wanted to prime the fuel system, but could not hear anything. I looked in the wiring diagram and checked the fuse of the fuel pump. It says in the diagramm, that the fuse is on one side hot at all times. I guess that means it comes directly from the battery. But for me, neither side of the fuse has voltage. I removed the fuse and measured at the pins directly.... nothing. Is there something else I can do?
Tried to crank the engine and even that did not work at all. No crank. Have not yet measured the voltage on the starter. The starter works, I tested it when the engine was out.
Problems problems problems....
Looking for any hints! Below are the DTC codes.
The Control instrument says engine power reduced AND the little symbol down right with the lock and the car is illuminated. Now I don't recall if that was standard with the other car as well. I kept the Key and TPMS module from the old car. Do I need to relearn the key or so?
The later model diagrams have the fuel pump fuse after the fuel pump relay. I think the older ones are the same. So you are probably not getting power to the signal side of the fuel pump relay. Recheck now that you have the key working. I think one of the things the security cuts is the fuel pump.
Ok, fuel pump is working. This is unbelievable. I heard the relay switching, but the fuel pump was not working. Switched the relay with the Rear defroster and same thing. Then I pulled the relay a bit that i could measure on the pins, found the coil working as expected but the switch itself did not do anything. Jumped the relay with a cable and the fuel pump worked. 2 relays damaged? Sure thing, I pulled a relay from the LAP fusebox and it works as expected.
The engine is now starting, but it cranks up, starts and dies immediately. If I knew anything about engines, it feels like, the starting cycle is working fine, the engine goes up to about 1600 rpm and is going down to idle. But idle is somehow not correct and the engine dies.
The engine is now starting, but it cranks up, starts and dies immediately. If I knew anything about engines, it feels like, the starting cycle is working fine, the engine goes up to about 1600 rpm and is going down to idle. But idle is somehow not correct and the engine dies.
This are the current error codes. I took the EVAP system out, same for the AC. That tells me the first 4 errors can be ignored or do I have to change something regarding the EVAP system?
The accelerator pedal reading in HP Tuners does not change. I made my own adapter, I wonder if there is something wrong?
The accelerator pedal reading in HP Tuners does not change. I made my own adapter, I wonder if there is something wrong?
Yeah, I looked again at my self made adapter. I measured the voltage and one potentiometer had no voltage. The 5V supply pin was not seated correctly did not had a good connection. I also checked HP Tuners again and added everything which had accelerator pedal to the monitor list.
What I can tell with my voltage meter and the wiring diagram, it works as its supposed to be. I took a video of the HP Tuner reading. The pedal is untouched, then I push it full down, release it completely and push it again full down. Followed by starting the engine.
The engine is now not starting anymore. If I disconnect the accelerator pedal the engine starts, but dies immediately.
Can anyone confirm that this is correct?
What I can tell with my voltage meter and the wiring diagram, it works as its supposed to be. I took a video of the HP Tuner reading. The pedal is untouched, then I push it full down, release it completely and push it again full down. Followed by starting the engine.
The engine is now not starting anymore. If I disconnect the accelerator pedal the engine starts, but dies immediately.
Can anyone confirm that this is correct?
That‘s it for tonight. I am charging the battery, I believe I sill have some air in the system. The engine was never running longer than 6 or 7 seconds, but it got hot already and I am worried that there is still to much air in the system. Since I can confirm that the engine is running, I will take it out again and change the clutch. Then install all the other parts again and will then later on deal with the idle issues I am having currently.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
You removed the evap system? Could you have left a Vac connection open?