ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
Half finished system? Take a pic and caption the position/next step. Can't hurt. Too many irons in the fire and someone always gets burned.
Pisco's extended city goblin #220 (2009 SS/TC donor)
- Thread starter pisco
- Start date
SmsDetroit
Goblin Guru
One thing I did was a nut and bolt check everything before my first drive. I was so afraid I forgot to tighten something. I just wanted make sure was done right.
pisco
Well-Known Member
This is solid advice! @everyone should heed, life is on the line and it isn't necessarily yours.
Rttoys
Goblin Guru
I started a critical check list at one time. Here it is, but I can’t remember if it’s everything.
Goblin first drive checklist-
Check for leaks
Check all fluid levels (oil, trans, engine coolant, intercooler coolant, brakes, fuel)
Secure any loose wires
Battery secured
Pedal box assembly
Brake master cylinder
Brake fittings for leaks and tightness
Brake caliper and mounting bracket tightness
Steering rack tightness
Steering column tightness and clearance at bulkhead
Steering wheel secured
Front tie rods- look for cotter pins
Ft control arm bolt tightness
Secured radiator and intercooler radiator
Secured seat
Secured seatbelts
Shifter assembly and tunnel cap secured
Rear tie rods- look for cotter pins
Rear tie rod mount assembly tightness
Rear control arm bolt tightness
Rear strut mounting tightness
Subframe mounts tightness
Motor mount tightness
Exhaust secured and tight
Gas tank secured
Lug nut tightness
Tire pressure
Tips:
Mark all nuts and bolts with marker, paint pen, chalk or other identifying means after tightening. This will ensure you have checked it and marked it as tight. Make a line from nut/bolt to the hard surface they are attached to so if that mark moves over time, you will know something has come loose.
Writing the torque value next to the nut/bolt will save you time later when you recheck them.
Rechecking everything after the first few drives is recommended. It is a good idea to check everything again every few hundred miles, too.
Having someone else look over and check everything is recommended. A new set of eyes can see things you may have missed.
It is recommended that the alignment is done before driving.
Happy Goblining
Goblin first drive checklist-
Check for leaks
Check all fluid levels (oil, trans, engine coolant, intercooler coolant, brakes, fuel)
Secure any loose wires
Battery secured
Pedal box assembly
Brake master cylinder
Brake fittings for leaks and tightness
Brake caliper and mounting bracket tightness
Steering rack tightness
Steering column tightness and clearance at bulkhead
Steering wheel secured
Front tie rods- look for cotter pins
Ft control arm bolt tightness
Secured radiator and intercooler radiator
Secured seat
Secured seatbelts
Shifter assembly and tunnel cap secured
Rear tie rods- look for cotter pins
Rear tie rod mount assembly tightness
Rear control arm bolt tightness
Rear strut mounting tightness
Subframe mounts tightness
Motor mount tightness
Exhaust secured and tight
Gas tank secured
Lug nut tightness
Tire pressure
Tips:
Mark all nuts and bolts with marker, paint pen, chalk or other identifying means after tightening. This will ensure you have checked it and marked it as tight. Make a line from nut/bolt to the hard surface they are attached to so if that mark moves over time, you will know something has come loose.
Writing the torque value next to the nut/bolt will save you time later when you recheck them.
Rechecking everything after the first few drives is recommended. It is a good idea to check everything again every few hundred miles, too.
Having someone else look over and check everything is recommended. A new set of eyes can see things you may have missed.
It is recommended that the alignment is done before driving.
Happy Goblining
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pisco
Well-Known Member
I want an honest opinion as I'm waffling on this one.
I picked up an ethanol content monitor and have to decide how to install it.
I'm debating between adding a T fitting at the connection to the high pressure fuel pump and drain back to the tank with a restrictive orifice to limit flow and allow pressure to build, or a separate loop with an independent pump and its own draw straw welded into the tank.
Option 1 seems more simple but I may be overlooking something
anybody care to chime in with an opinion?
Either way I need to do this sooner than later as I don't want to weld on the tank after fuel has been in it.
I picked up an ethanol content monitor and have to decide how to install it.
I'm debating between adding a T fitting at the connection to the high pressure fuel pump and drain back to the tank with a restrictive orifice to limit flow and allow pressure to build, or a separate loop with an independent pump and its own draw straw welded into the tank.
Option 1 seems more simple but I may be overlooking something
anybody care to chime in with an opinion?
Either way I need to do this sooner than later as I don't want to weld on the tank after fuel has been in it.
Why would you not simply put it inline? Is that not how GM did it on flex fuel vehicles that actually used a sensor?
I don't know that there is a way to tune an E69 ECM for truly being flex fuel, at least with HPT. Have you figured out a way or just going to run different tunes?
I don't know that there is a way to tune an E69 ECM for truly being flex fuel, at least with HPT. Have you figured out a way or just going to run different tunes?
pisco
Well-Known Member
Yeah the idea was just a dash indication of concentration rather than testing a sample every time I fill up but it will also serve as an indication of water in fuel and give me accurate numbers to use for tuning.
I don't know why I didn't think to just put it in line with the fuel delivery.. I want to put it on the high pressure side to watch temp before injection but no way it can handle it.
pisco
Well-Known Member
I guess I wasn't entirely clear with my initial post. I wasn't sure the sensor could take injection pump pressure, I had looked up installation and inline on the return side or supply for carbureted systems. I don't want a catastrophic failure/fuel leak especially 16" behind my head so I tried to look up pressure ratings and couldn't find any, E-mailed Innovative Motorsport and got a response today. They also don't know pressure ratings, they use a continental oe part and ratings are not publicly available.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
Gotta love it when they sell parts that they don't know specs on. Or when you have to cross reference websites to get 1 complete listing.
How big is it? Unno
Whats this or that? Unno
How high is this rated for? Unno
pisco
Well-Known Member
I was just curious what the temp is after running through the HPFP, and if that had a noticeable effect on power.
I'm worried it won't handle the pressure between the 2 fuel pumps (60PSI from what I can find) in the directions it says to install in the fuel return line. Since we don't have one I wanted to make one without compromising the current fueling setup. High pressure side is not getting cut into, it would be far easier to attach a Thermocouple or RTD to the fuel rail.
Traé
Goblin Guru
Force them down and to the passenger side of the engine, they kind of just hangout there against the subframe. I don’t think I zip tied anything but can check tomorrow when I am home and send you some pictures.
*EDIT*
I did zip tie them to the subframe and ran them in front of the toe rack.
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comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
pisco
Well-Known Member
went for 1st start today and got a no crank starting troubleshooting that now
EDIT: Anybody have any good places to start?
so far I've verified the the starter relay has 30A12v supply and when jumpered the starter turns over so no request to crank.
I switched the clutch and brake wires and tried every combination of off/on there.
All data doesn't have much on no start for the cobalt, I'm still searching online other places but if there is already a list here somewhere the forum search didn't pull up for me it would be helpful.
This forum has changed so much since I started my build an I never get what I expect from the search function.
EDIT: Anybody have any good places to start?
so far I've verified the the starter relay has 30A12v supply and when jumpered the starter turns over so no request to crank.
I switched the clutch and brake wires and tried every combination of off/on there.
All data doesn't have much on no start for the cobalt, I'm still searching online other places but if there is already a list here somewhere the forum search didn't pull up for me it would be helpful.
This forum has changed so much since I started my build an I never get what I expect from the search function.
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Traé
Goblin Guru
Are you seeing normal start up functions? Fuel pump priming, throttle body reacting to pedal, information on the dash? I have an 06’ SS so will probably be different than yours, but there was a connector I did not plug in. It caused my dash to have a power steering message and it would not crank even though the starter could be jumped to crank.