PyroGuy's '08 SS/TC Build - #208 - REGIRSTERED!

PyroGuy923

PyroGuy923

Well-Known Member
Lonny said:
I can send you some extensions. But for now, you can maximize the length of everything and get it diving.
The first adjustments will need to be made with the shifter off of the tunnel.
Instructions here.
dfkitcar.com

Manual shifter installation and adjustment

Step one Install your tunnel cover. Step two Install your shifter cable bracket Step three Identify one of the cables on both ends with a sharpie mark or piece of tape. Route your two shifter cables along the tunnel and through the opening in the firewall. The cables need to be positioned...
dfkitcar.com dfkitcar.com
Until you get the extensions you will need to install the rod ends onto the shifter cables only about three turns. And the big adjustment nuts on the shifter cables will need to be bottomed out. This makes the cables think they are longer. This should get the bell cranks close enough to vertical that it will shift.
Send a message to support@dfkitcar tomorrow and we will get a set of extensions sent your way.
Click to expand...
Thanks Lonny. I've been in contact with Kim about my seats and already sent a message about this.
 
PyroGuy923

PyroGuy923

Well-Known Member
Well today didn't go as planned but did make some progress.

Recently the car started to stall when running and occassionally wouldn't start. After doing some digging there was an igition switch recal on the Cobalts. I order a new switch with the intention to swap it out and learn the new key but boy was I wrong. I swapped the ignition switch and the car won't crank even after going through the relearn process multiple times. There is no security lock on the gauge which is odd.

Anywho. Got the headlights (Auxito H4 6500 LED Headlights), mirrors, and trailer light, I mean 3rd brake light, and license plate light all wired in.




 
Sparvy

Sparvy

Active Member
PyroGuy923 said:
Well today didn't go as planned but did make some progress.

Recently the car started to stall when running and occassionally wouldn't start. After doing some digging there was an igition switch recal on the Cobalts. I order a new switch with the intention to swap it out and learn the new key but boy was I wrong. I swapped the ignition switch and the car won't crank even after going through the relearn process multiple times. There is no security lock on the gauge which is odd.

Anywho. Got the headlights (Auxito H4 6500 LED Headlights), mirrors, and trailer light, I mean 3rd brake light, and license plate light all wired in.




Click to expand...
What 3d brake light did you use if you don't mind sharing?
 
PyroGuy923

PyroGuy923

Well-Known Member
Sparvy said:
What 3d brake light did you use if you don't mind sharing?
Click to expand...

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When wiring in had issues with using the power and group for the license plate light and the 3rd brake light wire. It was sending ~9.5 volts when the brake wasn't pressed and ~12 when it was. The ~9.5 was enough to trip the light. We ended up using the license plate positive and ground, then the green wire from the right turn signal, and the yellow from the left. Didn't connect a wire to the 3rd brake light.
 
Sparvy

Sparvy

Active Member
PyroGuy923 said:

Amazon.com: 16" 12 Red LED Trailer Light Bar [Brake + Sequential Turn Signal] [DOT FMVSS 108] [SAE S2I6U2PS] [IP67 Submersible] Running Marker ID Rear Trailer Tail Light Bar for 80" Utility Marine Boat Trailers: Automotive

Buy 16" 12 Red LED Trailer Light Bar [Brake + Sequential Turn Signal] [DOT FMVSS 108] [SAE S2I6U2PS] [IP67 Submersible] Running Marker ID Rear Trailer Tail Light Bar for 80" Utility Marine Boat Trailers: Tail Light Assemblies - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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When wiring in had issues with using the power and group for the license plate light and the 3rd brake light wire. It was sending ~9.5 volts when the brake wasn't pressed and ~12 when it was. The ~9.5 was enough to trip the light. We ended up using the license plate positive and ground, then the green wire from the right turn signal, and the yellow from the left. Didn't connect a wire to the 3rd brake light.
Click to expand...
Great...thanks for the info.
 
PyroGuy923

PyroGuy923

Well-Known Member
Good progress today. Rebuilt the front passenger brake caliper since it was leaking. The inner seal didn't look to be thick enough so fluid was getting by.

Ended up finding and fixing the electrical gremlin. The engine ground by the transmission worked itself loose.


BCM Kick Plate Installed


Firewall Installed




Parking Brake Installed






And mounted the license plate light. Its the plate of my daily, not registered yet)
 
PyroGuy923

PyroGuy923

Well-Known Member
k.rollin said:
The side panels help to reduce the amount of gravel getting thrown into the cabin
Click to expand...
I've got them. Just deciding how I want to attach them since I want to wrap the body panels. I've thought about using rivnuts and someone else mentioned it too. Just figuring out the hole size that would nee to be drilled into the chassis and how much, if any, it would weaken it.
 
Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Someone else on here mentioned using Adel clamps, which I thought was a very good idea, and would have been the route I went if I hadn't already attached mine.
 
k.rollin

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
I attached mine with well nuts and M4 machine screws, thinking that the rubber would help mitigate vibration and seal the holes from water ingress.
 
PyroGuy923

PyroGuy923

Well-Known Member
Ark :D said:
Someone else on here mentioned using Adel clamps, which I thought was a very good idea, and would have been the route I went if I hadn't already attached mine.
Click to expand...
I like that idea. I have a ton of those available and doesn't require hose in the chassis.
 
Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
PyroGuy923 said:
I like that idea. I have a ton of those available and doesn't require hose in the chassis.
Click to expand...
Right. Only downside is, it would not use the pre-existing holes on the side panels, but they're very small anyway and if you're wrapping the panels, they'll be barely noticeable.
 
Desert Sasqwatch

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
PyroGuy923 said:
I've got them. Just deciding how I want to attach them since I want to wrap the body panels. I've thought about using rivnuts and someone else mentioned it too. Just figuring out the hole size that would nee to be drilled into the chassis and how much, if any, it would weaken it.
Click to expand...
Small holes that are not into the welds are typically ok, like the rivet holes drilled by DF. Enlarging these existing holes to place nutserts or other removable fasteners should not pose a problem as long as it is kept at the minimum. 3mm or smaller nutserts would be your best choice if you decide to go with them.
 
ToxicBill

ToxicBill

Well-Known Member
PyroGuy923 said:
Well today didn't go as planned but did make some progress.

Recently the car started to stall when running and occassionally wouldn't start. After doing some digging there was an igition switch recal on the Cobalts. I order a new switch with the intention to swap it out and learn the new key but boy was I wrong. I swapped the ignition switch and the car won't crank even after going through the relearn process multiple times. There is no security lock on the gauge which is odd.

Anywho. Got the headlights (Auxito H4 6500 LED Headlights), mirrors, and trailer light, I mean 3rd brake light, and license plate light all wired in.




Click to expand...
Yeah . . . I'm going to go ahead and copy you on the 3rd brake light - and I'm not even shy about it. Plagiarism is the best form of flattery, right?
 
PyroGuy923

PyroGuy923

Well-Known Member


Sides painted just to keep them from getting nasty. Plus it will match the fiberglass until I can get it all wrapped.


MCO showed up this week. Seats and harnesses mounted. Working on the hood latch then on to sides, fenders, and engine cover then time to get her inspected and registered.











 
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