Rear Toe Link Rack

[KingChuck24]

Any good pictures of this, I searched the forums for a little and couldn't find any? Also any good ones of the rear sway bar, I am 90% sure I got mine in correctly just want to be 100%.

Here is one picture I found,

This one has a bar running across it, would that be one of the steel parts DF provided?

 

[Robinjo]

Yes, it's a steel bar that the DF supplied tie rods and the front tie rod ends mount to. My photos aren't great, but hopefully it helps add context to the one you found already.

Edit: my photos have the bar upside down. Do it the way below in posts #7. I swapped mine to the correct position and it made a huge difference with higher speed bumps. My rear end doesn't pucker as much when hitting bridges or asphalt changes at highway speed now.

 

[KingChuck24]

Sweet thanks, those should help me a lot!

 

[Ross]

The last picture here has some anti-sway bar and toe link footage in the image.

 

[jamesm]

Yes, it's a steel bar that the DF supplied tie rods and the front tie rod ends mount to. My photos aren't great, but hopefully it helps add context to the one you found already.

That toe link bar is upside down. It will have a ton of bump-steer if you leave it this way.

 

[Robinjo]

That toe link bar is upside down. It will have a ton of bump-steer if you leave it this way.

I couldn't get it to mount in any other way. I guess I'll try again.

 

[jamesm]

I couldn't get it to mount in any other way. I guess I'll try again.

This is the correct orientation.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Yes.

 

[Robinjo]

It will have a ton of bump-steer if you leave it this way.

Just curious, what will cause the bump steer if it's upside down? Isn't the unit and hubs still fixed in place regardless of what orientation it is? I'm asking for knowledge and learning.

 

[RCK605]

Bump steer is caused by suspension geometry and the tie rods. The tie rod end is a fixed length and travels on an arc as the wheel moves up and down over bumps. This essentially moves the tie rod end in or out, which then pivots the wheel and changing your alignment.

 

[jamesm]

I'm sure one of the engineers can give a more detailed answer, but the TLDR is when it's upside down, it increases the angle of the tie rod. This causes the wheel to toe in/out as the wheel moves up and down

 

[Gtstorey]

The toe link rod needs to be as centered as possible iwhen the car is at its neutral normal ride height position. That minimizes bumpsteer as it travels above and below the neutral point.

 

[Robinjo]

I'm sure one of the engineers can give a more detailed answer, but the TLDR is when it's upside down, it increases the angle of the tie rod. This causes the wheel to toe in/out as the wheel moves up and down

Nah, this was a good enough description.

 

[Josh's09]

I have gone through the torque spec guide and haven't found the torque for the Toe Link Rod bolts. Does anyone remember the values?

 

[Ross]

Is this the nut you are wanting?

Or maybe this one?

 

[Josh's09]

I need this one (red arrow):

Although, thank you for including the top image, I will need that eventually.

 

[Ross]

So 81 foot pounds is what you need to torque it to.

 

[Scott #321]

A helpful link

Torque specs

Is there a list of all of the torque specs? I have about 100 miles on my goblin and I’d like to go back over and retorque all the bolts to make sure everything is still tight without having to rewatch all the videos.

dfkitcar.com

 

[Richard Thompson]

I need this one (red arrow):

View attachment 38350

Although, thank you for including the top image, I will need that eventually.

I'm also trying to figure out how to get the toe link mounted. I'm having issues finding the bolts. Do you know what size bolt, length, and thread pitch the bolt should have? I may have to buy new ones but I don't know what to buy.

Thanks in advance for the help!